When to pull the plants?

[FreyaFL]

I have several indeterminate plants that are still producing, though not nearly as much, but are looking quite sad. Is there a point when one just decides that "this plant really has to go"? I hate the idea of doing this, but nothing I'm doing seems to make these happy now. (Fertilizing. Epsom salts. Pruning. Etc.) I've had a couple cold nights (not freezing), several really strong wind storms, white flies, labrador retrievers, all these things take their toll from these poor plants. Or, should I just let them keep chugging along for as long as they can go?

Freya

[ginger2778]

Originally Posted by FreyaFL

I have several indeterminate plants that are still producing, though not nearly as much, but are looking quite sad. Is there a point when one just decides that "this plant really has to go"? I hate the idea of doing this, but nothing I'm doing seems to make these happy now. (Fertilizing. Epsom salts. Pruning. Etc.) I've had a couple cold nights (not freezing), several really strong wind storms, white flies, labrador retrievers, all these things take their toll from these poor plants. Or, should I just let them keep chugging along for as long as they can go?

Freya

I think you should let them chug as long as new growth appears, or they have fruit on them. The ones I plant in Late Sept or Oct. usually can hold on until April, most even outlast a 1 night near freezing event. They look awful for a few days or a week then come right back.
The whiteflies can be trouble. Are the leaves still full size and mono-colored, or are they stripey looking with a short size and curling?
Both might indicate TYLCV, and if so , should be pulled ASAP.
Got a picture?
Good news is if you buy some sets at Home Depot or Lowes, they will be able to give you a second whole growth season, if you plant NOW. I even saw Sungold seedlings there. No time to sow seed now though.
Marsha

[FreyaFL]

Originally Posted by ginger2778

I think you should let them chug as long as new growth appears, or they have fruit on them. The ones I plant in Late Sept or Oct. usually can hold on until April, most even outlast a 1 night near freezing event. They look awful for a few days or a week then come right back.
The whiteflies can be trouble. Are the leaves still full size and mono-colored, or are they stripey looking with a short size and curling?
Both might indicate TYLCV, and if so , should be pulled ASAP.
Got a picture?
Good news is if you buy some sets at Home Depot or Lowes, they will be able to give you a second whole growth season, if you plant NOW. I even saw Sungold seedlings there. No time to sow seed now though.
Marsha

Thank you!!! I trimmed MANY leaves that from the plants and was told they look much better (they look bare to me) and fertilized. All but one of the plants has normal leaves. That one plant has the small, curly leaves, but I ran out of plant food a month ago and it started about a week after that. This happened to this same plant at the end of November (I think...) and it recovered. (All my tomatoes are in sub-irrigation planters.) I've just fertilized it and will cross my fingers that that is what it is again.

These plants are all from ones I planted out mid-October (I was new to seed starting down here and didn't even think to start the seeds till mid-September.) I do have a second set of plants that I planted out in late November/early December that are flowering and just starting to fruit. AND I have 4 seedlings that are desperate for transplanting right now, but ... Sungolds, huh? I've been hearing about them ever since joining this forum, but haven't put them on my seed-searching, starting list yet. Still, if I end up removing a couple plants, I'd have room. Thank you for the tip! I'll have to make a trip to HD/Lowes this week now.

(I will go out and take a picture of the poor, naked plants and especially the one with the curly leaves and post it later today. If it is a virus, I want it out and away.)

[FreyaFL]

Just to add...I am REALLY HATING white flies. I mean, REALLY. I feel like I have them under control, but if I ignore them for more than a week, they go crazy. Ugh. If I knew there was an absolutely perfect (totally non-organic, seriously lethal) spray out there for them, that would guarantee death and non-return, I would consider using it. (Probably wouldn't, but I would definitely consider it.)

[ginger2778]

Originally Posted by FreyaFL

Just to add...I am REALLY HATING white flies. I mean, REALLY. I feel like I have them under control, but if I ignore them for more than a week, they go crazy. Ugh. If I knew there was an absolutely perfect (totally non-organic, seriously lethal) spray out there for them, that would guarantee death and non-return, I would consider using it. (Probably wouldn't, but I would definitely consider it.)

Freya, I agree whiteflies are horrible destructive , a plague.
This year I got yellow sticky traps, and for the first time in very many years, I haven't had an issue with thee whiteflies, or thrips, or leaf miners.All 3 are attraced to yellow. They come with the sticky stuff on both sides, you open and invert them, and they have a hole punched in the top. You put a twist tie in the whole and tie them to your trellising. Simple.They are the best thing I have ever seen! I will not ever be gardening without them in the future. You can get 15 of them for about $14 bucks on Amazon. Here's a link.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&key...l_7jx5bsyqdf_b
If you go to the Florida TAG thread and look at my pictures, you will see them hanging up. I bought 2 paks to get the free shipping, they don't go bad so I can keep a few for next season.
Directions say every 25 feet but I do it more like every 5 or 6.
No neem now for about 6 weeks!
-Marsha

[FreyaFL]

Originally Posted by ginger2778

...Directions say every 25 feet but I do it more like every 5 or 6.
No neem now for about 6 weeks!
-Marsha

Really?! Okay. I am ordering these tomorrow. I am SO over white flies.

