Information and discussion regarding garden diseases, insects and other unwelcome critters.
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August 17, 2015 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 29
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Name this malady - tomato leaf diagnostics needed
OK. So I've spent a bunch of time surfing photos / descriptions - including a Cornell plant diagnostics site and reading up on tomato leaf symptoms and am still really not sure what is going on with several of my tomato plants. Lower older leaves are most affected. Planted in a raised bed so air circulation should not be a problem, unless thinning some foilage is recommended. Two plants exhibit wilting of upper new growth but seem to be holding their own and may be coming back. Have been watering at the base to avoid wetting the leaves. Nearby Zucchini have white mold on upper leaf surfaces. Any suggestions based on the photos and description?
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August 17, 2015 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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My guess is going to be Septoria, but could also bacterial spot. Either way, liquid copper fungicide at the weakest recommended dose( I use it at half of weakest) every 4 days, early in the am, thoroughly on all leaf surfaces and stem down to the soil line should do the trick. Dont forget to trim all infected leaves off, and sterilize your trimmers between plants.
Then go on copper spray preventive every 7-10 days, and after a heavy rain. The wilting ones could be bacterial wilt, which is a bit of bad news. |
August 17, 2015 | #3 |
BANNED FOR LIFE
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 13,333
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Any branch that is growing downward that is infected - cut it off. It's not going to produce a flower or tomato anyway. It is actually called, "Leaf" Why someone called it that - who knows.
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August 17, 2015 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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Clearly you have Septoria Leaf Spot.
Not sure what the wilting is in the second photo but check for broken branches first. The white growth on the top surface of your squash leaves would be Powdery Mildew. It will also be on the bottom of the leaves and will spread to the stems also if left uncontrolled. |
August 17, 2015 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 300
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Reel, all that rain we had in June really upped disease pressure here. Do you grow a lot of plants? I'm west of Albany, about 35 miles. Septoria missed me this year, had it last year, it sucks! Have Early blight this year, I'll take that over Septoria any day. Good luck to you. All hope is not lost, but it will be a battle for you till the end of the season if you decide to fight it.
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August 17, 2015 | #6 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 29
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Quote:
Thanks again for the advice and assistance!
__________________
Must'a left a yellow Summer Squash or green Zucchini out last winter.
The oblong warty yellow / green great tasting beauty in my Avatar is growing from those last year seeds Ain't plants great! |
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August 17, 2015 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Romania/Germany , z 4-6
Posts: 1,582
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Prespraying and morning sun are the most important weapons against septoria. Once you get it doesn't go away even if the weather gets better.
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August 17, 2015 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 29
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The plants are in a new raised bed made this spring. My son built a bed as well at his house a couple of miles away. Didn't intend this as a control, but its kind of the way its working out. The only common things were compost and seasoned wood chips (from our local county compost site) and sand from the local gravel pit as we were building up the new "soil". We mixed in our own compost and topsoil from each of our yards. We mostly planted different plants obtained from different sources but we did share one six pack of tomato plants. His browning leaves showed up first and he pulled the two plants since he had excess plants. Mine stayed looking better longer but I was spraying pretty regularly with compost tea, worm casting tea, a mild borax fish fertilizer mix and etc. I think with my more vigorous flowering and growth it took longer to show up. Anyway, the common denomitator seems to be the farmer's market tomato pack.
Think I will start my own seeds next year and do a good seed pretreatment. And yes Ray - I'm about to give up on battling the zucchini powdery Mildew.
__________________
Must'a left a yellow Summer Squash or green Zucchini out last winter.
The oblong warty yellow / green great tasting beauty in my Avatar is growing from those last year seeds Ain't plants great! Last edited by Reelcharacter; August 17, 2015 at 03:41 PM. |
August 17, 2015 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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Why would you give up battling Powdery Mildew on the zucchini? That's a pretty easy pathogen to control.
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August 17, 2015 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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I agree. The copper spray will work on that too. very easy to control. BTW- I have very successfully gotten completely rid of Septoria in my garden many times, so I know it can be done. Just keep up with the prevention after.
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August 17, 2015 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 29
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Guess I could give the Zukes one more try. Was defeated last year, as soon as the mildew showed up production dropped to nothing no matter what I tried. In part went to brand new soil in a brand new raised bed to help avoid it this year.
__________________
Must'a left a yellow Summer Squash or green Zucchini out last winter.
The oblong warty yellow / green great tasting beauty in my Avatar is growing from those last year seeds Ain't plants great! |
August 17, 2015 | #12 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Quote:
http://tomatoville.com/showthread.ph...t=bleach+spray Bill |
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August 18, 2015 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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Bill, with all due respect, and having tried your bleach spray, I went back to the copper spray, which works the best on mildew, and Septoria. The bleach spray was just too destructive in my garden, and my plants suffered greatly, never fully recovered. I wish to re emphasize that I respect you very much, but I personally will never use the diluted bleach spray again. To everyone reading this, this is only my personal choice.
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August 18, 2015 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 128
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I think this is what my Asian pear has, and has spread to its neighbour Carolina Gold. I'll post pictures when I get home. Both are in fabric pots about two feet apart. The in ground tomatoes are about three yards away. I hope it doesn't spread to them.
Both plants, especially the Carolina Gold, are still productive. Can I let them go till the end of the season? Is it enough to get rid of the soil in the fabric pots at the end of the season to ensure the Septoria doesn't come back? |
August 18, 2015 | #15 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Diego-Tijuana
Posts: 2,598
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Quote:
Sometimes it seems as if Septoria spores are in the air and just decide to say hello to a privileged few. Preventative sprays (daconil, serenade) can really help you manage the episodes. If they're productive let them go, just remove as many of the affected leaves as you can, which will probably give you a palm tree. |
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