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General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.

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Old August 22, 2010   #1
SaberTooth
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Default My first earthtainer

I finished my first one today and followed the directions with one exception. I used the heavy duty Gamos wire round baskets but the pair I used had three legs instead of the four shown in the instructions. Will these be sturdy enough to hold without bending?
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Old August 22, 2010   #2
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Saber,

Sure, the 3 leg ones will work - - but may not be sturdy enough when adding the (optional) cage extension, and the plant loads up with fruit. If you are planning on growing smaller to mid-size varieties - no worries!!

Raybo
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Old August 23, 2010   #3
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Default Variety Question

Thanks for your reply Raybo. If I do not add the optional second set of cages and stick to a single set of 54", can I grow any of the following varieties without fear?

Aussie
Box Car Willie
Kellog's Breakfast
Mexico
German Head
Red Brandywine
Druzba
Eva's Purple Ball
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Old August 23, 2010   #4
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Saber,

Here was my Druzba on the far left:



Kellogs and Brandywine will also grow to this height.

You will definitely need cage extensions - - or do a lot of heavy pruning.

Raybo
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Old August 24, 2010   #5
dice
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Box Car Willie and Mexico get big, too.
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Old August 24, 2010   #6
rnewste
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Saber,

In further thinking through the mechanics (and reflecting on younger days building with my Erector Set), I think you will be fine adding cage extensions. With the wire rope clip holding the 2 base cages together at hoopset #3, you will still have a pretty rugged structure now comprised of 6 supporting legs, vs. the 8 legs in the original design.

You may get some twisting in heavy winds, but if you are not in a high wind zone you should be fine. I would rather see you fully grow out the plants toward the sky, than cut them back at the height of the base cage.

Keep us posted on how they do.

Raybo
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Old August 25, 2010   #7
SaberTooth
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Default Thanks Raybo

Thanks for your additional post. Those are some nice looking plants in your picture.

I did also have another question for you. In your instructions, you recommend Perlite in the soil mix. Is this better, same or no difference to Vermiculite? I've heard Perlite has the tendency to rise in the container when watered
and I was wondering if you think Perlite has an advantage.
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Old August 26, 2010   #8
dice
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Vermiculite soaks up water, compresses more, and breaks
down to fine particles. In texture, air space maintenance,
water holding capacity, and longevity, it is more like an organic
material in the container mix than perlite, which acts more
like a very light form of rock.

Alternatives would be pumice, lava sand, rice hulls, etc. (Rice
hulls do not last as long as perlite or some kind of rock, but
they do not decay quickly.) A lot of recipes for making your own
container mix recommend coarse builder's sand as an
ingredient. Most of what I have seen bagged is not as large
as the particles in a bag of perlite from a garden center or
nursery.
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Old August 26, 2010   #9
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Thank you. Perlite it is.
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Old September 5, 2010   #10
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A lot of the pelite will in fact float to the surface, as it is lighter than water. In it's vertical motion it will leave little air pockets behind. These help the soil by creating spaces for air and water to get trapped. Plants thrive when the soil has ample pockets for air and water to remain.
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