A garden is only as good as the ground that it's planted in. Discussion forum for the many ways to improve the soil where we plant our gardens.
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February 22, 2013 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Parma, OH
Posts: 147
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Inheriting a clay garden for veggies
Long story here or short story below
[So my dad is handing over his very large garden to me this year. He lives in Parma, OH and it is a very clay garden. My gardening experience is 5 years of container gardening in the San Diego inland desert and one year in the Parma area last year in a small area with 8 tomato plants, some cucurbits and beans in growbeds with a soil-less mix (peat, perlite, pine bark fines.) It was very productive... He loved it and wants me to "fix" his garden. I know nothing about clay and only containers.] short story [My dad wants we to fix his large clay garden and I know nothing about clay since I'm a container gardener.] Grow beds aren't an option here with costs. I have from now until May to make it better. Biggest concerns; 1.Drainage, it has none. A wet spring will kill it for weeks. 2.Fertilizing, I used a lot in my containers and grow beds and I've read clay is a different monster that holds it in. 3.PH levels. I know I need to add a lot of organic material but I'm worried about making the clay more alkaline and adding more npk to the clay. Thanks for any help! |
February 22, 2013 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Texas Coastal Bend
Posts: 3,205
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Hi Kevin, I have come across a growing system that I will use when I expand my container garden here in South TX.
The system was designed by Larry Hall and he calls it the self watering rain gutter grow system. I think this is the ticket to success but other's might not. I think the amount of time and money put into making clay soil good enough to use would be better spent on the above system and you could be using it by the start of spring. Check out Larry Hall on Youtube here http://www.youtube.com/user/larrylhall There is also Square Foot Gardening, starts with brand new mix and is in a 6" deep bed. this design is by Mel Bartholomew and is another way to go. I have containers and I now have two 4x4 beds using Mels Mix and they are doing great. If you compost all you need is your own compost to fill the hole when you remove a plant but start with mels mix in the beginning and I think it is foolproof.
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In the spring at the end of the day you should smell like dirt ~Margaret Atwood~ Last edited by Rockporter; February 22, 2013 at 03:01 AM. |
February 22, 2013 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 610
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I grew up in Parma. My mother who came from the old country always threw the veggie scrapes on the garden, she didn't wait for the scrapes to decompose. Obviously, digging the scraps into the ground would be better
As money may be an issue you will probably need to improve sections at a time. Work one area this year, another next year and so on. Here are things I do, homemade compost coffee grounds, free at some Starbucks alfalfa meal- Wilson's Feed mill on Canal Road composted chicken manure- also from Wilson's rabbit manure- free from a non-gardening friend (be careful not to over use the high nitrogen stuff) if I used straw as a mulch the previous year, I turn it into the ground in the spring I also use shredded paper as mulch and I turn that into the ground in the spring in the fall, rake up all of the fallen leaves and layer over the garden and turn into the ground in the spring Unfortunately, unless money isn't an issue this will be a process, you just have to keep at it year after year. Good luck. |
February 23, 2013 | #4 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Parma, OH
Posts: 147
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February 22, 2013 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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Fix it in 3 months???!!! Sorry but that isn't really possible.
What you could do is improve it enough for a decent crop and start the process of fixing it .... which will probably take at least 3-5 years or more, depending on your skill as a gardener. step 1 Get the soil tested, usually cheaply done through the local extension office or local state run university. step 2 Furrow it for drainage. The furrows don't have to be deep. 6 inches usually is enough. The furrows should be fairly wide though. Use the soil from the furrows to raise the beds slightly. A good rule of thumb is 3-4 feet wide "beds" with at least 2 feet of furrow making a path between beds. Step 3 Cover EVERYTHING, furrows and beds with either 6 layers of newspaper covered with 6 inches of hay/grass clippings, or cardboard covered with 6 inches of hay/grass clippings. Step 4 Wait 3 months and plant in the beds right through the mulch, and ONLY walk in the furrows. At this time make amendments suggested by your soil test. This is an emergency gotta be done in 3 months without any budget fix it for now plan, not to be confused with the many possible long term strategies.
