General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.
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July 23, 2016 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Somis, Ca
Posts: 649
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Changing container tactics...
Being from an athletic background...I tend to over-use the term "I need to get better". But, sometimes it is true...and applies to gardening. I am going to ditch the practice of trellising my container maters on a flat wire panel. I just get too much sunburn mid-season. Next year I am going to strictly cages. The shade the plants can provide is much better than what I am doing now with some of my potted maters. Have you found the same to be true???
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July 23, 2016 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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Works for me I cant grow many tomatoes in direct sun here without the fruit getting sunburn.
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July 23, 2016 | #3 |
BANNED FOR LIFE
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 13,333
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We had sunburn on trellised tomatoes here too.
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July 23, 2016 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pulaski County, Arkansas
Posts: 1,239
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Probably need some shade cloth in that california sunshine esp. when that big ole' sun hangs over the pacific so long this time of year. It's always the West Sun that wrecks havoc, imo.
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July 23, 2016 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Homestead,Everglades City Fl.
Posts: 2,501
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I solved some of my sunscald using smaller cherrys albeit taller plants,then with some smaller determinates intermingled in a simple zig zag ,not straight line,planting placement for my container growths.East exposure on row so the first are the black cherrys when trained at 8ft plus will shade selected plants downstream.
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KURT |
July 23, 2016 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 6a - NE Tennessee
Posts: 4,538
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I keep the "el-cheapo" round cages on most of my container tomatoes. But, because of the heavy wind I get in thunderstorms, I also set a few containers close together and then sink a metal "T" pole nearby. I have to tie the cages to the "T" pole to keep the wind from destroying the whole crop.
Being close to the large ridge nearby, and then the house is on what is really rising ground, those micro-bursts seem to accelerate as they get here and I get wind speeds of 70 and above quite frequently. Even the Celebrity that is in between the garage doors is tied to the wood in the door frame to keep it from being picked up and thrown into the back yard. DSCF0045.JPG DSCF0046.JPG
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Ted ________________________ Owner & Sole Operator Of The Muddy Bucket Farm and Tomato Ranch |
July 24, 2016 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: N. California
Posts: 701
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I have not tried trellising.
I use the green shade cloth as needed, with most plants in dappled shade by noon. It will be 106 by Wed. Interesting to me how some plants handle the sun/heat better than others. |
July 25, 2016 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Diego-Tijuana
Posts: 2,598
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Sunscald has been inevitable during this season.
I've been playing musical chairs with my containers, using the growth of some to shield others that are somewhat defoliated. It's helped to save fruit. Some varieties can handle direct sun with ease, both plant and fruit. Others have a difficult time with the afternoon sun. The good part about sunscald is you can just cut it off. Although a few weeks ago there was an intense heat wave, and the ones I harvested in the middle of the day felt as if they'd come out of the oven, taste was affected. |
July 25, 2016 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: N. California
Posts: 701
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I was trying to figure out why my tomatoes don't seem to be ripening as fast as others here, and read that "Cooler September temperatures help fruit to ripen because the red tomato pigments, lycopene and carotene, are not produced above 85 degrees F; nor is lycopene below 50 degrees F."
http://farmerfredrant.blogspot.com/2...column-in.html And "Air temperatures above 85 degrees are one of the most common reasons tomatoes don’t ripen as fast as you might expect. When temperatures rise above this level, tomatoes stop making carotene and lycopene pigments, two of the most important and recognized components in the symphony. " https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...97H8ziB_C2ZiIg I've had tomatoes that where sort of white when I thought they got too much sun. That is sunscald, right? What about just staying green? Has anyone had that with high (90+) temps? None of my tomatoes are supposed to be more than 85 dtm, but only three tomatoes, out of nine healthy plants with lots of green of green fruit, have ripened so far. The went outside around May 1st. Last edited by Shrinkrap; July 25, 2016 at 12:41 PM. |
July 25, 2016 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2008
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 1,212
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Cages - plants get too big (far bigger than the biggest Texas Tomato cages) unruly, and very difficult to spray.
I'm in my second year of drop line growing which was inspired by T'ville luminaries Bill in Alabama and Mark in Alaska. I would at least consider that as an alternative if you are changing. In my experience, I'm able to control disease and insects far better with Drop lines. My production is about the same, but, over a longer time. They haven't set as many at once, but the growing season is longer - which is extremely important in Texas where heat shuts down production. Something to consider! Dewayne mater PS I also grow in Raybo's Earthtainers and this year has my most productive year of growing ever by far. I went to them in a pinch one year, but they are hear to stay. |
July 28, 2016 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Somis, Ca
Posts: 649
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thanks for the ideas....truth is: where I live, there are fewer concerns for weather and insects (aphids have been bugging me). Geography always tends to make one persons' challenges different than anothers'.
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