Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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October 23, 2012 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Bedford, VA
Posts: 257
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Amending soil in raised bed???
Haven't done anything to this bed over the years besides add some compost so I'm trying this.
Put a layer of old rotten sawdust/horse manure mix about 4-6 inches thick on it the sowed rye in it. We had ample rain and hot weather in the few weeks after so now I have a lush carpet of green about 8 inches tall. My question is should I let this grow thru the winter and try to work it in during early spring or till this in now and sow it with rye again? Here's the bed. |
October 23, 2012 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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Why not just mow it and put the clippings in a black plastic bag or mix with a compost bin?
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Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture |
October 24, 2012 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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What kind of rye? If it is winter rye, it will go more-or-less dormant
in freezing weather, then start growing again in the spring. By the time you are ready to plant next spring, it will be chin high. Usually you want to cut it down as soon as you see flowers in late spring to early summer, so it does not self-seed in your garden (become a weed).
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October 24, 2012 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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You need to till it in now before it can develop the large knots at the base which make it nearly impossible to til in. I made the mistake of letting it grow one winter and had to use a shovel and turn over every inch of the bed by hand then wait a few weeks to allow it to rot before I could start working the soil. It put me way behind on my planting and it was a lot of backbreaking work.
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October 29, 2012 | #5 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Snellville, GA
Posts: 346
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Barry
Quote:
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October 24, 2012 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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Mature winter-rye is hard to work in with a shovel relative to many
other cover crops. I do not bother turning in the top growth when I use it. I just rake that off to the side and save it for mulch. No-till, you are done, the summer heat will kill off the stubble if it has flowered. I have turned the stubble over, along with a layer of leaves on top (with "compost maker", a 4-4-2 organic fertilizer, sprinkled over it to compensate for nitrogen drawdown) in a new bed that I wanted to deepen the tilth in.
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October 25, 2012 | #7 |
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I've tried the sawdust/horse manure a few times with bad luck. Others claim to have experienced very good results with it. I had to add copious amounts of nitrogen to compensate for the nitrogen draw down from the rotting sawdust. When the sawdust finally decomposed, the low nitrogen condition reversed and became an excess nitrogen condition. I don't know if hardwood sawdust and softwood sawdust have the same results. My sawdust was mostly aged pine chips used in horse stalls.
My best results in raised beds has been with pellitized alfalfa sold as horse feed in fifty pound bags. It's fairly inexpensive and mixes easily with the soil in the beds. I apply it generously and the earth worms love it. Ted Last edited by tedln; October 25, 2012 at 01:05 AM. |
October 25, 2012 | #8 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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Quote:
Ferment it first. But before you do that add 1/4 old moldy spoiled hay. (ie 3 parts sawdust manure to 1 part old hay) Basically it is the old concept of the manure pile packed down tight and fermenting anaerobically for a few months. Small scale would be in black plastic lawn bags sealed tight. Then in the spring you have to compost it aerobically a couple weeks before using it. (add air by tumbling or mixing it and "fluffing it up") This will kick it before you apply it to your raised bed so you don't get the nitrogen swings. One way to do effectively the same thing as your pellitized alfalfa is actually grow an alfalfa cover crop and either work it in the soil or mow it and save the clippings in a no till scenario. PS You are not the only one to notice the difficulties with nitrogen in sawdust bedding. It is a VERY tricky thing. So the old hay is a way to level off the extremes.
