New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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February 22, 2007 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chicago Suburbs
Posts: 306
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Seedstarter Question
Which seedstarter is better to use, the seedstarter with fertilizer or without? Also I was looking at some big bags of "potting mix" and it seemed to be soilless and a lot cheaper. Is there any difference?
LoreD
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February 22, 2007 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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Products people have had success with:
* Pro-Mix (available in 2.2 cu ft compressed block) * Miracle Gro Soilless Seed Starting Mix * Scotts Soilless Seed Starting Mix Using 2/3 Peat and 1/3 Vermiculite is probably OK, if you sift/screen the peat and get rid of all the big coarse chunky pieces. But considering seed starting mix is $3.50 for 10 qts, which I believe will fill two 72 cell flats, I'd just stick with that. The MG and Scotts contain an extremely low amount fertilizer. Just enough for the plants to get to 2-3 sets of true leaves. Some people also have good results with the Jiffy Pellets (not the Jiffy Pots). |
February 22, 2007 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Left Coasty
Posts: 964
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Lore,
From what I have seen, the difference is, in many cases, in the texture of the mix. Potting soil seems to have a coarser texture. Seed mix seems to be screened tighter. I am using a mix that is based on coir this year. I prefer no fertilizer, but, had to accept some as I couldn't get the mix I wanted this year. It also has mychorizae (sp.?) in it, which I am interted in seeinghow things work this year. I look for seed mix just to make things as easy as possible for the seed.
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February 22, 2007 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NY z5
Posts: 1,205
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I've used both the Miracle-Gro Seed Starting Mix and the MG soilless potting mix. The seed-starting mix does have a finer texture than the potting mix, so you don't have sprouts trying to push their way out from under a piece of bark or a big wad of peat moss.
What I did last year was to fill the flats most of the way with the potting mix, tamp it down and place the seeds on top, and then cover them with the finer-textured seed starting mix. I did make sure no seeds were sitting right on top of a big piece of bark, but other than that, the roots could find their way around any minor obstructions on their way down, and the tops didn't have any obstructions on their way up. I think the potting mix may have a little more fertilizer than the seed-starting mix, but it is time-release fertilizer and the plants all did well with it. |
February 22, 2007 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: memphis, tn
Posts: 1
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Bcday, have you had any success with the potting soil topped off with the seed starting mix? I have both coir based products from Gardens Alive. I'd always used them separately in the past, but it had occurred to me that I might try something like that this year.
John |
February 22, 2007 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NY z5
Posts: 1,205
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Potting soil topped off with seed starting mix is what I used last year. I had MG potting soil under the seeds and used MG seed starting mix to cover them. The plants did great.
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February 23, 2007 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chicago Suburbs
Posts: 306
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Thanks everybody. You've been very helpful.
bcday, that is a good idea about the filling the bottom with the cheaper potting mix and then using the seedstarter on the top. I do a lot of seedlings, so I was looking for a way to cut the cost. Hoffmans, when I can find it, is very expensive. I've gotten a lot of good ideas here. LoreD
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