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General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.

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Old March 11, 2016   #1
marc108
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Default How to calculate pH adjustments?

What I'm trying to figure out is how much white vinegar to add to 1 gallon of 8.0 pH water to bring the ph to 6.5?

Can someone explain or point me to a calculator of some sort?
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Old March 11, 2016   #2
Cole_Robbie
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Distilled white vinegar usually measures around pH 2.4, with a strength of 5%.

Assuming the line above is correct, at that point I believe we need to do math, which is not exactly my strong point.

Last edited by Cole_Robbie; March 11, 2016 at 07:32 PM.
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Old March 11, 2016   #3
Cole_Robbie
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I remember the "M" thing from high school chemistry....because I never did understand it.

From what I read, everyone's tap water can react a little differently to vinegar, depending on the content of that water. So even if my tap water was the same ph as yours, and I knew the amount that worked for me, your answer might be different. Maybe it has to do with the calcium content of the water.

Just in case anyone is really good at chemistry:

http://www.wolframalpha.com/widget/w...showWarnings=1

http://www.endmemo.com/chem/phcal.php
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Old March 11, 2016   #4
PureHarvest
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Not to be glib, but get a pH meter for liquids.
Exactly what Cole said about different source waters reacting different even if you have a formula.
You could follow a formula, but never really know without a meter.
You can get a good stand alone pH meter for under $100: http://hannainst.com/products/testers/ph-orp.html

Or spend another hundo and get the pH/EC/TDS meter combo: http://hannainst.com/hi9813-6-waterp...vAZhoCuznw_wcB

Also, Marc, are you just watering containers with the 8 water, or making up a nutrient solution with it?
If making a nutrient solution, your 8 pH of the water will go even higher, or lower depending on what your nutrients are. The final solution is what you would test, and then adjust pH if you can get your hands on a meter.

Last edited by PureHarvest; March 11, 2016 at 09:04 PM.
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Old March 11, 2016   #5
PhilaGardener
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I'd add it monitoring with a meter or pH strips (you can find them in an aquarium store), a little bit at a time, until I reached the desired pH. Once you know how much to add, you can get there faster, but because the buffering capacity of your water may vary it is best to check it each time.
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Old March 12, 2016   #6
ilex
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Why?

PH 8 water is not a problem. My soil and water are much more alkaline than that.
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Old March 12, 2016   #7
PureHarvest
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Do you feel that if you adjusted your elements (which would move your pH down), you would see even better growth and yields?
I don't doubt you are producing a good crop with above pH 7. Just wondering to what degree you might be missing some potential?
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Old March 12, 2016   #8
ilex
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No, I think that the idea of below ph 7 is a myth
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Old March 12, 2016   #9
ilex
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Some books say we can't grow orange trees in this region ... but trees don't read many books so they dont know
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Old March 12, 2016   #10
PureHarvest
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Do you grow in containers with soilless mix or in the soil?

What is the CEC and Base Saturation percentages of your soil?

I do not worship at the altar of pH, but am intrigued about your situation. There tends to be a correlating pH based on cation ratios, so I'm wondering what yours are.
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Old March 12, 2016   #11
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ilex, I'm wondering about the fertilizer regimen that works best for you in alkaline conditions.

I discovered last year that my well water is ?? around pH 8. Pretty sure it varies year to year, but continuing alkaline for now. I think over a season it pushes the pH up in my containers.

I guess it also depends what is causing the alkalinity. In my case it is manganese. If it's potassium or calcium, it would be different.
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Old March 12, 2016   #12
PureHarvest
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Bower, I think u meant Magnesium

Soil has a buffering capacity to handle different water pH.
Same for soilless mixes as even they are conditioned with calcium and madgnesium from limestone.

So that is why I'm curious about ilex's soil.

Last edited by PureHarvest; March 12, 2016 at 06:21 PM.
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Old March 12, 2016   #13
bower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PureHarvest View Post
Bower, I think u meant Magnesium

.
Not in my water. Manganese is high, it was tested.
Magnesium, well that would make em green!
And yes I'm sure the water is alkaline. Manganese is a 2+ ion too.
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Old March 12, 2016   #14
ilex
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In soil, heavy clay, calcium, lots of CaCO3, ph 8.5, water is higher. My father said around 9, I need to check. As I basically only fertilize with manure I haven't paid much attention. It's what I have and I don't need to tweek fertilizers.

Only tomatoes that complaint are some from wild boar farm.
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Old March 12, 2016   #15
Dutch
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Ilex I think the key to your success is in the mycorrhizae in your soil. Mycorrhizae that form a symbiotic with plants roots can greatly aid their ability to acquire the nutrients they need to grow, even when the ph is far from ideal. Raybo (rnewste) documented this in his Earth-Tainters several years ago.
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