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June 5, 2014 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 2,593
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Why we like to over winter peppers
Put my over wintered peppers out and they are exploding with growth - should get ripe peppers on them a good 4-6 weeks ahead of the newly germinated plants for the not superhot peppers and 2 months ahead for the superhots. Some of my super hots - yellow fatali, yellow scorpion, red Congo, Cardi scorpion - are starting their third year and look great, full of blossoms. Even the ones that did not apparently survive the winter are putting out new growth from the roots.
As many of us have noted, superhots produce at least 5X more in their second year, as they seem to be a slow growing plant. |
June 5, 2014 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b
Posts: 1,302
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Yeah I want to try overwintering a few myself. Some I got a good start in the first year and want to keep them going.
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January 5, 2017 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Chicago
Posts: 115
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January 6, 2017 | #4 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Omaha Zone 5
Posts: 2,514
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Quote:
You are right about peppers being killed by a frost. They are grown as annuals in my area. The thread topic is about overwintering pepper plants indoors in containers. The beginning posts describe the technique. |
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January 14, 2017 | #5 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Michigan (Lambertville)
Posts: 21
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Quote:
Just have to say - I'm in Michigan, and I brought in my peppers this year.... I have a Carolina Reaper, a ghost pepper and an habanero that are doing far better than I expected! |
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June 5, 2014 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
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Scott, can you overwinter them outdoors in your climate? Any protection given? Here, I think I'd have to grow them in containers and bring indoors for the winter because I can't imagine the roots would take kindly to being dug up and put in a pot for the winter, only to be planted out again the following spring.
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June 5, 2014 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 2,593
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Kath, I can't overwinter outdoors, but I do overwinter in a room that is between 45-60 all winter.
And I do exactly that: I dig them up before the first hard frost, wash the roots thoroughly in a bucket of water until they are bare (basically by grabbing the stalk and dunking them up and down), sprinkle with a little myco, and then replant - in pots for over wintering or in the beds in spring. I never transfer soil between the two. That helps me see the root ball to diagnose any issues, and to ensure that any pests are not transported back and forth. So each plant is dug up twice a year. They don't seem bothered by it. I use Tania's recipe for container soil for the over wintering. Last edited by ScottinAtlanta; June 5, 2014 at 10:06 AM. |
June 27, 2016 | #8 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 554
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Quote:
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~Alfredo |
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June 5, 2014 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
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Wow, that's very interesting- I might give it a try this winter. DH will probably clear a spot for me in his cactus greenhouse or I guess I could just keep them in the basement. Do you keep them by a window, provide grow lights, or just let them go dormant?
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June 5, 2014 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 2,593
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I keep them by a window, but they basically go dormant due to the temps, lose their leaves, the outer branches turn brown, some turn into bare stalks...I reduce watering to a minimum, just when the soil is really dry. And then they take off as soon as they are put in warm soil in spring. I always lose about 1 out of 10, though.
I am sure they could be healthier if I weren't so lazy in the winter. Last edited by ScottinAtlanta; June 5, 2014 at 10:13 AM. |
June 5, 2014 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
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Thanks for all the details, Scott- it's really great to know that they can handle a bit of neglect!
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June 5, 2014 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 2,593
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See my pic above of the bare stalk - pushing new leaves and branches out of the last remaining length of surviving stalk. Even this one will out perform my new plants this year.
Every leaf you see on the pics above is new growth - there were almost no leaves left on them when I put them out in end March. |
June 5, 2014 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
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This is definitely something I want to remember to try this fall. I've been looking through other old threads here about overwintering peppers and it seems that people have varying degrees of luck using all kinds of methods: pruning/not, light/none, small pot/large, cold/heat, etc. My biggest concern is bug infestation since that seems to be a recurring theme. Not only because it'd be messy to spray inside during the winter, but because I don't want to have them already established anywhere that I need for seed-starting in spring.
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June 5, 2014 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Sterling Heights, MI Zone 6a/5b
Posts: 1,302
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June 5, 2014 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: zone 6b, PA
Posts: 5,664
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Those are huge, Drew! I'm hoping to keep things on the small side for convenience sake. Since I've already got a fig tree in the greenhouse and I want to try to save more than one in case some don't make it, it'll be important for me to limit the square footage needed for this experiment.
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