General information and discussion about cultivating fruit-bearing plants, trees, flowers and ornamental plants.
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March 6, 2015 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 67
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Started 30 flowers in a flat..pot or plant in garden?
So I was reading the seed packets of my wife's flowers and saw it said sow directly in bed or indoors. So I started 30 different flowers in a flat 3 days ago. Almost all have come up and I moved them under the grow light.
4 types of zinnia 1 spun gold marigold 1 geisha girl - calendula I'm done with frost it looks...the 10 day outlook is all 75 high low at 50 or above....right where we should be. The plan was to transplant into 4 inch pots then into garden after. Would I be able to just transplant these out of the flat straight into my garden after they get their first true leaves? I'm totally new to flowers...wish I would've just direct sowed them. |
March 6, 2015 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b
Posts: 1,302
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Sure, just baby them a little. Acclimate them before planting. Yeah I try to direct sow as much as I can but doing it indoors is better. You do get better germination.
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March 6, 2015 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: ny
Posts: 1,219
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Interested in your progress because I was thinking about doing some zinnia and petunias for containers this year. I've read about wintersowing and love the no-fuss-no-muss idea. BUT imo, it doesn't really work for petunias as it seems to take too long before they bloom (at least what I've read. Sounded like if I want petunias to be blooming in summer, I woudl have had to start them in January...)
I've DIGRESSED - so I was thinking of using their idea of using recycled container (milk jugs, food trays etc) as mini greenhouses and seeing if I could just germinate them outside when it gets closer to the no-frost date in my area...
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Subirrigated Container gardening (RGGS) in NY, Zone 7! |
March 6, 2015 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b
Posts: 1,302
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Many start hot peppers in January as they take so long to mature. Petunia's are best started indoors for sure. About 10 weeks before -plant out. You have to have lights. I have 5 fixtures that I use, and they are always full. I would plant more inside if I had room. Right now I got 36 peppers, 143 onions, about 15 snap dragons, and 1 orange from a seed. March 15 I will germinate 36 tomato plants. I only have 2 nice lights, so need to get the onions planted as soon as the ground is workable. I'll use a cold frame to protect from light frosts and cold temps. Row cover works too. Under my other lights are overwintered tropicals and such.
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March 6, 2015 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 67
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Sounds good. Will kinda harden them off as they grow and toss em in the garden. Save me a lot of trouble.
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March 6, 2015 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: ny
Posts: 1,219
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Drew, do you find petunias need heat to germinate? Do you recommend potting up or just starting them in 3-inch cups? I only have T8s (daylight deluxe tubes) that I've used successfully for peppers and tomato seedlings. Would the work for petunias? After 10 weeks, how big are these petunia plants?
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Subirrigated Container gardening (RGGS) in NY, Zone 7! |
March 14, 2015 | #7 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b
Posts: 1,302
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Quote:
Yes they need heat, take a long time to germinate, need light to germinate too. The lights should work. I have t8's and t5's. I use them all, as I germinate so many things. This year I did less flowers, and went more to edibles. I concentrated on direct sow flowers this year. Some ones never planted before too. Still learning myself. OK, sow on top of soil, they need some light, but you don't need the light close to germinate. No direct sunlight. Just some light. Heating pad should be around 80F. They can be hard to germinate. If you get lucky about 10 days. Move light closer once they sprout. Not sure of best container to grow them? I myself grow in open flats. But anything will work! I sometimes mix seed with sand to spread easier. But you might cover them with this seed, and you want them on top, lightly pressed in, or misted heavily to sink them in. If they become leggy you can pinch them. Not a bad idea at plant out to pinch. They are frost sensitive. Yet like cool weather. Good luck! Last edited by drew51; March 14, 2015 at 02:55 AM. |
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March 14, 2015 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: southeastern PA
Posts: 760
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Petunias are one of my favorite flowers to grow from seed. I usually start mine
