Polycarbonate or PVC?

[Worth1]

Now that I have my washer moved and all the trimmings connected to the sewer I am ready to do something to that side of the house.

It is on the south east side and gets sun for the better part of the day.
This area is has shade in the summer as the leaves are out.

There is immediate access to 120 VAC and 240 VAC for electrical and water.

There will also be a clothes dryer vent that will go into the greenhouse for winter heating if desired.
This can be routed outside the greenhouse in the summer.
The ground slopes away from the house and there is plenty of room to build up for drainage.
The area tucks into a corner where I will only have to build two walls.

The area will be around 8x22 which will be 176 square feet.

The green house will be wood framed with concrete and cinder block foundation with dirt and gravel fill.
The foundation will have drains coming out the side going into a future onion patch.

All in all this is the perfect place for this contraption.

What I am asking is if which clear roofing material is better PVC or Poly carbonate.
The PVC is cheaper but which one holds up to UV better.
Total cost of the Poly stuff will be right at $400.
I dont want to do this more than once.

Worth

[dipchip2000]

Worth

No experience myself but most higher dollar greenhouses use the Poly Carbonate panels. I agree totally to do it one time and be done with it. Maybe some of the vendors on here with experience will chime in with professional opinions. My vote would be for Poly Carbonate.

ron

[Cole_Robbie]

I read a lot peoples' angry comments about the pvc turning cloudy in just a few years. It's meant to let light into barns and sheds more than it is for greenhouses. The polycarb is actually meant for greenhouses.

Even the polycarb will need to be replaced at some point. I would use a temporary shade paint like Kool Ray on it in the summers, and I think it would last longer that way. The paint can be pressure-washed off in the fall.

[Worth1]

Thanks guys that is what I was looking for.
Poly Carbonate it is.

The frame will be stained and the ground will have fill dirt a vapor barrier, gravel and then decking in that order.
The decking will be off the gravel about two inches.
Everything will be automated.
Heat cooling ventilation, fans, lights and irrigation.
I plan on covering it with something to protect it from the sun sometime in March or April.

It will mainly be for seed starting and grow out to adoption size for a plant selling venture at the farmers market and at my home.

I would like to be able to start out with about 1000 plants and see what happens from there.

More questions.
How many plants of around 12 inches tall could I get in it?

Would two foot shelves on the sides and a four foot walking area in the center be reasonable?

Worth

[Rockporter]

Worth, this is the cover I will be using when we get my new garden design built.


http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...439&cId=detail

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by Rockporter

Worth, this is the cover I will be using when we get my new garden design built.


http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...439&cId=detail

That's the same stuff I was going to use, you cant have it, its mine.

Worth

[Cole_Robbie]

How many plants of around 12 inches tall could I get in it?

Would two foot shelves on the sides and a four foot walking area in the center be reasonable?

I would guess that a plant a foot tall would take up about one square foot of shelf space. The ones on the edge of your bench hang over a little. I have found that cool weather plant starts like broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower. and lettuce really enjoy the shade underneath my tomato and pepper plants on the bench above them.

A 4' walkway is very reasonable. That's about what I have. It is plenty of space, unless you have big plants that hang over into the walkway.

[Worth1]

The trays I use are 11x22 and hold 18 plants in 3 inch cells.

I have grown around 400 plants and they were crowded but they were all in the 12 to 18 inch range when I planted out.

So I guess I could grow around 1500 plants if I had 4 22 foot shelves with the shelves set back and staggered a little.
My goal is to only supply tomatoes that do well here and only at a size that will allow them to do so.
I have never kept notes on all of them but I have a good memory.
Probably a hard sale but I have to try.
Worth

[Worth1]

Anybody ever put the clear roofing up?
It looks to me like a person would have to have a step ladder and work from the ground outwards.
No way can you crawl around on this stuff.
Is there a particular screw you use other than the ones you use on corrugated metal.
I can see where a person would need to pre-drill the holes to.


Worth

[Worth1]

I looked at videos and PDF files from the manufactures for installing the clear panels.
I have to say they all show a different way for the same stuff.
Even the frame work is different.

I did see a few things.
You need to drill holes somewhat bigger for the screws for expansion.
The really nice video showed the foam padding that fits the corrugated sheets.
Another guy did a good job and made the cross pieces on the rafters flush by notching the rafters, this is something I planed on doing.
One video was nice and said to start up wind and work your way down wind.
Other people warned that bug spray would ruin the plastic.