[mikej]

Hello Freya, I am in the same boat. The end of December my plants were not looking too good so I started some seed. I have 12 Cherokee Purple, 2 German Giant, 5 Better Boy, 5 Tasti-Lee. I started the seed in trays on January 2 and moved them from seed trays into red solo coups on January 14th. They are now about 8" tall with many sets of leaves. The Brandywines have perked up with the warm weather and most plants are producing plenty of tomatoes although they are smaller. I trimmed them way back because the plants were getting so big. I was hoping the tomatoes would ripen up pretty quick by doing that. I am giving them until mid February then I will remove them and plant my seedlings in the garden. Good luck!!!

[FreyaFL]

Originally Posted by mikej

Hello Freya, I am in the same boat. The end of December my plants were not looking too good so I started some seed. I have 12 Cherokee Purple, 2 German Giant, 5 Better Boy, 5 Tasti-Lee. I started the seed in trays on January 2 and moved them from seed trays into red solo coups on January 14th. They are now about 8" tall with many sets of leaves. The Brandywines have perked up with the warm weather and most plants are producing plenty of tomatoes although they are smaller. I trimmed them way back because the plants were getting so big. I was hoping the tomatoes would ripen up pretty quick by doing that. I am giving them until mid February then I will remove them and plant my seedlings in the garden. Good luck!!!

Hi Mikej! The plants you trimmed, are they blooming now or just ripening? (And, aren't Purple Cherokee tomatoes just the best? ) Maybe I'll do the same as you, give them till mid February then remove the bedraggled ones for young plants. I'm still new at all this, it's all a learning experience for me. But, so far, so good!

[mikej]

Freya, They are blooming and ripening. I went out today and trimmed some more back removing alot of blossoms. The tomatoes I have on the plants vary in size. Some are young the size of marbles and some are baseball size. I am still new at this also. I haven't eaten a Cherokee Purple before, for my CP plants are just seedlings. I can say that if they taste better than the Brandywine I dont think I will be able to stand it.

[awsumth]

I'd consider pulling mine in the summer when the sun hits my plants so bad that they need constant water and are covered in whiteflies. Usually I only get whiteflies badly in the summer and never any other part of the year. I'm growing many other plants to attract wildlife to my garden. I can count a few bees and ladybugs every day. I even see bumblebees, which are unusual in Florida.

If your winters are mild you can always cut the stalk and leave about six to eight inches of the stem left. It should grow back, and you'll have enough time to get its strength back.

However, I have always pulled my stunted plants. I find these ones have nematodes or have some type of disease.

Starting seeds sure is fun though! You get to try other varieties and use last year's wisdom to grow stronger plants this year.
Happy gardening!

[Ms. Jitomate]

Mikej, did I read that correctly? You transplanted on Jan 14 and by Jan. 28 they grew 8 inches? I also sowed seeds on Jan. 2 and I waited for the true leaves to appear then I transplanted but they were only 2-2.5 inches back them. I transplanted deep so they are still small. What are you feeding your transplants that they are now 8 inches?

I also have some tomatoes that I planted in October with small tomatoes which are beginning to turn red but they are not getting bigger. And, I had to trim frost damage yesterday to avoid diseases, so they look bare.

[mikej]

Originally Posted by Ms. Jitomate

Mikej, did I read that correctly? You transplanted on Jan 14 and by Jan. 28 they grew 8 inches? I also sowed seeds on Jan. 2 and I waited for the true leaves to appear then I transplanted but they were only 2-2.5 inches back them. I transplanted deep so they are still small. What are you feeding your transplants that they are now 8 inches?

I also have some tomatoes that I planted in October with small tomatoes which are beginning to turn red but they are not getting bigger. And, I had to trim frost damage yesterday to avoid diseases, so they look bare.

On the 14th when I transplanted them in to the cups, I did plant them deeper so more roots would form on the stem. I use Miracle Gro potting soil and watering with well water. After a few days in the cup, if I see no stress I add 1/2 teaspoon of calcium nitrate and 1/2 teaspoon of Miracle Gro tomato food per one gallon of water and use that to keep them moist. I will take a pic for you tomorrow of the plants. I have them in my shop on a table lit by a 4' 2 bulb flourescent light suspended on chains that I can raise and lower. I keep them between 1" and 2" from the top of the plants anywhere from 12 to 14 hrs a day. I just started my hardening off process yesterday and today by putting them in the sun and wind for an hour then back under the lights for the rest of the day.

edit I also have a rotating fan that I use to blow intermittenly on the plants while inside for about 3 hrs per day .