Information and discussion for successfully cultivating potatoes, the world's fourth largest crop.
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March 22, 2012 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: bald hill area thurston county washington
Posts: 312
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sprout jacking (w/pics)
cutting to three weeks.....ready to plant.
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March 22, 2012 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: northeastern Missouri
Posts: 94
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I'm still not clear on what sprout jacking is. Are you taking cuttings of sprouts to root and then planting out (for the following year's seed tubers, I assume)?
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Diane CrackpotHippie.com |
March 22, 2012 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: bald hill area thurston county washington
Posts: 312
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That is right.....kinda. I plant in the spring for a harvest I expect to be better than tuber planting. I guess you could start them in a heated greenhouse in dec/jan in small pots make micro tubers for spring planting.
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March 23, 2012 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: northeastern Missouri
Posts: 94
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Better harvest than tuber planting? Cool! Please keep us updated throughout the season, as you have time.
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Diane CrackpotHippie.com |
March 23, 2012 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: bald hill area thurston county washington
Posts: 312
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Last year was my first year planting pull starts and sprout jacks, with VERY promising results. My best yielding plants were from pull starts planted in early july of red thumb. I also got very large uniform tubers and great yield from adirondac blue pull starts. I produced mini tubers from sprout jacks in 4" pots last year, but did not grow any in the garden. I believe I will get the best harvest from the sprout jacks and worst from tubers, with pull starts somewhere in the middle.
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March 24, 2012 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Medbury, New Zealand
Posts: 1,881
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I'm a bit like Diane in that i dont quite understand how its done,so in that first photo Wendy are you cutting the tip off and replanting that??
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Richard |
March 24, 2012 | #7 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: MA
Posts: 776
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Well I am not the one cutting the tip LOL but I guess what Doug is trying to do is growing the meristem end and using that to multiply the plants as cuttings. I believe his post at tatermater went into more detail as he is dipping them in a bleach solution or something to try eliminate patogens. I wish I have more time to play too but too many things this year.
Quote:
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Wendy |
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March 24, 2012 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Medbury, New Zealand
Posts: 1,881
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Oops sorry its Doug thread,think i'm needing glasses
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Richard |
March 24, 2012 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: bald hill area thurston county washington
Posts: 312
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Wendy is right, I had been dipping them in a 20% bleach solution (about 2 second swish), then rinseing well before planting to deal with any exterior bacteria or spores. I have done some without the bleach dip, but end up with more plants that get blemishes and such (i.e. losses).
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March 26, 2012 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 20
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Are pull starts and sprout jacks one and the same?
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March 26, 2012 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: bald hill area thurston county washington
Posts: 312
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sprout jacks are just smaller and done in the dark, and don't have roots.Where as pull starts are tubers placed in dirt in a lighted position, and have roots and leaves when taken.
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June 30, 2012 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: bald hill area thurston county washington
Posts: 312
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This particular sprout jack did not fair well (none of the skagit vail did), but the rest of the ones I took this day are now in full flower, and some have been harvested for eating (skagit valley gold, toro azule, and purple majesty). I assume many of them have formed tubers, but will wait for them to die down before looking.
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