Fusarium ?

[jmsieglaff]

I’ve got this plant, dwarf cherry tomato. I trimmed all these leaves off, not quite sure what it is. Fusarium wilt? Early blight (don’t think so since it lacks lesions). If it is FM, I’m guessing seed borne since I’ve never had FW. But the plant isn’t wilting. I’m very confident it is not nutritient related. Thanks!

[Labradors2]

I am staying tuned because I have this too, also in a compact plant, grown in a 3 gallon container...… Healthy leaves, except for the bright yellow colour!

Linda

[Fred Hempel]

My guess would be early blight

[oakley]

Yikes. What is the variety?
You are always on top of your plants for inspection so this must have happened fast.

I've been trying to keep on top of my grey mold crud somewhat successfully....
definitely not a mold issue so cancel that out. (molds are slow and sneaky)

[b54red]

My guess if you were in the south and the plants were in the ground would be early fusarium symptoms; but with your location and the fact they are in pots which I assume don't have soil in them then maybe it is early blight. Unless you got a plant that was already infected from a store.

Clip off the whole leaf stems with the yellow leaves and spray the plant with Daconil every week for a couple of weeks and see if it slows down or stops. If you are organic then you could try a copper spray but I have not had as much success with it and early blight.

Bill

[jmsieglaff]

Thanks all. You are correct, it is ProMix in the container and the plant was started from seed. The yellowing really did come on very quickly. I have treated all my plants with copper a couple times this year, I will try treating with copper again today, if no luck with that I'll bust out the Daconil (most of the copper would have gotten washed off from rains). It is the Teensy Pink. All yellow leaves were removed.

Oakley I've also been trying to stay on top of gray mold--I find it really impacts the dwarf tomatoes, especially dark and GWR much more than non-dwarfs. I have no clue why.

[ginger2778]

Not early blight, no lesions. Fusarium can get into a pot if it's drain holes touch native soil, but not if you are using a barrier. Looks like Fusarium, but the many rains tell me more likely a wind/rain borne pathogen.
Copper works great on EB, if you use it every 7-10 days, and after a heavy rain, as a preventive.
Copper does get into the internal of leaf cells, so it doesn't all wash out at all, always some stays with each leaf.
I think this is a rain carried fungus, but to be sure, see if the yellowing goes up only 1 side of the plant, also cut a stem lengthwise and look at the vascular tissue. Is it purple or brown? That is Fusarium, one sided yellowing and dark vascular tissue.

[jmsieglaff]

Originally Posted by ginger2778

Not early blight, no lesions. Fusarium can get into a pot if it's drain holes touch native soil, but not if you are using a barrier. Looks like Fusarium, but the many rains tell me more likely a wind/rain borne pathogen.
Copper works great on EB, if you use it every 7-10 days, and after a heavy rain, as a preventive.
Copper does get into the internal of leaf cells, so it doesn't all wash out at all, always some stays with each leaf.
I think this is a rain carried fungus, but to be sure, see if the yellowing goes up only 1 side of the plant, also cut a stem lengthwise and look at the vascular tissue. Is it purple or brown? That is Fusarium, one sided yellowing and dark vascular tissue.

Thanks Marsha, good info on the copper. The pots on are the deck so no contact with soil. The yellowing isn't to a single side and all vascular tissue looks healthy. I'm also thinking some sort of fungal issue. I don't think it's overwatering since all other plants are in the same setup, get the same amount of water, etc. I'll keep an eye on it and report back.

[oakley]

And I'm having the opposite...the dwarfs and micros with thick stems have pulled
through any mold issues.
At the farm, in-ground dwarf projects, have faired better than my usual inderterminates.
(the Catskill farm 130 miles north, different climate, far behind here) ...

...I pulled about 24 plants at the farm a couple week ago. Replaced with back-ups, mostly dwarfs.

Gong up this weekend to see and tend how things handled the drought and heat...

In the city, north of the city in the forest, (makes no sense that i work in NYC and live in the forest)
But I can tend early morning and sunset daily....these get daily attention and doing well.

Farm is pretty much 'land race'...

[AlittleSalt]

Jmsieglaff, It's my first time to see your thread and plants. I wouldn't rule out Fusarium Wilt, but I read all of the replies, and it could be any of those things. I've also read in one of my threads that it could be spider mites.

The best of luck.

[zipcode]

Well, since fusarium is somewhat really unlikely, nutrition is basically all that is left. Could be a toxicity, not necessarily a deficiency (usually related to pH changes, etc). I think it will become clear after a while if it was fusarium or not.

[ginger2778]

I have never had Spider Mites on my tomato plants, but I have had Tomato Russet Mites, and I know it's not those. I don't see any webs or tiny dots of black/red. I think a nutritional deficiency would present uniformly, across for instance, all lower older leaves, or chlorosis on the whole leaf affected, especially at this advanced stage. A toxicity certainly can present like this at least at first, but it will soon be a whole plant thing if it is a toxicity.