container tomatoes

[mdvpc]

I wanted to start a thread for us container growers-the special needs and problems growing in containers. I recently had a problem with the plants doing poorly from salt buildup-they are in my greenhouse in 5 gallon grow bags. When I figured it out, I flushed the containers 3 times heavily, and that seems to have stopped the problem. I didnt get any real splitting or ber as a result of the flushing, so I am thankful for that. I ordered clearex, which is supposed to help with salt buildup in the containers affecting the plants and fruit.

What other problems/special growing conditions have you encountered?

Also, what fertilizer or amendments do you use? I use tomato-tone from Espoma for a granular-type fert which is 4-7-10 with all micro and macro nutrients. For foliar, I use Monty's Joy Juice 8-16-8 and later on 2-15-15 along with kelp.

[markferon]

There is always the bane of containers toms root bounding because the containers are too small.

[hedwarr]

I grow strictly in containers and thus far no problems. 5 gallon grow bags seem awfully small. All my pots are 15 gal. or bigger.

[akgardengirl]

I am very interested in the container subject as I grow all my tomatoes using Earthboxes and self-watering containers. Last year I used Whitney Farms "Life-Link" for tomatoes/vegetables, mixing it in with the Pro-Mix and compost. Everything did well except for the cherries, which came down with black, slimy mold at the end of the season. What was that? I attributed it to all the rain and not enough sun. The whole cherry crop was wasted. It is not warm enough to plant in the soil and the greenhouse doesn't get the sun anymore due to the neighbor's trees.
Sue

[akgardengirl]

The black mold was on the foliage but then after picking all the cherries to bring indoors, they developed (real soon) white fungus, like the type that gets on sprouts. It was a mess!
Sue

[Mantis]

To over come the root binding problem, I cut large holes of about 2 inch diameter in the bottom of the pots using a hole cutting attachment. This is only a help if the pots are sitting on soil of course.

[mdvpc]

Good information so far, lets keep this thread alive.

Mark-that is the problem with containers, but I really have no choice.

Hedwarr-I only grow in 5 gallon grow bags in the winter in my greenhouse. During the summer and fall, I use 15 gallon and put 2 plants in each container.

Sue-that has to be a fungus-were you using anything like daconil?

Mantis-I dont do that, but know you do it successfully-I do see roots growing out of the holes in the bottom,but I dont do it on purpose.

[nctomatoman]

I guess I need to determine the volume of my containers - they run from 12 by 12 inches (really not big enough) to 24 inches across by 18 inches deep (they do very well in this size). I use Fafard 3B or MetroMix 360 cut with composted bagged cow manure or composted leaves - at planting, a few tbsp of pelletized lime, and pelletized slow release special tomato fertilizer I get at Home Depot - I used to feed monthly, but because it is so hot and I have to water so much, am feeding more frequently.

The biggest surprise is that despite bleaching the pots and using fresh potting mix each year, I end up losing plants over the season to what appears to be Fusarium. Thus, I think that an insect vector is possible (bugs chewing on infected plants in the garden, then coming to the potted plants).

I've been pleased growing all sorts of tomatoes in containers - a few surprised me by thriving from early May to early November (Green Giant, Variegated, June Pink, Mexico Midget especially). When compared with soil grown tomatoes (my garden is not as sunny), the pot grown (on concrete in my driveway, which is get more sun) come on more quickly - fruit size is equivalent, as if flavor.

Mike - any comments on what I do to lead to improved performance will be welcome. I was pondering setting up drip irrigation, since we do spend many hours watering our pots each summer.

[Suze]

Mike - any comments on what I do to lead to improved performance will be welcome. I was pondering setting up drip irrigation, since we do spend many hours watering our pots each summer.

Not Mike , but I have some ideas in terms of what has worked well for me:

A 2-3 inch layer of wheat straw mulch has cut my watering down at least 60-70% (yes, even if that means 2-3 inches less soil to make room for the straw). And it's made a big difference on fruit cracking as well.

I think a 12 by 12 is good for a dwarf or a compact det, but I really like to go larger for anything else. Your 24 by 18 sounds about perfect.

Also, lighter colored containers work soooo much better for me here (*sigh* I know the nursery pots are free -- but dark).

[spudleafwillie]

I've been growing tomatoes in containers here in sw NM
since 1990 in all sizes of pots (2-26gal) of all colors
(white, terra cotta, green, and black).

