2012 garden pics

chancethegardener · January 28, 2012

I started the tomato and other vegetable seeds some time ago. I harvested a few tomatoes from my Nyagous and Rutgers plants that I put in ground late last year. These plants started struggling with powdery mildew however I didn't treat them since I didn't expect much from them. In terms of taste, I can say that Nyagous' fruits were slightly salty (something that I didn't experience with other blacks before) and Rutgers fruit was bland.

gssgarden · January 28, 2012

Now those are BLACK!!

Greg

chancethegardener · February 6, 2012

Here are some new pics (can anyone tell me how to display picture labels right below the pictures so that I won't have to write down the labels separately?):
Pic 1, 2, 3: Paul Robeson that I put in the ground late last year. This plant has lots of flowers and nice fruits on it as you can see from the pictures.
Pic 4: Tom Thumb pea. This is a beautiful plant. I purchased the seeds from Seed Savers Exchange.
Pic 5: Goliath broccoli finally producing some broccoli.
Pic 6: Tomato seedlings.
Pic 7: Rosso Sicilian seedlings (pot in the sort of middle of the first row). I am showing this because the seedlings are beautiful, leaves have smoother ends and are wider.
Pic 8: Mary Washington asparagus growing (planted as crowns).

chancethegardener · February 6, 2012

I also have another Paul Robeson plant which I planted next to other Paul Robeson that I showed in the entry above. Both plants were planted at the same time, received same fertilizers (I added crab shells in the soil, after the plant started flowering I also added tomato-tone and watered the plants with seaweed solution couple of times, and sprayed the leaves with worm castings solution). While the Paul Robeson I am showing here also has fruits and tons of flowers, leaves at the top of the plant don't look very healthy to me and it hasn't grown as vigorously as the other Paul Robeson plant.

One problem I am having with the raised beds is that the invasive plant roots (I am guessing these are the roots of the trees) that I have to clean up at the end of every growing season and before I transplant new seedlings (roots are shown in the picture below). Beside the fact that removing these roots are very time-consuming and a pain in the neck, could they also be choking the roots of the vegetables and in this case my Paul Robeson plant I am showing the picture of?

chancethegardener · February 15, 2012

I have been using a composter since early 2011 to make my own compost. You can see the composter and the product of one year of composting below. I am excited to see if this compost will make any difference in the garden this year.

chancethegardener · February 25, 2012

Some more pics from the garden... I just picked a 7.7 oz of Paul Robeson tomato. It tastes delicious

.

tgplp · February 25, 2012

Looks great! That Paul Robeson is making me jealous.

Thanks for sharing!

Taryn

salix · February 25, 2012

And I am envying the bucketful of brassicas! Thanks for sharing, it will be another 2 months before I can plant my cabbage seeds.

chancethegardener · February 25, 2012

Taryn and Salix, thanks much. I hope you both have a nice harvest this year. I also have spared one of the beds for other brassicas to narrow down my next year list. In this bed I have Napa, Savoy, New Jersey, Cour di Bue, Tete Noire cabbage, white kohlrabi, Purple of Sicily and Giant of Naples cauliflower, and De Cicco broccoli (first picture). Additionally I have 5 Long Island Brussels sprouts seedlings that I will grow in containers.

I have a problem with the brassica bed (second picture). Is this some sort of a rust or mildew? I sprayed the plants with copper-based Espoma fungicide. Any experience with this product?

raindrops27 · February 26, 2012

I always buy broccoli seeds with the intention to plant my own, because it is my all time favorite vegetable. But, I always get turned off with other planters comments about how broccoli is basically infused with thousands of worms, while growing, and harvesting. So, I have yet to even try my hand at growing it. But, I see no pest damage on your broccoli Chance, what is your secret?

TIA

Melissa

John3 · April 2, 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by chancethegardener

Taryn and Salix, thanks much. I hope you both have a nice harvest this year. I also have spared one of the beds for other brassicas to narrow down my next year list. In this bed I have Napa, Savoy, New Jersey, Cour di Bue, Tete Noire cabbage, white kohlrabi, Purple of Sicily and Giant of Naples cauliflower, and De Cicco broccoli (first picture). Additionally I have 5 Long Island Brussels sprouts seedlings that I will grow in containers.

