General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.
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May 21, 2008 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Abilene, TX zone 7
Posts: 1,478
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Eureka or DUH! moment.
Well, after losing some fruits (about 20 various types) all in earthboxes this year, and some last year the reason finally came to me. Oh yeah, the problem is BER. The boxes run out of water quicker than I had thought, thus causing stress and uneven moisture, etc, thus causing BER. I had attributed the stress to growing to quickly, but had this epiphany last night. Also, the slower growers are not suffering any BER.
So, check HEB about every 2-3 days during rapid growth and heavy fruit set. |
May 21, 2008 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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creister,
Have you considered using the EarthBox Company's Automated Watering System for your HEBs? I've built 26 this year, and the AWS has been a big time saver for me. The added advantage is that the AWS unit keeps the water in the reservoir constant + or- 1/4 inch, so this might help solve your inconsistent moisture situation and help with the BER. For $12.50 per container, this is one of the best investments I have ever made. The AWS in operation: Here is the container "farm" today, with Purple Haze and Brandywine Sudduth leading the pack. Ray |
May 21, 2008 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E
Posts: 5,041
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Looks like were going to have to hurry up and get Ray that machete. Looking great Ray. Ami
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May 21, 2008 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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ami,
Better send a CHAIN SAW!! These plants are adding an inch or two per day. As you can see, several have overgrown the cages, and this is only late May. Well, off to Walmart to buy another 48 cages to use as extensions. Ray |
May 21, 2008 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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creister, I guess you are already using appropriate amounts of dolomitic or pelletized lime?
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[SIZE="3"]I've relaunched my gardening website -- [B]TheUnconventionalTomato.com[/B][/SIZE] * [I][SIZE="1"]*I'm not allowed to post weblinks so you'll have to copy-paste it manually.[/SIZE][/I] |
May 22, 2008 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Abilene, TX zone 7
Posts: 1,478
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Yes, I mixed in 2 cups of lime per the real earthbox instructions. The only other thing that may have caused this, is some of my lime was left from last year, if it is in some of the boxes, but not all, that might be the reason. I really think though, that I let them get too dry (not completely). I will start out with all new lime next year, as it is not overly expensive. Some of lasts years probably absorbed some moisture, which could have made the lime less effective. Live and learn.
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May 22, 2008 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Abilene, TX zone 7
Posts: 1,478
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Forgot to mention, that the BER in the affected plants seems to be diminishing.
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May 22, 2008 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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That's good. Getting my first BER this year. The worst is on a potted Carmen pepper that I think I forgot to put any lime in. I've added some.
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May 24, 2008 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Abilene, TX zone 7
Posts: 1,478
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BER has slowed way down on Stupice and Matina, but had reduced me to about 5 fruit on Azoychka and JD's. I think I have removed about 10 fruits from each of the last two. I hope the worst is done. I still wonder what is the stress on the plants causing this too happen? Maybe that was some rather punny leftover lime.
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May 25, 2008 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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It is hard to imagine lime "going bad" in a bag or box by
itself. There just is nothing there for the calcium compounds to react with, whether it gets wet or not. At most they would just chunk up, which may slow breakdown. Uneven moisture levels or the combination of too much heat and a high-nitrogen growing medium (tends to send too much calcium to new leaves that are growing and transpiring a lot of water) are more likely explanations. You could try pruning all leaves on the bottom 2-3 feet of plants (depending on how big they are) to get some relief. This makes it easier to saturate the leaves that remain with calcium, allowing more of what the plant takes in for the fruit.
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May 26, 2008 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Abilene, TX zone 7
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I used 3 cups tomato tone 4-7-10 per earthbox. 2 plants per box. I am still fighting this, which is very disappointing. I will prune leaves today. I wonder if I should add some lime to the water resivour?
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May 26, 2008 | #12 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
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Quote:
Nutri-cal looking around to see whether there are fast-release calcium supplements for soils around: http://www.nutri-cal.com/qa.htm Looks like one can order it online if none of the local agricultural supply outfits stock it. Not cheap (at least compared to lime), but likely faster acting.
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May 27, 2008 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
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[lime and pH]
If you decide to add some lime to the water reservoir, you might add that much gypsum, too. That would increase the calcium content that you add to the water without raising the pH as much as doubling the lime would.
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May 27, 2008 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
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Could I add just gypsum? Last evening, I went out and trimmed all of my HEBs like you suggested. So far this morning, no new BER victims, but will check again this PM. I also used some Humate as a foliar, which is supposed to help uptake and use of nutrients.
I actually don't mind trimming back the lower foliage, as that helps keep back foliage problems, and will help in fighting the mites when they show up. Interesting to note, that this did all start when the plants really started growing. I am now wondering if this all started when I got too lax on watering. The plants and soil had just enough water to grow some and set fruit. Then I realize they are using water and need more frequent filling up. So the soil is at max moisture, thus releasing more fertilizer, very accelerated growth, and then the dreaded BER. Something to watch next year, and I may even experiment this fall with HEB's. Plant same varieties in two boxes. One with 2 cups tomatotone and one with three. See if BER shows up etc. Dice, thanks for the trimming tip. Makes sense that is should work. |
May 27, 2008 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
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Sure, you can use just gypsum. That will supply plenty of
calcium and not raise pH (nor lower it significantly). Usually container mixes are a little on the low-pH side (probably from the peat that a lot of them use) if you have not added any lime initially or used anything else that raises pH, so a little lime in there is usually fine. I usually mix twice as much gypsum as lime in a container mix, to supply plenty of calcium while keeping my upward pH adjustment of the pH of the mix moderate.
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