A garden is only as good as the ground that it's planted in. Discussion forum for the many ways to improve the soil where we plant our gardens.
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August 10, 2014 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Cuyahoga Falls,Ohio
Posts: 818
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Garden failed this year
Well my first year with no till after 15 years of tilling did not go as planned.My tomato plants are stunted and have dropped blossoms due to cool weather.My pepper plants are yellow with poor growth.I never had my soil tested,so I went to a very good garden store and bought a soil test kit.Sent the test to Penn State as this was their test kit.My results were....Soil pH 7.2,Phosphate below optimum,Potash optimum,Magnesium above optimum and calcium above optimum.The recommendations are to apply 0.5 lbs per 100 square feet of Urea and 0-46-0.I'll do this next spring.Don't know what happened.I'm going to stick with no till,hoping next year will be better.
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August 10, 2014 | #2 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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Quote:
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Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture |
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August 10, 2014 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Cuyahoga Falls,Ohio
Posts: 818
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I had a winter cover crop of vetch,alfalfa,yellow clover and winter rye.I mowed it down,added grass clipping and let it set for a few weeks.I then planted into the mulch from that.I have a 6 to 8 inch cover of straw over it.I used Miracle gro for tomato's one time.Then bought Garden Tone and used it twice about 4 weeks apart.But the plants never responded to them.My garden get full sun all day.We had a very wet April and May.That may had some part in this as the garden store I bought the kit from had heard others having the same poor results.
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August 10, 2014 | #4 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Cuyahoga Falls,Ohio
Posts: 818
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Quote:
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August 10, 2014 | #5 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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Quote:
__________________
Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture |
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August 10, 2014 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Cuyahoga Falls,Ohio
Posts: 818
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I had alot of worms.I watered once a week,soil never seemed to dry from the mulch I have on the ground.
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August 10, 2014 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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PH too high, soil too wet, lack of nitrogen too much mulch maybe (if it was compacted) and cool weather all combined to create this disaster.
Maybe. Worth |
August 10, 2014 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Cuyahoga Falls,Ohio
Posts: 818
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I'm thinking that the grass clippings might have used nitrogen from the soil.When I called Penn State,I to thought the ph might have been a little high,but I was told it was fine for tomato and peppers.I always in the past had no problem growing large plants.This is the first time I had a garden fail with little production.With the cover crop I planted,you would of thought the nitrogen level would have been fine in the soil.The grass may have taken longer to break down.I don't know if I should use the digging fork to loosen things next spring without turning over the soil.Or do that this fall.I was thinking of mowing down the mulch and planting another cover crop in mid September.My garden is 12'x16'.Anyone do no till and plant a cover crop here on the forum?
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August 10, 2014 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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It still wouldn't hurt to work on the PH tomatoes like a PH below 7- ideal is 6.5.
The PH of your soil was about 7 times higher than optimum for tomatoes. http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=33542 I am not against no till but one of the things you didn't do this year is till. I am more of a fan of shallow cultivation to mix the dead clippings into the soil. No more than one inch or so deep. After that no more disturbing the soil for the rest of the growing season as this will hurt the very important feeder roots that are on top. Worth Last edited by Worth1; August 10, 2014 at 06:56 PM. |
August 10, 2014 | #10 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Cuyahoga Falls,Ohio
Posts: 818
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August 10, 2014 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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September 4, 2014 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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August 10, 2014 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cheektowaga, NY
Posts: 2,466
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Some years you can do everything right and still get blindsided. I've had better seasons than this one for tomato myself. The season started out great, healthy plants and strong fruit set. I'm still picking plenty from that first run but then the cool wet weather and a very early onset of Septoria took it's toll on many of the plants, stunting and blossom drop. And spider mites showed up early too and added to the destruction.
On the other hand my peppers have been rockin! |
August 10, 2014 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b
Posts: 1,302
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I'm in Michigan, and the spring was slow, but now conditions have been perfect for weeks. Harvest is fantastic. I use raised beds. They are filled with organic matter, each year much of it is used up, so I don't till, but the surface is new every year. I add 2 or 3 inches, but the beds have been shrinking more, so next year I will add 4 or 5 inches of organic matter. usually I use all compost, but I think I will add some garden soil. I need to raise the levels a bit for sure. When I say compost I mean manure, and also peat, the peat keeps the PH down and retains moisture. Plus I always have it on hand for my blueberries. I also add pine bark fines, and old potting soil. I have been doing this for 5 years and results are excellent.
I garden in containers and in ground too. I add compost to all. I change potting soil every 3 years or so. The natural soil is not bad, adding compost, has worked well for me. No cover crops, no tilling. If my soil was low on Phosphate i would add rock phosphate as it will take a few years for it to be used up. Fertilizer will be gone in a NY minute. |
August 10, 2014 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Sunol, CA
Posts: 2,723
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In my experience: No Till = great concept, but impractical most years in most places.
No Till planting with our binding soils was a disaster. Beyond soil structure problems we encountered, for us No Till = No spring gopher kill -- from ripping the field. And the un-anticipated gopher population increase was a disaster. No till may also not work well when a) weed seedbank is not very low, and when b) organic matter is not pretty high. Last edited by Fred Hempel; August 10, 2014 at 11:56 PM. |
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