how do I get more flowers?

cleo88 · June 21, 2011

I want more tomato flowers.
Of course, everyone probably does. But I don't think I have my fair share.
My plants are green and healthy, so one idea is excess Nitrogen.
What about other factors?
Do I need more Phosphorous?
Is the fact that I only get 5 hours of sunlight influencing (negatively) the number of flowers I am getting?
Are there other factors?
Attached is perhaps the most dramatic example in my garden: a great looking, 2 1/2 feet tall plant (Maltese) that has been in the ground for 4 weeks and maybe has one teeny truss that I can hardly see. Frustrating!

FILMNET · June 21, 2011

I live on the north shore here in Ma, My plants look like yours, mine get 8-10 hrs of sun. My have big leaves like yours, and are only 12inch-36inch tall. I have flowers on all 18 plants and 6 feet stick on them, last year they were all 36 high but not big Leaves. May 24 my plant were in ground.

Gobig_or_Gohome_toms · June 21, 2011

5 hours is on the low side I think 6-8 with 8+ being ideal conditions for tomatoes, sorry I cannot provide any ideas on how to get more with 5 hours of sun it might not be a nutrient issue might be more of an amount of sunlight issue on getting more flowers.

Craig

wmontanez · June 21, 2011

I am also in MA in the Merrimack Valley. My plants look similar to FILMNET in the 18-24in tall side maybe more flowers but probably is variety dependent since I am growing paste mostly and some determinates. I have mine with 8+ hours of direct light and another bed in more shaded area. I can tell those is the shaded area are smaller and less flowers so maybe the sun amount is the problem cause your plants looks very healthy!. I fertilized with tomatotone and mycorrizhae at planting time. Once I remove all the foliage from the soil up to the first cruster of flowers my plants seem to grow faster and develop more fruit. I do the same with the peppers all foliage removed to the fork when the plant branches out. Now this year they look behind.

Worth1 · June 21, 2011

I agree with Craig the lack of proper sunlight has a dramatic affect on blooms on all sorts of sun loving plants.

Worth

**nctomatoman** · June 21, 2011

The number of flowers on a plant is also strongly linked to the particular variety. Cherokee Purple for example tends to put out clusters with an enormous number of blossoms (not all of which set, of course). Yet, right next to it in my driveway, Isis (oddly for a cherry) has relatively few blossoms on a cluster. And on some varieties the clusters are spaced more widely up the stem.

One thing for sure - the number of flowers will be heavily influenced by your pruning technique. Allowing all side shoots to develop (which is more common with caging) will mean lots of blossoms, because you will have lots of stems. Pruning to a single stem and staking will significantly reduce the fruiting potential of the plant, but may work best for some gardeners who are space constrained.

zipcode · June 22, 2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by nctomatoman

One thing for sure - the number of flowers will be heavily influenced by your pruning technique. Allowing all side shoots to develop (which is more common with caging) will mean lots of blossoms, because you will have lots of stems. Pruning to a single stem and staking will significantly reduce the fruiting potential of the plant, but may work best for some gardeners who are space constrained.

I sort of disagree with this. In my experience, pruned plants will have more flowers per cluster than non pruned (for most varieties). Of course, if we calculate the total number, then you're probably right, but the difference is not so big. Depending of conditions those flowers may not all make fruit (not because of flower drop, they just freeze as very small, and sometimes start growing but not always) because the pruned plant will not have enough power for all.

cleo88, if you have 5 hours of sun, I strongly suggest pruning to one stem and planting them spaced, otherwise all those leaves will shadow each other and you won't have any benefits. If you don't have disease problems, you can get a very decent crop this way even with 4-5 hours.

jdmfish · June 21, 2011

I'm only getting about 5 hours a day, since it's too hot to normally leave plants out during this time of the year, and I don't have much trouble getting flowers to set, and getting fruit. In fact I just harvested three tomatoes today - in Central FL when most growers crops were done a month ago.

Then again I have to bring my plants in every day to get away from the HOT sun. I'm normally bringing them in when it reaches roughly 90* outside. It's a little more work, but I'm not having trouble...yet.

sprtsguy76 · June 21, 2011

I agree with the above. Quite honestly I think more patience is required here too. That plant shown in the picture is still a baby, you cant expect more blooms at such an early stage. Give it another two or three weeks and I think you'll be happier. JMO.

Damon

Worth1 · June 22, 2011

It could be just the plant.