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Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture Last edited by Redbaron; October 25, 2012 at 01:37 AM. |
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October 25, 2012 | #9 | |
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After a couple of years, I dug most of it out of my beds and replaced it with a good, sandy loam fortified with alfalfa pellets. I don't use cover crops during the winter because I usually have other stuff like lettuce, cabbage, and turnips growing through the winter. I do love winter rye and use it between my beds and as a lawn grass around the property. It really does improve the soil through the years. I also have a large compost pile which has been composting and fermenting for about five years. I have added garden waste, fallen leaves from many trees, lawn clippings and many other organics to it every year. I'm thinking about filling a couple of beds with the compost next spring and see how that works. Ted |
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October 25, 2012 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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One issue with winter rye (cereal rye) is that it flowers
a bit late for winter cover crop use in some long-summer climates. I am usually cutting it a week before it is time to transplant, for example. In some place farther south, it might not even be close to flowering when you get to your average last frost date. In that case, you can still cut the top growth and use it for mulch later, but you need to jump through some extra hoops to keep it from growing back in the summer and becoming a weed instead of a winter cover crop. That could include tilling in the stubble, covering it with newspaper, cardboard, or a stout weedblock, killing it with vinegar or high-concentration hydrogen peroxide (something that acts fast and will not persist in the garden), etc.
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October 25, 2012 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Walla Walla, Washington
Posts: 360
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It sounds like winter rye is more trouble than it is worth. I think I will try some of Peaceful Valley Farm Supplies easy care cover crop blends next year. Or the Nitro Persian Clover. It really needs to be easy to turn under for me, I'm not getting any younger.
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October 25, 2012 | #12 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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Quote:
good support for hairy vetch when the two are mixed together, and it has no trouble surviving winter freezes. According to this chart, http://newfarm.rodaleinstitute.org/f...ll/chart.shtml its main benefits are adding organic matter to the garden or field (biomass), supressing weeds, and recycling nitrogen left over from a summer crop (instead of letting rain leach it down below the root zone). It is not recommended in root-knot-nematode prone areas. Winter peas are reported to work better in Florida, for example. It does a good job of filling clayey soil with roots. When I turned over the stubble in a mostly clay bed where a fir tree had grown for around 100 years before it fell over, the top foot of dirt looked like turning over sod after the winter rye crop. Those roots decay and provide organic matter, worm food, drainage channels, etc. It is a not nitrogen-fixing cover crop, so mixing it with hairy vetch is a good idea. As for Red Baron's suggestion to mow it now and mix the top growth into compost, I never tried that, so I do not know if that will set it back. Figure that if grass is still growing in your area, winter rye will still grow, too.
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-- alias Last edited by dice; October 29, 2012 at 04:29 AM. Reason: typo |
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October 25, 2012 | #13 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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Quote:
Winter rye is a fantastic cover crop. It is a TREMENDOUS soil builder. The fact that it is difficult for some people to turn into the bed seems like an advantage for me. It is awesome as far as I am concerned. But hey, I garden a bit different than most people. I actually love weed growth too! That means all the more organic matter that decomposes when I cover it with paper and mulch! More food for worms.
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Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture |
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October 25, 2012 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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Well tedln,
I can't really say for sure going just by the internet. When it comes to compost and manure, especially that with high sawdust content. I would actually have to see it first hand, dig my hands into it, smell it, get to know it first hand. No way to know if it fermented properly to begin with, without looking for that tangy alcohol smell. No way to know if it "kicked" properly after without digging into it and feeling the heat and smelling the change into a more earthy smell. No way to know if it is done without breaking it up and feeling the texture. But hay, grass clippings etc... mixed in with it can help. But I can tell you this. The concept is to make sure FIRST it ferments, then after, kicks like normal compost. The anaerobic fermenting breaks down the cellulose with fungus and yeasts that like wood, the simpler compounds then are digested by different aerobic micro-organisms when you "kick it". Then a whole other set of flora and fauna like worms finish the job when it is ready for the soil. Wood (Sawdust) is notorious for not being easy to "digest". If it was easy all our trees would rot and fall over! But once it does it is very good for the soil. If it is making a "crust" on the top in the garden, then you haven't covered it with hay straw or grass clipping mulch! You definitely need that!
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Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture |
October 25, 2012 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 2,593
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I am going to try the mulched kudzu leaves this year. Easy to get here in Ga (our local park has hired goats to eat it), and I like the idea of getting some good out of kudzu.
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