Bacterial Spot Fungicide Question Florida

[Imthechuck]

Hello,

I am new to tomatoville and this is my first season growing tomatoes.

I did a few things correct: large pots, tomato tone, decent soil

What I didn't do; mulch... And the splash back of soil which I think caused it. I recently mulched the pots after wandering around these forums.

It appears that I have:

http://nfrec.ifas.ufl.edu/paret/u-sc...rial_spot.html

All of my determinate have flowered/ are flowering and producing tomatoes. I have been removing the bad leaves



I have a few questions: Which fungicide should I use to contain it? Daconil? An organic substitute?

Can you spray when plants are flowering?

Should I spray weekly next season with a fungicide since I live in Zone 10/ South Florida hot/humid; both / ?

[b54red]

I had a good deal of that last season. I alternated spraying with a dilute bleach spray followed by Daconil the next day. A week later I sprayed again with dilute bleach and followed up with a copper fungicide. When the disease was under control I used mainly Daconil and occasionally alternated in a copper fungicide as a prevenatative.

Bill

[carolyn137]

https://www.google.com/#q=bacterial+...mato+treatment

If it's truly Bacterial Spot, then no fungicides will help since they are only effective against diseases caused by fungi, but not bacteria.

There are several good articles in the above link, and about all you can do is use copper or Mancozeb, neither of which are very effective, as the links will tell you.

Carolyn

[Imthechuck]

Originally Posted by carolyn137

https://www.google.com/#q=bacterial+...mato+treatment

If it's truly Bacterial Spot, then no fungicides will help since they are only effective against diseases caused by fungi, but not bacteria.

There are several good articles in the above link, and about all you can do is use copper or Mancozeb, neither of which are very effective, as the links will tell you.

Carolyn

All of a sudden all of tomatoes began developing this and I am unsure of what it is:



I'm going to start from seed next year and not buy the big box store transplants.

Time to plan for next year in South Florida. This forum is great. swc's next year I didn't even know they existed a few months ago.

[parah]

Originally Posted by b54red

I had a good deal of that last season. I alternated spraying with a dilute bleach spray followed by Daconil the next day. A week later I sprayed again with dilute bleach and followed up with a copper fungicide. When the disease was under control I used mainly Daconil and occasionally alternated in a copper fungicide as a prevenatative.

Bill

Your DBS (Dilute Bleach Spray) is a HUGE help. Thanks for sharing your hard won experience. It still makes me cringe to be bleaching my tomato plants, but it works. Plants with no disease show no damage from the spray, but leaves shrivel up on diseased plants... just like you said.

I read through some of your older posts and realized you have spent a lot of time getting the concentration right AND writing posts to share the info.

Thank you, my garden is greener

[b54red]

Originally Posted by parah

Your DBS (Dilute Bleach Spray) is a HUGE help. Thanks for sharing your hard won experience. It still makes me cringe to be bleaching my tomato plants, but it works. Plants with no disease show no damage from the spray, but leaves shrivel up on diseased plants... just like you said.

I read through some of your older posts and realized you have spent a lot of time getting the concentration right AND writing posts to share the info.

Thank you, my garden is greener

You are most welcome. I'm glad it has helped you.

Bill

[Sun City Linda]

Although it does not cause disease, at least not directly, I am one of several former TomatoTone users here. Do a search. Many of us that grow in containers find it a poor choice. Prior to its reformulation years ago it was great. Now, not so much.....

[Imthechuck]

Originally Posted by Sun City Linda

Although it does not cause disease, at least not directly, I am one of several former TomatoTone users here. Do a search. Many of us that grow in containers find it a poor choice. Prior to its reformulation years ago it was great. Now, not so much.....

I have seen fox-farm granular a lot on this forum. Is that the recommended?

I bought flora nova bloom at my local hydro shop a few weeks ago and switched to using that. Tons of blooms on my plants

[amideutch]

Just came across this product and might be worth looking into.

Ami

http://www.tampaagriculturalproducts...agri-mycin-17/

[Hermitian]

Copper ammonium works very well with tomatoes and many other crops. Here is one such product sold in the U.S.:

Monterey Lawn and Garden brand "Liqui-Cop"

[Imthechuck]

Thanks for the help! I treated with liquid copper fungicide and removed the dead leaves. Then began to reapply weekly.

I am going to use some sort of fungicide preventative next year

Now onto the next issue.... Pests, it's starting to get humid down here.... I think I will need to plant my tomatoes in September/October next year

I'm trying captain dead bugs (spinosad)

[ginger2778]

Originally Posted by Imthechuck

Thanks for the help! I treated with liquid copper fungicide and removed the dead leaves. Then began to reapply weekly.

I am going to use some sort of fungicide preventative next year

Now onto the next issue.... Pests, it's starting to get humid down here.... I think I will need to plant my tomatoes in September/October next year

I'm trying captain dead bugs (spinosad)

That's what the rest of us in So Fla do. Most sow seeds in late August or December for a late Oct. or early November plant out. Frost is incredibly rare here. Night in the 40 s does happen a little, but tomatoes can survive those.
If you come to the swap at my house in October, I'll have the plants ready to go. About 120 varieties. ( free )

Marsha