I have had identical plants in identical soil in identical light right next to each other and one would put out tons of blossoms while the other didn't.

I think you should wait until it gets bigger to worry it is still a wee little thing.

Worth

Tormato · June 22, 2011

Cleo,

To me, the plant looks a little small to have loads of blossoms. My guess is that when it gets to about 3 1/2 feet tall, you'll have your flowers.

A little bloom booster (like Peters 10-50-10) might help.

Dr. L

ve Apple

**nctomatoman** · June 22, 2011

zipcode, I based my statement on growing hundreds of plants (and hundreds of different varieties) in various ways in various locations. So it is based on my experience and close observations. You may have different experiences, which is fine.

Stepheninky · June 22, 2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by nctomatoman

zipcode, I based my statement on growing hundreds of plants (and hundreds of different varieties) in various ways in various locations. So it is based on my experience and close observations. You may have different experiences, which is fine.

I also agree with Craig, In my experience if you prune you have less blooms and less fruit but the fruit size will be more consistent and over all bigger on average. I have also read many comparisons on total yield and by weight and not number of tomatoes caging vs pruning they usually come out pretty close.

Determinate tomatoes will usually be covered in blooms but keep in mind once the fruit has set they slow down a lot. So More blooms at one time may not be the best indicator of what the end yield will be.

I also agree that the plants shown are still a bit small. As they grow a bit I bet you will see more in the way of blooms. I feel you though I am also much later getting the plants in the ground and suffered some set backs with flooding and hail so I can relate to feeling like there should be more blooms and fruit then what I have

Farmette · June 23, 2011

So, is it true that once the flowering begins the vertical growth of the tomato slows down and if so, would it be wise to remove early flowers so that the length of the plant is greater. Does the increased height result in an increase in flowers?

travis · June 22, 2011

My response is going to be to the original post, and to the photograph provided in the OP.

First off, I think you are a bit too antsy. Considering the size of the plant, its age, there shouldn't be but one cluster of flowers at the most if that is a normal indeterminate.

On an indeterminate variety, the first flowers will appear just above the 5th - 7th leaf node, and then every 3rd internode thereafter, give or take abnormalities. Same goes for each side shoot - they too will throw out their first flower cluster after the 5th leaf node.

Go out there and count your leaf nodes - the crotches where leaf fronds grow out from the stems. If you have more than 7 leaf nodes on the main stem and no flowers, then start worrying. But looking at your plant, I see either one main stem and major side shoot, or twin fasciated main stems. In either case, I don't see more than 6 or 7 leaf nodes on either stem. Rest easy.

Now, to stimulate flower production and flower health, yes go easy on the nitrogen. Like Dr. Love Apple said, get some fertilizer that's formulated for bloom production - substantially higher in phosphorus than nitrogen.

Also, you can stimulate the plant to produce flowers by leaf pruning, and I don't mean you have to mutilate the plant, or to so severely prune it that some of the folks here go into canniption fits and have you arrested for plant abuse. But, you know what, you can nip the ends off each leaf frond. Take about the outter 1/4 or 1/3 of the leaf off, and maybe remove all the lower leaves up to the first flower cluster. That should kick the plant into phosphorus mode a bit, because you're actually removing the nitrogen supply from the plant itself.

But main thing is to remain patient since your plants are so young, and the fact is, they shouldn't be covered up with flowers at this point in time.

June 21, 2011	#4
wmontanez Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: MA Posts: 776	I am also in MA in the Merrimack Valley. My plants look similar to FILMNET in the 18-24in tall side maybe more flowers but probably is variety dependent since I am growing paste mostly and some determinates. I have mine with 8+ hours of direct light and another bed in more shaded area. I can tell those is the shaded area are smaller and less flowers so maybe the sun amount is the problem cause your plants looks very healthy!. I fertilized with tomatotone and mycorrizhae at planting time. Once I remove all the foliage from the soil up to the first cruster of flowers my plants seem to grow faster and develop more fruit. I do the same with the peppers all foliage removed to the fork when the plant branches out. Now this year they look behind. __________________ Wendy

June 21, 2011	#6
nctomatoman Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7 Posts: 10,385	The number of flowers on a plant is also strongly linked to the particular variety. Cherokee Purple for example tends to put out clusters with an enormous number of blossoms (not all of which set, of course). Yet, right next to it in my driveway, Isis (oddly for a cherry) has relatively few blossoms on a cluster. And on some varieties the clusters are spaced more widely up the stem. One thing for sure - the number of flowers will be heavily influenced by your pruning technique. Allowing all side shoots to develop (which is more common with caging) will mean lots of blossoms, because you will have lots of stems. Pruning to a single stem and staking will significantly reduce the fruiting potential of the plant, but may work best for some gardeners who are space constrained. __________________ Craig

