How Early is too early to start seeds?

[My Foot Smells]

In years past, I generally start seeds around the 1st week of February with an anticipated LFD of 04/11 or so. I do have a greenhouse and a light setup inside the house and was disappointed in last year's starts when it came time to drop them in the ground.

I see some on here that have some vigorous plants in similar zone that are robust that must get started earlier or into doping.

Was thinking about jumping on this 01/01/2017, too early?

[PaulF]

I count back ten weeks from anticipated plant in the ground time for tomatoes and two weeks earlier than that for peppers. I begin earlier than I used to by a couple of weeks. The extra time allows for resowing if a variety fails to sprout. I may even go one week earlier for peppers. The really big pepper seedlings did better than ever here.

[jmsieglaff]

I start my tomato seeds about 6-7 weeks before my expected plant-out date. I pot up into 4" squares at first true leaves and move to my cold frame as soon as possible after that (for me that's usually about 2-3 weeks before plant-out date). If I start my tomatoes any earlier they will get too tall and start hitting the cold frame roof.

For peppers a couple years back I switched to starting them quite early and pinching the central growth tip after 3-4 sets of true leaves. By quite early I do about 14-16 weeks before plant out for hot peppers and about 12-14 weeks for sweet peppers. I have been pleased with my pepper production going to this method. The peppers grow under lights until I start hardening them off to UV and go to the cold frame with the tomatoes 2-3 weeks before plant out. My peppers got a bit root bound this year, so I may go to 12-14 for hots and 10-12 weeks for sweets.

[My Foot Smells]

thanks for the replies.

6-7 weeks seems rather light for me, but you probably don't have to worry about extreme heat.

paul that seems in line with my previous methods which has done well but LY root production and stem thickness were lacking despite having an extremely warm march. turbulent spring weather hit after transplant and heavy blight.

I would like to get my transplants about 16" - 20" tall with a stem the size of a broomstick handle. Thinking maybe earlier and slower growth may provide a stubby stem.

[KarenO]

What size pots? I went from using 4 inch nursery pots or solo cups to 6 inch or 1 litre nursery pots and my transplants are huge. Maybe try that.
KarenO

[My Foot Smells]

Thanks Karen. Usually use a 4" square cowpot and direct transplant from there, but I also have 100's of 1-2 gallon black plastic nursery pots (but have not used). Thinking about using the 1-2 gallon pots, planting the tomato seedling from a 2" square start in there and building it up. With the extra time (if I started 01/01) they would probably need the bigger vessel.

I have had mixed results from the solo cup, they get tall but not fat.

[KarenO]

I think you will find it will make a big difference. It costs more in potting medium and takes more space but if that is not an insurmountable obstacle it will give you large heavy seedlings. feed them too.
These big babies are hungry.
KO

[My Foot Smells]

Originally Posted by KarenO

I think you will find it will make a big difference. It costs more in potting medium and takes more space but if that is not an insurmountable obstacle it will give you large heavy seedlings. feed them too.
These big babies are hungry.
KO

yes, LY when Wal-Mart had there big clearance sale, I loaded up pounds of food and fert and also befriended the nature care center manager. sold me 1 cu ft potting mix (mircle grow) for 1$ each and 2 cu ft for $3. I prolly got 50 cu ft of potting mix stacked in a pile.

[AlittleSalt]

For us, the LFD is in mid-March (Even though I've seen it happen May 2 unofficially) I'm starting tomato, pepper, and eggplant seeds January first. If our MMMM mailer shows up after that - I'll start those seeds when we get them.

Last year, I started them on January 17th, but that was due to health problems.

[My Foot Smells]

Mid-March provides plenty of opportunity to start hardening them off and can even stay outside for several days. Often times the LFD is only one day where we get a "dipper." LY the LFD was in March, but often times I will set the seeding in the place of destination during final stages, but won't dig them in until I can get a 10 day forecast from the anticipated LFD. I used to live in 7A, but it changed to 7B. Weird, I know.

[Merediana]

2016 I started them almost exactly 3 months before plant out date in mid may.
With enough space and light - which you seem to have - it is possible, just more work. Handling the larger plants can be annoying and you might already need some support for them (I experienced that only with some varieties that grow especially fast).

I've heard some argue that it doesn't really give you an advantage, they claim that the seedlings started a few weeks later will be healthier and catch up but I think that is because most german tomato growers don't seem to use any lights, just sunlight, and that isn't strong enough to avoid leggy seedlings till mid march.

[My Foot Smells]

Originally Posted by Merediana

2016 I started them almost exactly 3 months before plant out date in mid may.
With enough space and light - which you seem to have - it is possible, just more work. Handling the larger plants can be annoying and you might already need some support for them (I experienced that only with some varieties that grow especially fast).

I've heard some argue that it doesn't really give you an advantage, they claim that the seedlings started a few weeks later will be healthier and catch up but I think that is because most german tomato growers don't seem to use any lights, just sunlight, and that isn't strong enough to avoid leggy seedlings till mid march.

Valid points. thanks.

[Cole_Robbie]

Planning for market sales is even harder than planning for a garden. My plant-selling season is April and May. People will want to buy plants on the first sunny 80-degree market day of the season....which could occur at any time during that two-month window.

Last year it was 80 in April, so everyone planted their gardens. Then it was cold and wet during May, so the plants just sat there without growing. In other springs, I can barely sell a tomato plant in April, because it's too cold.

Regarding the size of plants transplanted into the garden, I get a lot of customers coming back to tell me that the plants they bought from me in 4" pots are growing faster than any other plants purchased elsewhere. I'd like to claim some sort of magic touch, but I think it is the Osmocote doing the work, and not actual magic.

[slugworth]

I picked the 1st 4th of july hybrid and planted the seeds from it the same day (july 12)
So it's never too early for me.I like to take advantage of the summer heat for starting seeds and cloning.Have green tomatoes on them now,in a south facing window.A few clones from the summer are like 3 feet tall.Once the plants are established they are less finicky about light conditions.

[My Foot Smells]

I could see where plant sales would be a different scenario and also keeping cost down. I went to cowpots and those can get pricey.

I do not have enough inside space for year round, but if I ever hit a lick and build my dream house it's on. The gh does great in winter, early spring and late fall, but summer is a sauna.