Worth

[Durgan]

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?HKERY 5 November 2010 Greenhouse on Deck.
I decided to build a large greenhouse on the deck, which doesn’t get much use. The enclosure will be a sun room if appropriate, instead of the canvas structure that use to be there. I have a small 10,000 BTU heater that connects to the barbecue natural gas outlet, so will have some warmth, and will get some use during the Winter months. It took nine days to build by myself, about 72 hours of labor, from 28 of October to 5 November, and cost $1798.63.
Description of the construction. Six, 6 by 6 pillars support the structure. The auxiliary supports are all 2 by 6 spruce planks. Two doors were installed plus a window to ensure reasonably good ventilation. I got the doors free of charge. The slope of the roof is from 8 feet to 7 feet, with a pitch of 1 in 12. Sun is available for about two third of the structure all day. Wood was used to cover the walls where no Sun penetrates. Corrugated SUNTUF UV protected panels was used. It is relatively low cost compared to other coverings, and is almost indestructible. Pictures depict highlights of the method used. Plans were in my head.

[Worth1]

Durgan I think you did a really nice job on the green house.
Very similar to the way I am going to construct mine.

I glad Neena was there to keep you moving or the job would never been completed.

Very nice indeed.

How well does the roof shed water with the 1 and 12 pitch?

Worth

[Durgan]

Originally Posted by Worth1

Durgan I think you did a really nice job on the green house.
Very similar to the way I am going to construct mine.

I glad Neena was there to keep you moving or the job would never been completed.

Very nice indeed.

How well does the roof shed water with the 1 and 12 pitch?

Worth

The pitch 1 in 12 is just fine. I was concerned about snow load and it has survived three winters so far. I made it 12 feet so one 2 foot wide panel could be used, when installing the roof.

I enclosed the side that gets little Sun. Good ventilation is very important, hence the two doors. A neighbor gave me the doors, which can be an additional cost. Costs can add up quickly. The screws are expensive, and the sponge purlin material is not cheap. I only use mine for starting seeds. I heat it with natural gas (10,000 BTU)and can prevent freezing when outside temperature is as low as minus 15 C. Even then the plants must be kept from being too close to the outside walls. I also place the seedling trays on a heating pad in some cases.

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by Durgan

The pitch 1 in 12 is just fine. I was concerned about snow load and it has survived three winters so far. I made it 12 feet so one 2 foot wide panel could be used, when installing the roof.

I enclosed the side that gets little Sun. Good ventilation is very important, hence the two doors. A neighbor gave me the doors, which can be an additional cost. Costs can add up quickly. The screws are expensive, and the sponge purlin material is not cheap. I only use mine for starting seeds. I heat it with natural gas (10,000 BTU)and can prevent freezing when outside temperature is as low as minus 15 C. Even then the plants must be kept from being too close to the outside walls. I also place the seedling trays on a heating pad in some cases.

I will just build the doors from Douglas Fir, I have everything to do it and used to build doors in another life.
A few years ago a good friend of mine and myself did all of the wood work in this old court house.
I ran the moulder and built the doors with him.
It was a restore job and what couldn't be salvaged had to be replaced.
Paul passed away a few years ago after many years in a wheel chair from a car wreck.
His father is the one that taught me wood working.

Well here it is the Denton county court house and our handy work.

Worth

[Durgan]

Originally Posted by Worth1

Now that I have my washer moved and all the trimmings connected to the sewer I am ready to do something to that side of the house.

It is on the south east side and gets sun for the better part of the day.
This area is has shade in the summer as the leaves are out.

There is immediate access to 120 VAC and 240 VAC for electrical and water.

There will also be a clothes dryer vent that will go into the greenhouse for winter heating if desired.
This can be routed outside the greenhouse in the summer.
The ground slopes away from the house and there is plenty of room to build up for drainage.
The area tucks into a corner where I will only have to build two walls.

The area will be around 8x22 which will be 176 square feet.

The green house will be wood framed with concrete and cinder block foundation with dirt and gravel fill.
The foundation will have drains coming out the side going into a future onion patch.

All in all this is the perfect place for this contraption.

What I am asking is if which clear roofing material is better PVC or Poly carbonate.
The PVC is cheaper but which one holds up to UV better.
Total cost of the Poly stuff will be right at $400.
I dont want to do this more than once.

Worth

I have much experience with clear roofing. The wavy paneling is useless. Sun makes it brittle over a few years about three. The UV protected paneling must be used. It is used on my two sheds for roofing instead of shingles. Relatively easy to install using special screws. I once built a greenhouse 10 by 12 using the clear panels.
http://www.rssupplyinc.com/Portals/0...NTUFRSCOPY.pdf
http://www.palram.com/suntuf

I used the cheaper wavy PVC at first and had to replace it after three years. It became brittle and cracked during the Winter The Suntuf has a different shape than the normal wavy PVC paneling. For mounting I found sponge better than plastic purlins.