What tomato does better

Rairdog · January 28, 2015

From my latest research it makes sense to not start plants to early which stresses plants before they go into the ground .

AlittleSalt · January 28, 2015

Not sure what you mean Rairdog? If I had to pick a best tomato, Porter is my best.

Rairdog · January 28, 2015

From reading it seems I stress the plants too much by starting them early and planting them to early. The later plants always seem to catch up and surpass.

JJJessee · January 28, 2015

With the caveat that I only use the deep version of any pot I use if available.
I am going to try a couple of tomatoes and peppers in gallon pots this year though.

Worth1 · January 28, 2015

The poll has no relevance for someone that lives as far south a s I do.

Some years we have no frost.
One year I had an orange Russian plant sprout in a dirt pile at the end of my drive in November.
It lived all winter and ended up being one of my best producers.
From seed start to plant out 6 weeks is a little too long for a tomato plant to be in a 2 inch pot.
At 6 to 8 weeks these plants should be in at least a 4 inch pot if not bigger.
But like I said we have totally different growing conditions here and the sun is stronger.
There are just too many variables to consider.

Worth

Blueaussi · January 28, 2015

The poll puts too much emphasis on size and dates. Some years our last frost is in late February/early March, and some years it's in April. The soil needs to be warm, so taking the soil temperature makes more sense to me than sticking to a date that is an average of many years of data.

I also watch for nighttime temperatures in the 50's before I start moving my main season plants outside to harden off.

Worth1 · January 28, 2015

I just noticed the poll had different sized containers.

Worth

Rairdog · January 28, 2015

I'm just wondering if stressing the plants by letting them get a little root bound or planting them when temps fall below 50 leads to Septoria, Blight and other disease/pests. Last year some of mine starting flowering which seemed to really stress them. It seems smaller and later lead to better plants.

Father'sDaughter · January 28, 2015

I recently read that one should avoid letting the tomatoes get root bound at anytime before planting. I think it was in a post by Fusion_power either here or on another forum.

Personally, I've settled on starting my seeds 9 weeks before plant out which will be a good two weeks after the last frost date for my area. How quickly the seedlings grow during that time will determine what size pot they're in before plant out.

This is what I did the first two years and I had fantastic yields. The past two years I succumbed to the start-them-earlier-get-them-bigger-plant them-earlier temptation. Yields were down by about a third.

Not saying anyone else's results will be the same. Just sharing my experiences.

Cole_Robbie · January 28, 2015

I would think that indeterminates would grow out of whatever stress you put them through.

Also, I've noticed that seedlings transplanted into the ground from a gallon pot into the soil do better than others...when it is very bad soil that I am planting them in. I think most of the roots stay in the space of the original hole. But with good soil, the size of the transplant is not an issue.

Redbaron · January 28, 2015

Last year we went from last frost to a high of over 100 in a week. I try to get my plants in the ground the day after last frost if at all possible, and the size is small. Smaller than 2" typically, but almost never more than 3" But like Worth noted, local conditions vary. Do what works for you in your area.

Cole_Robbie · January 28, 2015

As a side note, pepper plants seem much more susceptible to becoming stunted from being rootbound. I have had a lot of seedlings that stayed in the flats for too long. They turn yellow and stop growing, even when planted in the ground. I have not had that happen with tomatoes.

FarmerShawn · January 28, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redbaron

Last year we went from last frost to a high of over 100 in a week. I try to get my plants in the ground the day after last frost if at all possible, and the size is small. Smaller than 2" typically, but almost never more than 3" But like Worth noted, local conditions vary. Do what works for you in your area.

I like to plant deep, so while I might leave only a couple or thee inches showing after transplanting, the seedling will actually be 8" - 12" or more tall. I have mine in two inch soil blocks, even when they are that tall, and they take right off. I usually figure I am safe if I put them in after Memorial Day, and sometimes I'm right.

Ed of Somis · January 28, 2015

Give the poll creators a break...we don't have to be Philadelphia lawyers here, and dissect this thing into legal jargon. If we were writing a thesis for our masters in Plant Husbandry...maybe it would be a suspect poll. It is a fun poll...if it creates thought and fun...I think it is all good. We might actually learn something here and have fun by accident.

MrsTwigg · January 30, 2015

Without any grow lights indoors to provide supplemental light, I'm leery of starting my tomatoes any earlier than absolutely necessary. Growing them on windowsills as I do, it would also be impractical for me to up-pot the seedlings into anything much larger than the recycled yogurt cups that I used last year. So, by necessity, I'm definitely in the "start 'em late, transplant while still very small" camp. It seemed to work well for me last year, anyway.

