Cannot rotate / raised beds

[mari.beth]

I only have two 4x8 raised beds in which to grow my tomatoes. This past growing season, my plants had blight due to excessive rain (East TN). I saved most of my plants enough to get through the season using the bleach solution recommended by B54Red. I really want to grow heirloom tomatoes in the same beds this year because I do not have anywhere else to grow them. I plan to add compost to my soil, but was wondering what else I could do to the soil to help prevent disease (as much as possible). I would like to stay organic (that was the plan last year, but I resorted to bleach because I was desperate!) Any ideas would be appreciated!

[Salsacharley]

I have read here at T'Ville that Actinovate is a good soil treatment to help resist fungi and creepy bugs. I am going to try it on some of my containers and beds this next season. Also, I got some BiotaMax to try. Here's links to this stuff...

http://www.naturalindustries.com/ret...id=13&Itemid=3

http://www.biotamax.com/ORDER.html

Also, here's another one I am not personally familiar with...

http://www.bioworksinc.com/products/cease.php

My hope is that by treating my existing soil with these additives I won't experience the consequences of not rotating.

Charley

[amideutch]

MB, I have been growing tomatoes in the same bed at work for the last 5 years. Each year at the end of the season I add horse manure and compost. I don't dig it in, I just spread it with a rake to even out which is basically not till.

In the spring I add organic ferts, azomite and some more compost again raking it in lightly. On plant out I make a dip solution containing BiotaMax, Mycogrow Soluable and Actinovate. I then dip the pot in my case CowPots into the solution, let the pot drain back into the dip bucket and plant. When I'm done I pour whats left in the bucket onto the base of each newly planted plant and thats it.

During the course of the season I spray my plants regularly with Actinovate and EXEL LG. I also use Azoxystrobin which is expensive and hard to come by in the States. You can't wait for disease to develop and then spray but must spray preventively to keep the disease from getting established.

Ami

[mari.beth]

Originally Posted by amideutch

MB, I have been growing tomatoes in the same bed at work for the last 5 years. Each year at the end of the season I add horse manure and compost. I don't dig it in, I just spread it with a rake to even out which is basically not till.

In the spring I add organic ferts, azomite and some more compost again raking it in lightly. On plant out I make a dip solution containing BiotaMax, Mycogrow Soluable and Actinovate. I then dip the pot in my case CowPots into the solution, let the pot drain back into the dip bucket and plant. When I'm done I pour whats left in the bucket onto the base of each newly planted plant and thats it.

During the course of the season I spray my plants regularly with Actinovate and EXEL LG. I also use Azoxystrobin which is expensive and hard to come by in the States. You can't wait for disease to develop and then spray but must spray preventively to keep the disease from getting established.

Ami

Ami, thank you so much for this information! I finally had time to really research all of the things you listed. Since most are fungicides, I am wondering why you use a combination. Do they each protect against one particular fungus/disease? Finally - and no pressure because I know different people are uncomfortable with this - if you would be willing to share amounts, that would be great. I plan to be proactive in preventing issues this year! Thank you so much!!!!

[Salsacharley]

Great info Ami,

Thanks for sharing.

Charley

[amideutch]

MB, when we are talking fungicides there mode of action can be contact, systemic or protectant. They eradicate the disease from within the plant (Systemic) or from the outside of the plant (Contact) or put up a barrier or coating on the outside of the plant (Protectant) not allowing the disease to infect the plant and Daconil is a protectant and this pertains to airborne disease. EXEL LG is a systemic and Actinovate is a biological contact mode of action.

Now for soil borne disease we use the biological's Mycogrow soluable, Actinovate (used for soil and foliar) and Biota Max which work by contact and systemic modes of action plus they they increase nutrient uptake to the plant making for a healthier plant better able to fend off disease.

Prior to planting out my seedlings I make a Dip solution using a 1 tsp of Actionovate, 1 tsp of Mycogrow Soluable and 1/2 tablet of Biota Max to 1-2 gallons of water depending on the number of seedlings you have. I start my seeds in Jump Start peat pellets and after the seedling is 4" to 5" tall I transplant them to 4" CowPots or DotPots which are biodegradeable and when I'm ready for plant out I put the pots in the dip solution, remove and let drain back into the dip bucket and plant. No transplant shock and doesn't make a difference whether it is in the soil or container.