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Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture |
February 22, 2013 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 907
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Here is what I did to convert my clay garden.
1. I found some local horse stables on Craigslist that offer free aged horse manure. If it is a large stable, you can haul as many truck loads as you want, and some places will even load your truck for you. They desperately want to get rid of it. 2. I mixed in as much aged horse manure as I could. 3. Then when I planted tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cucumbers, etc., I would dig a fairly deep (at least 12 ") hole and mix in a lot of the aged horse manure with the clay soil so it was loose. This allows your plants to be in the best possible soil short term while you improve the entire garden long term. It takes longer to plant this way, but it was well worth it. 4. For beans, peas, etc., I would dig a row instead of a hole and use the method from point 3 above. It works well as long as you have the patience to put more effort into the planting process. Do this for 3 or 4 years, and you will be amazed at what your garden soil will become. Also mulching with straw and adding other types of compost (grass clippings, composted leaves, veggie scraps, etc.) will speed up the process. I primarily focused on the horse manure because it was available in large quantities for free. |
March 24, 2013 | #7 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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Quote:
Within a year I had gorgeous, sturdy pasture, which I never even seeded, my planted trees were thriving and a nice, raised "berm" garden. I planted the trees on manure " berms, too. |
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March 24, 2013 | #8 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: northern new jersey
Posts: 683
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February 22, 2013 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2008
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 1,212
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The only way to fix it in 3 months is to remove a substantial portion of the clay and rebuild the beds out of good growing media. I did that and dug down 24-30 inches and removed that clay, had a truck load of a good composted soil delivered, and then hand tilled in the material mixing in some of the remaining clay in the bottom 6 inches or so. A little clay has some nice properties like holding water.
Barring a complete redo, one additional item I would consider is a product called expanded shale. It will till in with the clay and help break it down over time, especially if you add lots and lots of good materials like others have mentioned above me. Good luck. Dewayne mater |
February 22, 2013 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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Good point Mark0820!
If kevn357 can get aged horse manure for free, then by all means! Get as much as you can! That will speed up the process a lot. I mentioned my quick fix solution based on kevn357 stating costs were a primary factor in preventing beds. But since free is free and you can't get any cheaper than that unless they actually delivered it free too! That is obviously an option and a good one! Now if it was ME, I wouldn't even do anything but cover the whole thing in cardboard and manure topped with mulch in a lasagna style. Problem is that takes longer than 3 months to work. Drainage would be an issue that lazy ol me would live with a couple years until the soil mended. But kevn357 sounds young and strong so he should be able to make raised beds without all the fancy square boards and such. Just hilled up kinda like potatoes. Then mulch (and manure if he can find free like you did) The idea is to provide drainage THIS YEAR, and worms do take some time to dig all those drainage holes! Those little buggars work hard, they really do! But 3 months isn't time enough, especially since most of them are probably hibernating or sleeping or whatever they do in winter! You are right Dewayne mater but he said costs made that not an option.
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Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture |
February 23, 2013 | #11 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Parma, OH
Posts: 147
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Quote:
Drainage is the key for this year. Horse manure? I'm not so sure I want to grow plants in clay plus fresh horse dung. Sounds like 10 foot nitrogen plants with no fruit? I can get Alpalca manure though. I like the lasagna style approach though. I need to either drain or absorb. |
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February 23, 2013 | #12 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 907
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Quote:
http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/grd/3587966875.html It is very light and has a texture similar to peat moss. When added to clay soil, that is what makes the soil drain better. Last edited by Mark0820; February 23, 2013 at 05:25 PM. |
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February 24, 2013 | #13 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Parma, OH
Posts: 147
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February 24, 2013 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 907
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It really doesn't matter whether it is horse or cow manure as long as it is aged. I just mentioned horse manure because that is all I can find for free on Craigslist in the Cincinnati area.
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February 22, 2013 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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What kind of clay and what color is it?
Worth |
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