I mulch the tops with crushed pecan shells 2-3"deep which I get from a local pecan shelling plant 2-3 cubic yards at a time. All plant containers are automatically drip irrigated at 6am and 6pm for 30 minutes and get 1 gallon of goat manure tea once a week.

I put 1plant/2gal pot, 3plants/5gal, 4plants/10 gal, and 5-6 plants/20 0r 26 gal and a 7-10 foot bamboo pole in the center of each pot to support the vines. In the smaller, 2 and 5 gallon pots the overall height of the plant is reduced by 2-3 feet But thats OK, when my Galinas and Kimberly and other spudleaf varieties get to 8-10 ft in the 10gal+containers, I need a stepladder to pick the fruit later in the year

I never have any problem with the soil in the pots getting too hot, even when our day temps get as high as 108F. In fact I think it helps the plants to stay warmer at night when our night temps get into the high 50's, Of course there is no fruit set due to sterile pollen at 95F or above and no fruit set below 55F at night.

If you do have a problem with the darker pots, just whitewash the outside of the pots with lime as you do with young trees to prevent sunburn.

Good growing, Spud

[jwr6404]

I grow in containers only. I built a large well fenced,raised garden which my wife confiscated immediately for her Asian onions and peppers. She does allow me to walk by it when I mow the lawn and to look at it from the reading room window. Thats the end of my tale of woe. I currently have 15 larger pots that I use for tomatos,2ea 17gal,3ea 30gal and the rest are 22-27 gallon. The pots are filled with Supersoil with Alfafa added.
The pots set on stone,1.25" river rock. When I purchased my home in 1988 I had 43 large fir trees in my yard,some were 3ft+ in diameter. After removing them I landscaped my middle yard in stone. I think the Tomatos benefit from the heat being reflected off of the stone. I read a lot about various diseases but I have not,in my short tomato life, experienced diseases. The only problems I have encountered is selecting varieties adaptable to a shorter growing season an cool nights here in the Puget Sound area of Washington state. We get 14-16 hrs of sunlight,that helps.

Don't know if its a benefit but I also raise Mason Bees for my 20 fruit trees. I have too many bees. If anyone would like I will be glad to give them some. Just provide an address after reading about Mason Bees online to see if they help. "knoxcellars.com" is a good place to start

[mdvpc]

Craig-I really think you would benefit from a drip system-you can get them at home depot and do it yourself if you are handy like that. What it does is make sure that your watering is consistent from day to day-and if you want to go out of town, or whatever, you dont have to worry about anything.

The other thing that I do is make sure I have some worms in my containers-I put one or two in at the beginning of the season and by the end, there are about 50-so they are keeping things light and feeding the plants with their castings.

I use a mulch that is recycled paper that is colored and it works real good. Cant remember the name right now cause my wife and I are out of town. I use about 2 " as a mulch.

Spud-Had not thought of the pecan shells, but of course, I could get my hands on them also since I am also in pecan-growing country. Do you use any other fert or foliar in the containers? I used to plant 6 plants in a 1/2 gallon whiskey barrel, but have cut back when I moved to 15 gallon-do you do that for shade, and do you find that the harvest is affected?

JWR-I believe the bees really help but you have to be careful if you are saving seed to keep the variety pure. Do you use anything else for fert other than the alfalfa?

[jwr6404]

Michael
I do not save seeds as I have never been successful at getting any production from seeds. I buy plants only. Am going to try to grow some Pixie Peach from seeds that were given to me. As usual I probably will not be successful. In my earlier post I failed to mention that I built cages for each of my pots that are 6" larger,in diameter, than the pot. I cover these cages with 6mil plastic using 4"electrical ties effectively creating a greenhouse for each pot as we have cool nights until 1 july.

[mdvpc]

jwr-sounds like you have a good setup-where do you get your plants? Darrel and Laurel have a lot of heirlooms plants that they ship. Michael

[spudleafwillie]

Michael,
I dont use any other fertilizer, folar or other, The goat manure tea seems all my spudleafs need. The foilage is dark green and lush. I usually blend in 10-20 % of the goat manure when I mix my soil in the spring along with the composted steer manure and peat moss. No difference in the harvest size. My tomatoes get about 2 hours of shade from a small tree on the west side of the garden, otherwise all plants are in full sun all day long.

Spud