June 22, 2011	#11
Tormato Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: MA Posts: 4,971	Cleo, To me, the plant looks a little small to have loads of blossoms. My guess is that when it gets to about 3 1/2 feet tall, you'll have your flowers. A little bloom booster (like Peters 10-50-10) might help. Dr. Lve Apple

June 22, 2011	#12
nctomatoman Tomatoville® Moderator Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7 Posts: 10,385	zipcode, I based my statement on growing hundreds of plants (and hundreds of different varieties) in various ways in various locations. So it is based on my experience and close observations. You may have different experiences, which is fine. __________________ Craig

June 21, 2011	#2
FILMNET Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: North Charleston,South Carolina, USA Posts: 1,803	I live on the north shore here in Ma, My plants look like yours, mine get 8-10 hrs of sun. My have big leaves like yours, and are only 12inch-36inch tall. I have flowers on all 18 plants and 6 feet stick on them, last year they were all 36 high but not big Leaves. May 24 my plant were in ground.

June 21, 2011	#3
Gobig_or_Gohome_toms Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Zone 4 Lake Minnetonka, MN Posts: 967	5 hours is on the low side I think 6-8 with 8+ being ideal conditions for tomatoes, sorry I cannot provide any ideas on how to get more with 5 hours of sun it might not be a nutrient issue might be more of an amount of sunlight issue on getting more flowers. Craig

June 21, 2011	#5
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	I agree with Craig the lack of proper sunlight has a dramatic affect on blooms on all sorts of sun loving plants. Worth

June 21, 2011	#8
jdmfish Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2011 Location: FL Posts: 101	I'm only getting about 5 hours a day, since it's too hot to normally leave plants out during this time of the year, and I don't have much trouble getting flowers to set, and getting fruit. In fact I just harvested three tomatoes today - in Central FL when most growers crops were done a month ago. Then again I have to bring my plants in every day to get away from the HOT sun. I'm normally bringing them in when it reaches roughly 90* outside. It's a little more work, but I'm not having trouble...yet.

June 21, 2011	#9
sprtsguy76 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2007 Location: Santa Clara CA Posts: 1,125	I agree with the above. Quite honestly I think more patience is required here too. That plant shown in the picture is still a baby, you cant expect more blooms at such an early stage. Give it another two or three weeks and I think you'll be happier. JMO. Damon

June 23, 2011	#14
Farmette Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2009 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 985	So, is it true that once the flowering begins the vertical growth of the tomato slows down and if so, would it be wise to remove early flowers so that the length of the plant is greater. Does the increased height result in an increase in flowers?

June 22, 2011	#15
travis Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Evansville, IN Posts: 2,984	My response is going to be to the original post, and to the photograph provided in the OP. First off, I think you are a bit too antsy. Considering the size of the plant, its age, there shouldn't be but one cluster of flowers at the most if that is a normal indeterminate. On an indeterminate variety, the first flowers will appear just above the 5th - 7th leaf node, and then every 3rd internode thereafter, give or take abnormalities. Same goes for each side shoot - they too will throw out their first flower cluster after the 5th leaf node. Go out there and count your leaf nodes - the crotches where leaf fronds grow out from the stems. If you have more than 7 leaf nodes on the main stem and no flowers, then start worrying. But looking at your plant, I see either one main stem and major side shoot, or twin fasciated main stems. In either case, I don't see more than 6 or 7 leaf nodes on either stem. Rest easy. Now, to stimulate flower production and flower health, yes go easy on the nitrogen. Like Dr. Love Apple said, get some fertilizer that's formulated for bloom production - substantially higher in phosphorus than nitrogen. Also, you can stimulate the plant to produce flowers by leaf pruning, and I don't mean you have to mutilate the plant, or to so severely prune it that some of the folks here go into canniption fits and have you arrested for plant abuse. But, you know what, you can nip the ends off each leaf frond. Take about the outter 1/4 or 1/3 of the leaf off, and maybe remove all the lower leaves up to the first flower cluster. That should kick the plant into phosphorus mode a bit, because you're actually removing the nitrogen supply from the plant itself. But main thing is to remain patient since your plants are so young, and the fact is, they shouldn't be covered up with flowers at this point in time.