Information and discussion regarding garden diseases, insects and other unwelcome critters.
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March 28, 2014 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Oak Hill, Florida
Posts: 1,781
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What is this on my tomato leaves?
It is spreading like crazy. Started on one plant only we didn't know it was something serious so we just removed the leaves (1 here, 1 there) for the last few weeks. Then a rainy night and a couple of days later about 30 leaves on one plant had it and a few leaves on a couple of other plants. They are grown in homemade containers with miracle grow potting mix, 1 cup of lime and a 2 cup fertilizer strip of 10-10-10. They've been in the container since about Feb 1st (zone 9b) in central florida. Just a week ago we started supplementing with 2 tblspns of Texas Tomato Food about every third fill up since we have a 2 gallon reservoir. The plants were looking amazing (still look good at first glance) and then the leaves started getting this stuff. We sprayed yesterday (when we noticed it) with Serenade and removed all of the affected leaves we could find. The plant that has it the worst has also been dropping blossoms and some have been rotting. It does have about 5 little tomatoes on it but has probably dropped 20 buds or more over the last couple of weeks. Some just drop and some rot. I thought maybe that was because some blooms were on the plant when the weather was still below 50 at night during some nights in February and a few in March.
Here's some pictures of the plants just so you can see the overall status of them. They still look healthy until you look closely. Every time I go look at them I find more infected leaves that I didn't see before so I don't know if it's just spreading that fast or I missed them. I remove infected leaves, bag them, and immediately wash my hands and scissors before going back again. The pictures below were taken before I removed all the bad leaves and you might be able to see them in the pics. Forgot to mention we are at an RV Park on the Intracoastal Waterway in Central Florida. The plants are grouped together in these pictures because the wind was 15-20mph with gusts up to 30 so we had them behind a partial wind break. But they are always in close proximity to each other and only 20 feet away from the salt water. Any suggestions, advice, etc would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Ginny |
March 28, 2014 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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Definitely looks fungal. Has the temperatures been warm there, 65°F or better? I'm thinking Botrytis (Gray Mold)
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March 28, 2014 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: northern new jersey
Posts: 683
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looks like early blight.. I am no pro but, if I were to see anything close to that on my plants this coming season.. I will have a gallon pump application sprayer and mist everything with one part bleach and water. additionally, I want to ask what kind of tomato plants are they? Are they hybrids (disease resistant) are they determinants.
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john Last edited by nnjjohn; March 28, 2014 at 05:53 PM. Reason: wanted to add |
March 28, 2014 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Homestead,Everglades City Fl.
Posts: 2,501
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Try a magnifying glass to see if those white spots are moving.Looks like some kind of critter,mites,aphids.Seems like they are congregating on the veins.
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KURT |
March 28, 2014 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
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I'm not familiar with the diseases you might get in the South, but it looks like the grey mold that tends to favor the dark tomato varieties in my garden. I live in a really humid spot near a large river.
kath |
March 28, 2014 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Oak Hill, Florida
Posts: 1,781
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Thanks everyone for the reply. A fellow Floridian that has lots of experience with growing in similar environment thought it was grey mold too. The spots are not moving. I mixed an 1/8 cup of bleach in a 32 ounce spray bottle and misted all the tomato plants. The plant that has been affected the most is an heirloom. A hybrid plant nearby has a few leaves that finally showed the mold, but it wasn't affected nearly as much. Temps have been in the 70's and even 80's during most days and the 50's and 60's at night. It started on one plant first (hindsight is 20/20) but I didn't realize what is was and it was just a leaf here or there or a blossom that rotted instead of turning into a tomato so I just pinched those off. It is very very very humid here and rains a lot. Once I found out about the bleach spray I wanted to get it on as soon as possible because more rain is coming tonight. We are in an RV Park and the tomato plants looked beautiful (and still do except for the butchering I did on the one plant to remove all the affected leaves) but the winds here are terrible. We are right on the water. Next week we are moving to another spot and will have a place to put the plants that is away from the water and out of the winds.
Thank you again for the replies and so quickly. I will keep you posted as to what happens. From what I read (I googled grey mold and the bleach remedy) I'm expecting the infected leaves to die off from the bleach spray and hoping that the rest of the parts of the plants will recover. Fingers crossed. This is my first year growing anything in 15 years due to hectic work schedule. Ginny |
March 28, 2014 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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Copper fungicide applied every 4 days for 3 times works very well for me. Be super thorough, even douse the stems as well as the upper and undersides of the leaves. I had that this year too, got it conquered. Coincidentally, it happened within a few days of adding a new fertilizer, and I looked at my blackening leaves under 10 times magnification, but really didn't see any spores, just blackening leaves from the outer edges inward. The copper spray did the trick though.
Marsha |
March 28, 2014 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
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Best of luck with the rest of your growing season, Ginny- hope the bleach will solve the problem. Picking off bad leaves and spraying with fungicide, etc. usually helps me stay ahead of it and get fruits from the plant despite the infection.
kath |
March 28, 2014 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Oak Hill, Florida
Posts: 1,781
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Thanks Kath. I ordered Serenade and have had it on hand for a few weeks but I didnt start spraying with it because I thought it was too early. I guess its never too early in hot humid rainy windy weather.
Ginny |
March 28, 2014 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Oak Hill, Florida
Posts: 1,781
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Marsha,
What did the new fertilizer do to make that happen and what does the copper do? Havent researched that yet. So much to learn. Ginny |
March 28, 2014 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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Copper is a fungicide. I think it's actually organic, because it is a simple element. Sulphur works too.
I would try hydrogen peroxide at about 1%. Some people have also reported success against powdery mildew by spraying a milk and water mixture. I think it's 10% milk. Daconil is the chemical route. It is the most commonly used fungicide. From what I read, it is sprayed on many commercial crops as a preventative. |
March 28, 2014 | #12 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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Quote:
I don't know which, but one of the 2 worked! Marsha |
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March 28, 2014 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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I just expanded your picture again, and I think I do see spores, or at least white granules. Could it be salt? Lots of em. Better hit them with fungicide. I like copper spray because it also works on some bacteria too. It is considered organic too. Word of caution, I now use mine at half the strength of the minimum dosage, because evan at normal minimum strength, my plants had stunted leaves from it, but at half as strong, it works really well without the leaf distortion. It took my plants about 3 weeks to outgrow the stunted leaves, so I learned the hard way. Also, you may already know this but only spray early morning or late evening so as not to burn the sprayed leaves in the sun.
Marsha |
March 29, 2014 | #14 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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Quote:
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March 29, 2014 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Oak Hill, Florida
Posts: 1,781
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Marsha,
To the naked eye you cannot see those spores individually but I noticed them in the picture also. I guess it could be salt but I dont think so as I have a picture of two tiny tomatoes from this plant that I took about a month ago. One tomato had those tiny white specks all around it and the other didnt. The one with the specks also had a dark spot on the end and it ended up rotting off. I will post the pictures. I wondered at the time what those spots were. The tomatoes were smaller than a pencil eraser at the the time. Ginny |
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