Myth-Busters Challenge - Calcium Nitrate (the "Snack")

rnewste · September 20, 2011

Last Season, I bought a 5 pound bag of Calcium Nitrate (15.5-0-0 19% Ca) to experiment with strengthening the plant over the growing Season.

My results were inconclusive, as I didn't have a "control" method to observe "with, and without"

This Season, I aligned 2 EarthTainers side-by-side, and planted 4 identical Brandywine from Croatia plants. The 2 plants in the 'Tainer on the left were my "control" plants, while the 2 plants in the 'Tainer on the right received the "Snack" treatment.

Not a great photo, but I think you can see the significant difference in plant vigor with the ones given the "Snack". Dosage was one Teaspoon per plant, per month watered in. Is this the optimal dosage - - probably not, but it is an indicator that adding Calcium Nitrate does indeed produce a more vibrant plant. I sense no taste difference in the fruits from both sets of plants.

I just purchased a (life-long) supply of 25 pounds for about $22.00 delivered, on eBay tonight.

Raybo

akgardengirl · September 21, 2011

The plant on the right might look healthier but the one on the left has more ready to eat tomatoes on it. I'm going with the tainer on the left!
Sue B

RayR · September 21, 2011

Raybo, what ferts were you using for the control and in the 'Tainer with the "snack"?

rnewste · September 21, 2011

Sue,

Actually, the foliage on the plants in the Tainer on the right are hiding a lot more fruit, not apparent in the photo. While I haven't done an actual count, they are both about equal in tomatoes today. What I am thinking is the plants in the right 'Tainer will live longer, and overall will produce more fruits for the Season.

Ray, I used 2 Cups of New Tomato-tone in the strips at the beginning of the Season. Nothing added since original planting back in early April.

Raybo

RayR · September 22, 2011

Quote:

Originally Posted by rnewste

Ray, I used 2 Cups of New Tomato-tone in the strips at the beginning of the Season. Nothing added since original planting back in early April.

Raybo

Excuse my ignorance Raybo, I'm not totally read up on SWC's like Earthtainers, my experience is only with standard containers and in-ground growing, but
when using an organic fertilizer you don't incorporate any into the container mix itself before you transplant? You only put it in the strips??

rnewste · September 22, 2011

Ray,

The conventional wisdom when growing in SWCs is to add the Dolomite Lime (2 cups into the mix when filling), and then add 2 cups of fertilizer like Tomato-tone) in a trench, about 3 inches deep, just prior to planting the 2 tomato seedlings.

In theory, this should be enough fertilizer to disperse throughout the Grow Media during the course of the Season. I know this is a gross statement, as a large plant like Big Beef will drain the fertilizer at a much higher rate than a small variety - - but that is the general guideline with the commercial EarthBox.

I find that mid-way through the Season, adding in a water soluble fertilizer "boost" is helpful. I've been experimenting with these products:

Obviously, the Calcium Nitrate "Snack" also provides a Nitrogen as well as Calcium shot in the arm, so to speak. The trick is to figure out what dosage, and frequency are ideal - - something I am still experimenting with....

Raybo

tomakers · September 21, 2011

I just purchased a 50 lb bag(don't remember the price) for my onions. Supposedly the best thing to use if your soil is acidic. Actually the salesman thought I was buying it for tomatoes, to stop BER, but I hardly ever have BER problems(knocking on wood). I will try it next year on my tomatoes.

Irv Wiseguy · September 21, 2011

Ray,

Posters on other forums are recommending 1 TSP per week for Earthboxes. I've been doing that this year but still have some BER issues.

Irv

rnewste · September 21, 2011

Thanks Irv. As the EarthTainer holds about twice as much Grow Media as compared to the EarthBox, I will certainly increase my application as you recommend.

Raybo

z_willus_d · September 22, 2011

Raybo, nice thread. I always like to see experimentation like this to try and characterize or "prove" concepts. But, of course, a one time, sample-size=1, A-B experiment isn't really going to prove anything too definitively. Nonetheless, I did just now purchase a 25-lb bag from Ebay myself (http://www.ebay.com/itm/350445997095...84.m1439.l2649).

It ended up at a bit over $23- shipped to CA.

When you applied your crystals, did you apply them dry and water over, or did you first disolve them in water (sounds like 20-to-1 is the recommended ratio) and then apply?

I'm still ramping up on my dwarf tomato plants for indoor growing through the Winter/Spring season (looking for that indoor InnTainer write-up from you -- hint hint), and I expect I'll need to decide on a fertilize regiment that I'll need to keep closely. I'm already seeing one of the first true leaves on my first sprout turn Yellow. I grew it in Pro-Mix Fpg, so I'm hoping it just lacking nutrients (of which I've since added some with a does of worm casing on top) ... and not a burn from too much heat/light or some early manifestation of disease (even worse).
-naysen

ps. I used the Tiger Bloom as a foliar spray in my garden this year. It seemed to help with blossom/fruit creation, but it's hard to draw any real conclusions since the season was changing cold-to-warm-to-hot at the same time. I had nearly zero bees this year, just one big black mother doing the work for the rest.

Dutch · September 22, 2011

Page 3 in the pdf below explains some of the science behind Calcinit,
Calcium Nitrate (Nitrogen 15.5% Calcium 19.0%).
Dutch

rnewste · September 22, 2011

I simply sprinkle the 1 Teaspoon of the Snack around the base of the plant - - then water in for 10 seconds, or so. Seems to dissolve quickly. I have heard of others dropping the Teaspoon full down the Filler Tube, then giving it a shot with the hose to mix it up in the water reservoir.

