Seed starting for fall tomatoes: Questions

[jenn_sc]

Despite my long growing season here in S.C., I have never attempted a separate fall crop of tomatoes. Usually by June or July I'm worn out with the upkeep of my garden and don't get around to it. This year I plan to try to start a fall crop. Since it's my first time, I have a few questions...

First of all, when should a zone 8 grower start fall seeds? Our first frost typically doesn't happen until early/mid November. I'm thinking late June but I'm not sure. Any opinions?

Also, should I try to limit myself to early varieties? Could I squeeze in a few later ones? I think the only early seeds I have are Stupice. Most of the varieties in my collection are late season ones, although I could always order something new Any excuse to add to the collection is a good thing

And here's my last question: how do you make room for fall crops? Do you set aside planting space alongside the spring tomatoes? I ask because I've used most of my available growing space outside already. I may have to rely on the fact that some of my plants will probably be worn out and/or diseased by late summer (so I can pull them without guilt) But if I get lucky and some of my spring toms are still truckin' along, what should I do? Maybe grow them in containers?

I'd like to know more about how other gardeners are managing fall seed starting. Any advice, tips, ideas, or suggestions will be most appreciated!!!

Jennifer

[creister]

I have always read that you would want to transplant about 90 days before your 1st frost. Count back 6 to 8 weeks from then, and that is when you would start your seed. I even start mine and grow them outside, which eliminates the hardening off. Just make sure you give them plenty of water. I do start them on the east side of the house that gets sun from morning until 100 pm. I would plant some early, midseason, and you could try late season as well. I plan on pulling out some of the spring plants to make room for the new plants. I just pull out the worst looking or most unproductive plants. In July and August is when I have a war with the spider mites. I have found it is easier to beat them back from the newer plants.

[Suze]

Originally Posted by jenn_sc

Despite my long growing season here in S.C., I have never attempted a separate fall crop of tomatoes. Usually by June or July I'm worn out with the upkeep of my garden and don't get around to it. This year I plan to try to start a fall crop. Since it's my first time, I have a few questions...

First of all, when should a zone 8 grower start fall seeds? Our first frost typically doesn't happen until early/mid November. I'm thinking late June but I'm not sure. Any opinions?

Also, should I try to limit myself to early varieties? Could I squeeze in a few later ones? I think the only early seeds I have are Stupice. Most of the varieties in my collection are late season ones, although I could always order something new Any excuse to add to the collection is a good thing

And here's my last question: how do you make room for fall crops? Do you set aside planting space alongside the spring tomatoes? I ask because I've used most of my available growing space outside already. I may have to rely on the fact that some of my plants will probably be worn out and/or diseased by late summer (so I can pull them without guilt) But if I get lucky and some of my spring toms are still truckin' along, what should I do? Maybe grow them in containers?

I'd like to know more about how other gardeners are managing fall seed starting. Any advice, tips, ideas, or suggestions will be most appreciated!!!

Where you're at -- probably around the second week of June.

Consider starting them inside under lights (it seems I get much better results this way -- outside, the seedlings tend to get lanky w/poor root development because of the heat), then bringing them outside to harden off after about 5-6 weeks. Take a couple of weeks to very carefully do this.

One week to germ
5-6 weeks inside
Two weeks hardening off
Plant around second-third week of Aug
Hope fruit set starts occurring around mid Sept (early Sept looks potentially iffy for that in your area)

Insect and disease pressure will be much worse than in the spring, so keep that in mind when hardening off your seedlings, and also in terms of pest/disease mgt in general. Know what the problems are in your area and be proactive.

I looked at some historical (CF6) weather data for your area, and while I think it is possible to grow a fall crop, you have a short window for fruit set. So I would suggest going with early/"heatsetter"/cherry types for the most part.

Container growing is a great idea for fall crops, and even though I now have all these raised beds since I moved (I used to grow almost everything in containers), I plan on growing many of my fall plants in containers.

It allows me to protect them in the event of an early frost. Also, the angle and the intensity of the sun changes drastically in Oct. You'll want your plants in the absolute best sun area you can find in your yard. In short, container planting allows you to move them around if needed.

Some varieties you might want to include:

Lime Green Salad
Orange-1 (heat setter, good size for containers)
Kimberly/Stupice/Matina
Jaune Flammee
SFT (not particularly early, but sets well in heat)
any cherry type

Just a few off of the top of my head.

[Rena]

In the past I have taken old and tired plants chopped them down to a foot or so. Give em some food and off they go again. It is a lazy way but I does work! I had an Anzoyka that I did this 3 times in a season and it kept just coming back. You can also take cuttings from a plant.

[coolbythecoast]

You're in luck. In my experience Stupice is an excellent fall tomato.

Gary

[maryinoregon]

If you don't get to start some fall tomatoes, maybe you could go to a garden store and see what they have when it's time. Or call them now and ask what does well in your area for a fall tomato. Hope your first fall effort is a succcess.