mid Feb., even March will be fine. The seed is tiny, also it's often pelletized. Growth types are "clump" or training, such as the Wave series. If you look at a growing blog, senior-gardening.com, you can find a lot of photos and details on growing petunias. He uses egg cartons to start them initially. I've tried this also but they can dry out quickly; I've come to the conclusion a 6 pack or germination tray is best. I put multiple seeds in one cell as the plants are tiny. I place seed on starter soil, press lightly but not covered. If pelletized, I'll mist so coating dissolves. I usually use a heating pad but a 72-75 degree room is probably sufficient. Seed requires light to germinate, usually, I have fairly quick germination on a pad. I also cover tray with plastic wrap to keep moist while seeds germinate. Grow under the same fluorescent lights used for tomatoes, peppers. The initial plants are exceedingly tiny but seem to grow some everyday! When they're about a half inch across, I'll transplant into individual cells. As they outgrow a 6 pack, they go into 4" diameter plastic pots. Spreading/trailing types will outgrow a 6 pack faster than "clumping" types. I'll usually use the same diluter fertilizer that I use on tomatoes while in cells/pots. When they're in a bed, I'll start using a fertilizer intended for flowers/bloom. Petunia plants are pretty hardy and they're the first to be hardened off and to go outside, freeing up light space. I do pull the flats in if a frost is predicted, though. I usually find the best selection of varieties in catalogs/on-line like Parks, Stokes, Harris Seeds, Swallowtail Seeds, Jung seeds. Some of the "fusables" are very nice (I particularly like "Healing Waters), generally a mix of colors or 2 different types of plants (petunia, bacopa). Also, I generally allow 2 plants to grow together, even trailing types, resulting in a very full display. Well grown (at home) petunias are often much more compact, sturdy, well developed root systems than ones purchased. Also, a fantastic range of colors and styles not always found. If you start early enough, and well fed, the plants will often have comparable blooms to ones at a garden center. If not, they'll quickly catch up and probably be healthier being transplanted just prior to bloom. |
March 14, 2015 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b
Posts: 1,302
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Thanks Greyghost, you have a lot more experience than me. I forgot to mention to cover them. I have hard plastic covers that even have vents. That is what I use.
Funny I germinated some snap dragons and I reused the seed starting soil for my peppers, and now I have some late snapdragons germinating in my pepper pots! At the end of the season I recycle the soil in my raised beds but keep using it for the season. One trick that works for me is adding a tablespoon or two of hydrogen peroxide in the misting water. It does not hurt the seedlings but keeps algae and fungi like damping off fungi at bay. It also kills fungus gnat eggs. Last edited by drew51; March 14, 2015 at 11:53 AM. |
March 14, 2015 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: southeastern PA
Posts: 760
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Drew, I'm glad you mentioned pinching. I don't when set out but later in
the summer, if they start to look a bit ragged, cutting them back hard will promote new vigorous regrowth and blooming. Also, fertilizing during the summer (with a liquid/ crystals in water) helps to keep them going until frost (a very light frost won't hurt them). This year, I'd like to remember to use Osmocote or something similar as well as liquid feedings to keep them looking their best. I've noticed that mall plantings look terrific until frost and I'm wondering if this is the reason why they do. Do you have any experience with fertilizing as a way to keep them looking the same all season? |
March 14, 2015 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b
Posts: 1,302
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I like to use Dynamite instead of Osmocote, it lasts all summer (9 months), and yes that will help keep them looking good! I keep a large shake bottle of osmocote, but fill with dynamite. Best price for a large amount on the net, even better than Amazon. Free postage!
http://www.seedranch.com/Dynamite-Al...-organic-7.htm |
March 15, 2015 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: southeastern PA
Posts: 760
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Thanks, Drew. That looks like a nice site-can't wait to go back and look more!
Darlene |
March 15, 2015 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b
Posts: 1,302
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Dynamite has an excellent NPK ratio (3-1-2), that is what most research says most plants need. A great all around fertilizer. Plus it has calcium and all the trace minerals.
They also make an all organic blend if you wish to stay organic. |
March 20, 2015 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: ny
Posts: 1,219
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Thanks so much guys!! I started some petunias that I bought from HD. If they turn out great, I'll be sending away for more special ones next year!
Greyghost, I especially am grateful for that link to that awesome blog! I am loving it! Drew51, I'm going to have to come back here and re-read all the tips when and if mine germinate and take off. I have my eyes on Zinnias next - is there no need to start them early like Petunias?
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Subirrigated Container gardening (RGGS) in NY, Zone 7! |
March 20, 2015 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 67
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Update for luigiwu. I just transplanted them into the garden like a week or so after sowing and they are doing fine. One of them did disappear tho...who knows.
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