I have a problem with the brassica bed (second picture). Is this some sort of a rust or mildew? I sprayed the plants with copper-based Espoma fungicide. Any experience with this product?

It gets very hot and humid here at times - I have pretty good luck with cold press Neem Oil applied two ways:
1 - If you know it is going to rain spray the plants before the rain - be sure spray the underside of the leaves.
2 - Spray the plants early morning or evening (spraying in the hot sunny times may burn your leaves) about once week - even doing this still do 1 when it's going to rain. And - be sure spray the underside of the leaves.
NOTE: do not spray your bees as the neem oil will kill them.

RayR · February 27, 2012

Chance, that looks like Downy Mildew, look at the undersides of the leaves for white/gray fuzzy spots, that is where it starts. You won't see those white/gray dead spots on the top of the leaves until later when the fungus eats through. If that is what it is, then the copper fungicide should work, you can also try Neem Oil or a 10% milk solution. Make sure you spray the undersides of the leaves.

Melissa, you only need one thing to handle those pesky cabbage worms. Regular applications of BT.

janezee · February 27, 2012

Better still, go to Joanne's Fabric, and get some bridal veil tulle. It comes in different widths. I use the 108" wide to cover my beds before the moths arrive in the spring. Costs $3/yard. Does the trick nicely.

chancethegardener · February 27, 2012

Melissa, I haven't had a serious problem with cabbage worms so far but for tomato plants I always use BT to get rid of the worms so I would take Ray's advice on cabbage worms. One issue with my -currently- brassica bed (shown in the picture in my previous post) is that there is something wrong with the soil in this bed. I think somehow seedlings that I plant in this bed gets disease easily.

Ray, thanks for your recommendation. I have another question: Do you think if I throw the soil in this bed away and replace it with fresh amendments, would it help to fight with diseases? I applied Actinovate in the soil and GreenCure on the plants. I will see if it helps.

babice · March 31, 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by chancethegardener

...for tomato plants I always use BT to get rid of the worms...

So....what is BT? (learning the lingo 'round here)

January 28, 2012	#2
gssgarden Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: N.C. Posts: 1,827	Now those are BLACK!! Greg

February 25, 2012	#7
tgplp Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Pacific North West, zone 8a Posts: 510	Looks great! That Paul Robeson is making me jealous. Thanks for sharing! Taryn

February 25, 2012	#8
salix Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: north central B.C. Posts: 2,310	And I am envying the bucketful of brassicas! Thanks for sharing, it will be another 2 months before I can plant my cabbage seeds.

February 26, 2012	#10
raindrops27 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: long island Posts: 327	I always buy broccoli seeds with the intention to plant my own, because it is my all time favorite vegetable. But, I always get turned off with other planters comments about how broccoli is basically infused with thousands of worms, while growing, and harvesting. So, I have yet to even try my hand at growing it. But, I see no pest damage on your broccoli Chance, what is your secret? TIA Melissa

February 27, 2012	#12
RayR Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Cheektowaga, NY Posts: 2,474	Chance, that looks like Downy Mildew, look at the undersides of the leaves for white/gray fuzzy spots, that is where it starts. You won't see those white/gray dead spots on the top of the leaves until later when the fungus eats through. If that is what it is, then the copper fungicide should work, you can also try Neem Oil or a 10% milk solution. Make sure you spray the undersides of the leaves. Melissa, you only need one thing to handle those pesky cabbage worms. Regular applications of BT.

February 27, 2012	#13
janezee Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Whidbey Island, WA Zone 7, Sunset 5 Posts: 931	Better still, go to Joanne's Fabric, and get some bridal veil tulle. It comes in different widths. I use the 108" wide to cover my beds before the moths arrive in the spring. Costs $3/yard. Does the trick nicely.

February 27, 2012	#14
chancethegardener Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: WV Posts: 604	Melissa, I haven't had a serious problem with cabbage worms so far but for tomato plants I always use BT to get rid of the worms so I would take Ray's advice on cabbage worms. One issue with my -currently- brassica bed (shown in the picture in my previous post) is that there is something wrong with the soil in this bed. I think somehow seedlings that I plant in this bed gets disease easily. Ray, thanks for your recommendation. I have another question: Do you think if I throw the soil in this bed away and replace it with fresh amendments, would it help to fight with diseases? I applied Actinovate in the soil and GreenCure on the plants. I will see if it helps.