Raybo

b54red · September 22, 2011

I have noticed that I get a more positive result with the fertilizer boost when the weather gets very hot and dry. It seems the plants need the help during those trying times. You might want to wait til later in the season and add the calcium nitrate more frequently. I don't generally have to worry about too much foliage growth from mid July til it freezes; but I have noticed when I give them a little too much in the spring the foliage becomes a little too much and the plants actually produce less fruit.

smileytom · September 22, 2011

B54, a little OT but when do you usually experience the first killing frost in your part of AL? I am hoping my fall tomatoes (all planted in July) will have time to make ripe fruit.

September 20, 2011	#1
rnewste Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Campbell, CA Posts: 4,064	Myth-Busters Challenge - Calcium Nitrate (the "Snack") Last Season, I bought a 5 pound bag of Calcium Nitrate (15.5-0-0 19% Ca) to experiment with strengthening the plant over the growing Season. My results were inconclusive, as I didn't have a "control" method to observe "with, and without" This Season, I aligned 2 EarthTainers side-by-side, and planted 4 identical Brandywine from Croatia plants. The 2 plants in the 'Tainer on the left were my "control" plants, while the 2 plants in the 'Tainer on the right received the "Snack" treatment. Not a great photo, but I think you can see the significant difference in plant vigor with the ones given the "Snack". Dosage was one Teaspoon per plant, per month watered in. Is this the optimal dosage - - probably not, but it is an indicator that adding Calcium Nitrate does indeed produce a more vibrant plant. I sense no taste difference in the fruits from both sets of plants. I just purchased a (life-long) supply of 25 pounds for about $22.00 delivered, on eBay tonight. Raybo

September 21, 2011	#7
tomakers Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2006 Location: Cranberry Country, SE MA - zone 6? Posts: 353	I just purchased a 50 lb bag(don't remember the price) for my onions. Supposedly the best thing to use if your soil is acidic. Actually the salesman thought I was buying it for tomatoes, to stop BER, but I hardly ever have BER problems(knocking on wood). I will try it next year on my tomatoes. __________________ I never met a fish I didn't like.

September 21, 2011	#2
akgardengirl Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Anchorage, AK zone 3/4 Posts: 1,410	The plant on the right might look healthier but the one on the left has more ready to eat tomatoes on it. I'm going with the tainer on the left! Sue B

September 21, 2011	#3
RayR Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Cheektowaga, NY Posts: 2,466	Raybo, what ferts were you using for the control and in the 'Tainer with the "snack"?

September 22, 2011	#6
rnewste Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Campbell, CA Posts: 4,064	Ray, The conventional wisdom when growing in SWCs is to add the Dolomite Lime (2 cups into the mix when filling), and then add 2 cups of fertilizer like Tomato-tone) in a trench, about 3 inches deep, just prior to planting the 2 tomato seedlings. In theory, this should be enough fertilizer to disperse throughout the Grow Media during the course of the Season. I know this is a gross statement, as a large plant like Big Beef will drain the fertilizer at a much higher rate than a small variety - - but that is the general guideline with the commercial EarthBox. I find that mid-way through the Season, adding in a water soluble fertilizer "boost" is helpful. I've been experimenting with these products: Obviously, the Calcium Nitrate "Snack" also provides a Nitrogen as well as Calcium shot in the arm, so to speak. The trick is to figure out what dosage, and frequency are ideal - - something I am still experimenting with.... Raybo

September 21, 2011	#8
Irv Wiseguy Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Thousand Oaks, CA Posts: 281	Ray, Posters on other forums are recommending 1 TSP per week for Earthboxes. I've been doing that this year but still have some BER issues. Irv

September 22, 2011	#10
z_willus_d Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Eastern Suburb of Sacramento, CA Posts: 1,313	Raybo, nice thread. I always like to see experimentation like this to try and characterize or "prove" concepts. But, of course, a one time, sample-size=1, A-B experiment isn't really going to prove anything too definitively. Nonetheless, I did just now purchase a 25-lb bag from Ebay myself (http://www.ebay.com/itm/350445997095...84.m1439.l2649). It ended up at a bit over $23- shipped to CA. When you applied your crystals, did you apply them dry and water over, or did you first disolve them in water (sounds like 20-to-1 is the recommended ratio) and then apply? I'm still ramping up on my dwarf tomato plants for indoor growing through the Winter/Spring season (looking for that indoor InnTainer write-up from you -- hint hint), and I expect I'll need to decide on a fertilize regiment that I'll need to keep closely. I'm already seeing one of the first true leaves on my first sprout turn Yellow. I grew it in Pro-Mix Fpg, so I'm hoping it just lacking nutrients (of which I've since added some with a does of worm casing on top) ... and not a burn from too much heat/light or some early manifestation of disease (even worse). -naysen ps. I used the Tiger Bloom as a foliar spray in my garden this year. It seemed to help with blossom/fruit creation, but it's hard to draw any real conclusions since the season was changing cold-to-warm-to-hot at the same time. I had nearly zero bees this year, just one big black mother doing the work for the rest.

September 22, 2011	#13
b54red Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Alabama Posts: 7,068	I have noticed that I get a more positive result with the fertilizer boost when the weather gets very hot and dry. It seems the plants need the help during those trying times. You might want to wait til later in the season and add the calcium nitrate more frequently. I don't generally have to worry about too much foliage growth from mid July til it freezes; but I have noticed when I give them a little too much in the spring the foliage becomes a little too much and the plants actually produce less fruit.

September 22, 2011	#14
smileytom Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2011 Location: Auburn Alabama Posts: 44	B54, a little OT but when do you usually experience the first killing frost in your part of AL? I am hoping my fall tomatoes (all planted in July) will have time to make ripe fruit.