Seed Starting Tray Pro-Hex

[AlittleSalt]

I bought a bunch of seed trays for my first try at growing from seed in cells. I like the Pro-Hex shape better than the typical rectangular seed cell tray because it was easier to get them out of the cell with all roots and seed starting medium in-tact. It's sold at Walmart and cost a dollar more than the regular shaped seed cell trays. (Sold by the same brand)

The extra dollar is worth it. They'll probably last a couple or three years of planting multiple times per season before needing to be replaced eventually.

Sounds like an infomercial or a boring review. Just the way it worked for me.

[Dutch]

Salt, I tried some of those last year and I plan on only using that kind this year and until something better comes a long. Last year I got the Pro-Hex at Farm And Fleet.
Dutch

[Rairdog]

I thought about using them. I like the option of rotating the square 9 cell around or moving them to different 1020 trays. The hex are one sheet correct? It seems I'm always moving stuff between trays due to temp req., height, water req., light etc...

[Dutch]

The Pro-Hex are made to break apart into two 6x6 halves, but I tape them together so that doesn't happen. The Pro-Hex are approximately two and a half inches deep, while the standard square nine's (3x3) aren't quite two inches deep. That's about a 25% increase in depth.
Dutch

[Worth1]

I'm thinking on the lines of none stick muffin pans.
I have some that have cells that are quite small and it would be a one time buy.
Worth

[Redbaron]

I used the pro hex (bought from Lowes so it seems lots of people carry them) the last 2 years. Work great for me.

[FarmerShawn]

Well, I have to put in another plug (sorry!) for soil blocks. A two inch block supports a tomato seedling just fine until transplant time, the roots are air pruned, I don't have to keep buying new trays and inserts every year, I can shuffle them around at will, there is no transplant shock due to root disturbance, and bottom watering is a cinch. I got some heavy duty web bottomed trays from Johnny's that will last for years. They fit into a standard 1020 tray, and are ideal for bottom watering. I just picked up a two foot square rabbit pen bottom tray from Tractor Supply that holds two trays of blocks for bottom watering with room on the edge for pouring water in. I just add water to the rabbit tray, drop two web bottomed block trays in for a minute or two, and just keep rotating them in and out. As you can probably tell, I am a soil block fan.

[greenthumbomaha]

A tray like that will cost no more than $2 from your local hydro store or garden center. They buy them in bulk and sell individually, passing on some of the savings.No fancy packaging or brand name. Greenhouse Magastore sells a 10 pack for $10. Search for Deep Inserts.

I'm with Rairdog, I find the solid trays hard to work with unless you are growing the same variety for the whole tray. When I go to dump out a cell to repot, several come out and its almost impossible not to mix up the different seedlings. For example, I'm using a tray like that for one variety of onion seedlings. They fall out to a pile but it doesn't matter.

Personally I start seedlings in a tiny plastic seed flat the size of a mini muffin pan. They get potted into the deep inserts when they have their first leaves and a few weeks later into 4 inch pots.

Soil blocks would be my first choice, but you need some good arm muscles to push the soil out. I tried one at a demo and its tough work. I'd pass out if I had to fill a whole tray. All the soil block gardeners laughed when I asked if their soil was sterile. They take it from the garden and add amendments. What is your recipe?

Worth, ugh ugh. No drainage and how would you squeeze the plant out? The muffin pans would make great carry trays though. Were you thinking heat may or oven? You can't take the cook out of Worth.

- Lisa

[FarmerShawn]

I've seen all sorts of recipes for mixing up your own blocking soil, but I purchase and use use a product from Vermont Compost Company called "Fort V." It is a peat and compost-based mix, but has a list of other additives for balance and mineral supplements - all certified organic. I don't generally need to fertilize my seedlings at all - they have plenty in the blocks to keep them going for quite a while. The bottom line for me is that I can be sure that just putting the blocks into my garden is improving the soil there. When I make the blocks, I mix the stuff up almost like mud, so it really doesn't take much effort or pressure to make the blocks. I really make a lot of them, so this year I am looking forward to using the standing model blocker I just bought to speed things up.
I also get a product from Vermont Compost called "Fort Light" which is pretty much the same mix, with some perlite added. That is great for container growing, again, without much need for added fertilization for quite a while because it is compost-based with added supplements. I used it in some Earthboxes last year, and found that it wicked beautifully, and grew some pretty darn nice peppers and dwarf tomatoes. (I don't work for Vermont Compost; I just really like their stuff!)

[luigiwu]

to expand on Worth's idea, I am on the lookout for affordable SILICONE muffin trays that have some depth to them. They make all sorts of muffin and ice trays in silly shapes now but lack the cell depth for a seedling. I've manage to reuse the jiffy cells from years past but...

[AlittleSalt]

The 6X6 break did come in handy yesterday. I numbered the cells with a silver sharpie when I used it for tomatoes, but in this usage the numbers don't mean anything. I planted one 6X6 side with Shasta Daisies (Silver Princess) and the other side has Bachelor Button Blue. Some think of Bachelor Button as extremely invasive. I'm going to plant them in the back 40 as basically, a wildflower.

I'm thinking the split flats will make it easier when planting out.

[Misfit]

I'm using Pro Hex as well... Aji Amarillo are up, waiting on the rest!

-Jimmy