Even with better equipment (lights!) and the space to start more seedlings, I still think I'd go this route...I'm intrinsically lazy and can't imagine up-potting seedlings any more than absolutely necessary.

View Poll Results: Which do you think will produce better when put in ground
6 weeks old in 2 in pot 2 weeks after frost	6	22.22%
6 weeks old in 2 in pot 4 weeks after frost	1	3.70%
8 weeks old in 4 in pot 2 weeks after frost	11	40.74%
8 weeks old in 4 in pot 4 weeks after frost	3	11.11%
10 weeks old in 12 in pots after frost	3	11.11%
12 weeks old in 12 in pots after frost	3	11.11%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 27. You may not vote on this poll

January 28, 2015	#1
Rairdog Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2014 Location: Noblesville, IN Posts: 112	What tomato does better From my latest research it makes sense to not start plants to early which stresses plants before they go into the ground . Last edited by Rairdog; January 28, 2015 at 01:35 AM.

January 28, 2015	#11
Redbaron Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 4,488	Last year we went from last frost to a high of over 100 in a week. I try to get my plants in the ground the day after last frost if at all possible, and the size is small. Smaller than 2" typically, but almost never more than 3" But like Worth noted, local conditions vary. Do what works for you in your area. __________________ Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture

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January 28, 2015	#2
AlittleSalt BANNED FOR LIFE Join Date: May 2014 Posts: 13,333	Not sure what you mean Rairdog? If I had to pick a best tomato, Porter is my best.

January 28, 2015	#4
JJJessee Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Abingdon, Va Posts: 184	With the caveat that I only use the deep version of any pot I use if available. I am going to try a couple of tomatoes and peppers in gallon pots this year though.

January 28, 2015	#5
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	The poll has no relevance for someone that lives as far south a s I do. Some years we have no frost. One year I had an orange Russian plant sprout in a dirt pile at the end of my drive in November. It lived all winter and ended up being one of my best producers. From seed start to plant out 6 weeks is a little too long for a tomato plant to be in a 2 inch pot. At 6 to 8 weeks these plants should be in at least a 4 inch pot if not bigger. But like I said we have totally different growing conditions here and the sun is stronger. There are just too many variables to consider. Worth

January 28, 2015	#6
Blueaussi Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: South Carolina Zone 8a Posts: 1,205	The poll puts too much emphasis on size and dates. Some years our last frost is in late February/early March, and some years it's in April. The soil needs to be warm, so taking the soil temperature makes more sense to me than sticking to a date that is an average of many years of data. I also watch for nighttime temperatures in the 50's before I start moving my main season plants outside to harden off.

January 28, 2015	#9
Father'sDaughter Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: MA/NH Border Posts: 4,919	I recently read that one should avoid letting the tomatoes get root bound at anytime before planting. I think it was in a post by Fusion_power either here or on another forum. Personally, I've settled on starting my seeds 9 weeks before plant out which will be a good two weeks after the last frost date for my area. How quickly the seedlings grow during that time will determine what size pot they're in before plant out. This is what I did the first two years and I had fantastic yields. The past two years I succumbed to the start-them-earlier-get-them-bigger-plant them-earlier temptation. Yields were down by about a third. Not saying anyone else's results will be the same. Just sharing my experiences.

January 28, 2015	#10
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	I would think that indeterminates would grow out of whatever stress you put them through. Also, I've noticed that seedlings transplanted into the ground from a gallon pot into the soil do better than others...when it is very bad soil that I am planting them in. I think most of the roots stay in the space of the original hole. But with good soil, the size of the transplant is not an issue.

January 28, 2015	#14
Ed of Somis Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Somis, Ca Posts: 649	Give the poll creators a break...we don't have to be Philadelphia lawyers here, and dissect this thing into legal jargon. If we were writing a thesis for our masters in Plant Husbandry...maybe it would be a suspect poll. It is a fun poll...if it creates thought and fun...I think it is all good. We might actually learn something here and have fun by accident.

January 30, 2015	#15
MrsTwigg Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Maryland Posts: 47	Without any grow lights indoors to provide supplemental light, I'm leery of starting my tomatoes any earlier than absolutely necessary. Growing them on windowsills as I do, it would also be impractical for me to up-pot the seedlings into anything much larger than the recycled yogurt cups that I used last year. So, by necessity, I'm definitely in the "start 'em late, transplant while still very small" camp. It seemed to work well for me last year, anyway. Even with better equipment (lights!) and the space to start more seedlings, I still think I'd go this route...I'm intrinsically lazy and can't imagine up-potting seedlings any more than absolutely necessary.