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General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.

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Old June 22, 2014   #1
LMinAL
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Default Hitting a wall with container tomatoes

This is my first year growing a few tomatoes in containers. Most are in ground, but I ran out of space (isn't that always the way lol) and decided to try out containers.

These are 22 gallon Rubbermaid tubs, holes drilled in the bottoms, with ARGG, Big Rainbow and Sungold. (Not exactly suited for containers, but it's a long story as to how they came to reside there.)

Everything grew great the first month and a half. Very healthy plants with great fruit set. But for the last 2 weeks the plants have stopped growing, particularly the Sungold. The leaves on each have started to curl. I've been feeding with Texas Tomato Food, maybe 1/4 strength with every watering which is generally every other day. The soil is Miracle Grow potting mix, (regular not moisture control).

Am I doing something wrong or is slowed growth to be expected from this setup? The ARGG and Big Rainbow have around 15 fruits set on each plant. The Sungold has dozens, but was hoping for a little more from it. Any suggestions would be welcome.



Thanks!
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Old June 22, 2014   #2
amideutch
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What has the ambient temperatures been in your area? Leaf curl can be caused by stress whether it's heat or lack of water. You might want to put your hand on the side of your containers and see if they are heating up from exposure to the sunlight.

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Old June 22, 2014   #3
MikeInCypress
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"These are 22 gallon Rubbermaid tubs, holes drilled in the bottoms"

Holes should be in the sides 2" up from the bottom. I'll bet the plants are too dry and should be watered every day.

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Old June 29, 2014   #4
Goldie321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amideutch View Post
What has the ambient temperatures been in your area? Leaf curl can be caused by stress whether it's heat or lack of water. You might want to put your hand on the side of your containers and see if they are heating up from exposure to the sunlight.

Ami
Heating up from the sun could easily be a factor. I wasn't thinking about that when I got my containers, but they are all bright yellow or white. Darker colors might be absorbing the heat.
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Old June 22, 2014   #5
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The temps have been in 85-90 degree range. They don't feel dry to me when I stick my finger in the soil, but perhaps they are overheated. I've seen people use bamboo shades around the bottom, so I'll give that a try since I have some not in use if you think that would be helpful.

New problem - upon checking them just now I discovered the ARGG has wilted a considerable amount since this morning and is very damp feeling. The new growth as well as older leaves are wilting. I'll try watering to see if it helps, even though it doesn't seem to need it. I also noticed ants and small white bugs in the soil. They aren't raised off the ground at all. Could that be the issue?

Thanks for the replies!
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Old June 22, 2014   #6
JJJessee
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I'm experimenting with containers this year. The I agree with Mike, holes on the lower sides is better.

I've been very satisfied with the progress on plants in SIP buckets I made.
For these an adequate volume of vermiculite in necessary to insure the water will wick up.
Soil nurtients can also be tricky to negociate in containers.

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Old June 28, 2014   #7
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What are SIPbuckets????
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Old June 22, 2014   #8
LMinAL
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I don't think there is anything I can do at this point about the holes, but I'll note that if I decide to do new containers in the future Mike. These were thrown together at the last minute to accommodate some plants I didn't have room for. Lesson learned!

Those look nice Jesse & glad they are working for you! I have seen some really impressive setups on here.
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Old June 23, 2014   #9
AKmark
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A great way to decide to water, or not, with large containers, is to lift the side of the container. I do this every day, it works well for me, I have really reduced cracking with heirlooms, and yield is good too. Some appear wet on top but are very light when lifted, others the opposite. When you transplant your seedlings and water them in, a container that size will weigh 75lbs or so when wet, when dry maybe 20, if that.
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Old June 23, 2014   #10
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I'll give that a try Mark! I can't lift them too much because of the trellis, but I think I can lift enough when wet and then dry to get a feel for the difference. I think that's been the biggest challenge for me - knowing just the right amount on water and ferts. No BER yet, so that's encouraging at least.
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Old June 23, 2014   #11
Ed of Somis
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as a side note...water-logged planting mix can curl leaves as well as drought. I always recommend a cheap moisture meter probe. For 10 bucks...they really do work well. You can be surprised when you are judging from the tops of containers. Also, think well-draining mix! You are on the right track.
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Old June 24, 2014   #12
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Sub irrigation is a kind of miracle technique, really. All container growing should be done that way, even smallish ones. It's not that hard to do and the plant ends up with a much greater water source that it can uptake as needed without the soil becoming water logged and watering intervals are extended a bit (eases the burden a little).

Meanwhile, you may want to see about raising the tubs off the ground. Ideally if you could get some catch trays, place some flat planks of wood or some other materials to help raise up the tubs so they're not resting on the bottom. I don't know how extensive the ant invasion is, but if it's a large colony that could be disturbing the root system.
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Old June 24, 2014   #13
Ed of Somis
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Default SIP buckets

for you who use the water from beneath SIP method...I am trying to learn about those. I like the idea of less work! Do small/young plants have the root system and ability to "soak up" the needed water?
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Old June 24, 2014   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed of Somis View Post
for you who use the water from beneath SIP method...I am trying to learn about those. I like the idea of less work! Do small/young plants have the root system and ability to "soak up" the needed water?
The growing medium will wick water upwards, so young plants still get enough. Just to make sure I do water for a short while through the top. The plants will tell you when you only need to water from the bottom.
I am using the "Alaska grow bucket" idea and am most impressed.
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Old June 25, 2014   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed of Somis View Post
for you who use the water from beneath SIP method...I am trying to learn about those. I like the idea of less work! Do small/young plants have the root system and ability to "soak up" the needed water?
I use EarthBoxes and get huge yields and fast growth. It has been raining daily for nearly two weeks and temperatures rarely get above 65°; awful conditions for growing tomatoes. My tomatoes are still about 5' tall and even with aggressive pruning they are monsters. My first lettuce planting is just about done and I need to plant the next batch. The neighbor has a regular in-ground garden and her tomato plants are about 18" tall and rather puny looking; pretty much what you would expect for the weather we have had. I put a tablespoon of Miracle grow down the feeder tube once a week and water every other day. I will need to water every day in another few weeks, because growth gets very strong in July and August. Everything was started from small plants after Mothers Day. Once you try this method you will have a hard time going back to what you did before.

Check my images here: http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=32820

Last edited by Balr14; June 25, 2014 at 10:58 AM.
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