As you said you have to be proactive in disease prevention. Once the plant is infected it is very hard to eradicate. I apply both Actinovate and EXEL LG (Start out using 1/2 Tbls per gallon after the plants are established and later in the season you can go up to 3 Tbls per gallon for the EXEL) together using the instructions from both products. Also add a spreader sticker to the mix like COCO Wet or Black strap molasses which will assure total coverage and adhesion. Molasses you can use 1 Tbls per gallon of mix. I gauge my applications to mainly the weather otherwise apply once every week or two especially early on in the season. As the temps, rain and humidity increase so should your applications. The products mentioned so far are either Bio or Bio-friendly. Later in the season you may want to add Daconil to the regemen when the humidity and temps increase. Daconil is not bio but you can eat the fruits treated with it 1 day after harvest and I suggest you research it prior to using but it is a protectant and will shield your plants from the airborne bad guys. Rain will wash Daconil off and it has to be reapplied and what I would suggest is apply the Actinovate/EXEL LG first and the next day reapply the Daconil.

The only other thing I can suggest if possible is put a roof over your plants heads to keep the plants dry and minimize splash up from the ground. I had an plastic greenhouse at my last house and took the sides off and extended the roof. With those plants I never had disease problems and they produced the most fruit. Hope this helps.

Ami

[drew51]

Ami,

Biota Max says not to use with fungicides, yet you do? As it contains fungi, I can see why you wouldn't want to use with a fungicide. I see actinovate is microbes, OK, i guess that would be OK? Thanks btw for all this cool info, very good! All organic at this point that is cool. I grow fruit trees too and use a lot of other fungicides. i see i can use some of these for my trees too. They are fungal magnets though, you have to use the big guns! I have been having some problems with my trees. Once the fungi are under control i'm going to try and go back to a more organic approach with my trees.

[amideutch]

Biota Max says not to use with fungicides, yet you do?

Negative, only for my plant dip, not as a foliar. Most of the microbes in BM are also in MyoGrow soluable but there are a few wildcards that are not that enhance the mix.

Ami

[drew51]

Originally Posted by amideutch

Negative, only for my plant dip,
Ami

Well that's a positive then! Since the fungicide is not a chemical, it may be OK, but I might change that. Wait a week to add one or the other. Also I discovered with blueberries most mycorrhizal fungi does not contain the species needed for blueberries. I'm not sure what species tomatoes use? Hopefully it is in these products. Tomato Thrive is a product that certainly has the correct fungi, and is cheaper.

Again thanks the info will help many people. I may use Tomato Thrive instead of Mycogrow which a very expensive product. The fungicide in EXCEl LG is in other products. I have to research the alternatives.
I think though this one has more than just the fungicide, so is probably what i will use. I think it can be used against apple scab too, which is good. Multiple uses work for me. I wish i could find the label online. that always helps.

[amideutch]

Also I discovered with blueberries most mycorrhizal fungi does not contain the species needed for blueberries.

EMF or Ericoid Mycorrhizal fungi are the ones needed for your blueberries.

Here is a link to the fungi.com site and their Mycogrow Soluable I have been talking about. Whats listed for the spore mass is everything a vegetable garden should require plus more.

Ami

http://www.fungi.com/product-detail/...uble-1-oz.html

[drew51]

Wow! That product has everything in it! Well except what I need for blueberries! One thing about fungi, is they have a short shelf life, buying small bags directly from the manufacturer is a great idea, thanks for the link! I think i will use that product as it is much more than just mycorrhizal fungi. You really know your stuff, good job! Now if you have a source for my blueberries. All I have been able to find is huge commercial products. meant for seedlings too. i do have three blueberry seedlings coming in the spring, but 50 bucks is steep for one application.

[Dutch]

This is what I use for Blueberry dip. It seems to work pretty good.
http://www.horticulturalalliance.com...&product_id=62
Dutch

[drew51]

Yes, the only product available, but I have 3 plants coming and that is enough to treat 500! These fungi do not live that long. I saw a study where almost all the products had dead spores and such. So you can't really store it either.
Thanks for the link. I'm moving in 5 years and will have to start over. i will be putting in about 15 plants. At that time at least I can use it on more plants.

[amideutch]

drew51 here is a link that might help with your BB's.

http://www.permies.com/t/14396/plant...gi-blueberries

[drew51]

Awesome discussion there. You know I took some rotted wood and put it at the bottom of my raised bed that my blueberries are in. An old German technique. I think I will take some soil from my established plants and use it in the new blueberry planting. Buying the fungi is out of the question, even more expensive in these links, 200 bucks is a little steep! My current bushes are really growing well and may be inoculated?!