Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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March 6, 2013 | #1 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7
Posts: 10,385
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Data for my book - how you can help! and - about my book!
I guess I should start by telling you a little bit about "the book". It's funny - my wife has been at me for year (and years and years) to finally get a book on tomatoes written, to share my experiences and knowledge. After some dabbling and false starts, I was finally approached by Storey last year and they agreed to put me on contract for my first book - (notice I say "first", because there are others I would like to write). This is going to be more of a general book on tomatoes, but also with my own experiences/points of view highlighted - so will be covering tomato history, varieties, particular varieties that led to my passion with heirlooms, and general culture - seed starting, transplanting, culture, diseases/pests, common myths, recipes. I am a bit over half done with the text (which is due June 1), and we are already scheduling photos. I am fortunate to have the knowledge of other really good books and references and information that have paved the way.....it is all a bit anxiety-producing, but it is really the first step in my transition from corporate change management/project mgt type to full time garden writing and research.....So now you know!
Now to my original query for this thread.... Hey all....I am in deep in my book writing, and thought that I can provide some really helpful (and current) info about the various timings that tomato enthusiasts in various zones/states use. For example, me here in Raleigh, now zone 8 - I start seeds in mid Feb, aiming for a transplant into 3 or 4 inch pots in mid March, which allows for plant out into the garden by early to mid April....then harvest in late June and throughout July and as long as the plants survive. If anyone wants to lend a hand, I'd love to know your state and zone, and when you do each of these activities..... thanks in advance for anyone who wishes to lend a hand and provide some data!
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Craig |
March 6, 2013 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Alabama
Posts: 2,250
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Alabama zone 7b
Seed start mid-February multiple seed into single cells separate the plants and pot up into cell trays the first week of March 48 plants per 11" X 22" tray Let them grow for 6 to 8 weeks total from seed. Plant into the round between the 8th and 15th of April. Early spring plants can be set out by the 15th of March and cover them through any cold weather. Late spring plants can be set out until the 10th of May. A fall crop can be set out the last 2 weeks of July if they are varieties in the range of 55 to 72 days to maturity DarJones |
March 6, 2013 | #3 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7
Posts: 10,385
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thanks Darrel - sets a nice template for what I hope people with share...would love it if every zone gets represented!
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Craig |
March 6, 2013 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: California
Posts: 942
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I am in Zone 9a. I usually start my Tomato seedlings Mid Dec to Mid Jan. I just planted my plants outside (First week of March).
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March 6, 2013 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Alabama 7.5 or 8 depends on who you ask
Posts: 727
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Alabama zone 8
Ditto FusionPower's reply one exception - note: some around here will plant half around mid March (hedging for no frost) and plant the rest mid April. I am not sure what the back up plant plan is if a frost does come. I'm more in line with FusionPower for zone 8 |
March 6, 2013 | #6 |
Tomatoville® Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7
Posts: 10,385
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Any of you who do double season....that would be really interesting - Texas, Florida, etc....thanks! Keep the info coming!
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Craig |
March 6, 2013 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: asdf
Posts: 1,202
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Hardines 10b and climate ZONE 24. Marine-dominated Southern California Coast
Growing season: all year, but periodic freezes have dramatic effects (record lows are 33 degrees to 20 degrees F/1 degree to -7 degrees C). Climate here is oceanic (but warmer than oceanic Zone 17), with cool summers, mild winters. Subtropical plants thrive. -Seed planted by mid January I utilize your method/sunset magazine method of mass plantings in a single yogurt cup. I separate them once they get their first set of true leaves and pot them up in 3.5" pots. -Plan to plant out the first week of March ( I'm delayed this year). Harvest begins in early to mid June and continues as long as the plant survives (I've harvested until mid Nov but there is no reason you couldn't go longer if the plant is healthy) The fruit maturation initially takes more time due to our mild climate(60-70) and morning marine layer that doesnt lift until noon between Apr-Jun. I still go back and watch your videos, I hope you will update your blog this year. |
March 6, 2013 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: ohio
Posts: 4,350
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Here in northern Ohio: We are listed as Zone 5a, but I think we really are closer to zone 6 temperatures on the chart.
I start my Wall O Water tomatoes in early March to be planted out in April I start my outside tomatoes in early - mid April to plant out late May. I like to grow them about 6-8 weeks in 3-cell packs (36 per tray) .
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carolyn k |
March 6, 2013 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Brownville, Ne
Posts: 3,295
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Southern Nebraska zone 5/6
tomato seed start first week of March multiple seeds into single cells transplant single plants into 2 inch 6 pak cells or 2 inch pots the last week of March plant 8"-12" plants into the garden the first week of May or as soon as weather allows
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there's two things money can't buy; true love and home grown tomatoes. |
March 6, 2013 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Iowa
Posts: 390
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Zone 5a~ Iowa
I start Tomatoes feb 1- April 1. Multiple Seeds in pots. Split when they get 2-4 true leaves. harden off in the green house at 40 degrees night time temps. Plant out anywhere from Late March-Mid-May (no later than June 1). Depending on the year. Last year I started taking plants out Mid March (very warm). Some years is Mid-Late April. I wait until night time is about 40. About 80-90% of plants make it to first frost in October. |
March 6, 2013 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 6a - NE Tennessee
Posts: 4,538
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Zone 6a
Seeds in mix 2nd week of March First Pot up usually 1st week of April Average last frost - May 15 Usually buy a mature plant to get early large tomatoes Plants into garden as they mature to where they can handle the great outdoors Planting continues some years well into June Mid-summer harvesting usually heavy on veggies other than tomatoes and peppers. Tomato harvest begins end of June/first of July and continues all the way to frost - usually in October. Just a comment - 2013 is running late due to weather. Temperatures have been 20 to 30 degrees colder than normal. Here it is the first week of March and the ground is still frozen and is under snow cover. I'll start warming up my germination room out in the garage tomorrow. It'll take a few days to warm thing up.
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Ted ________________________ Owner & Sole Operator Of The Muddy Bucket Farm and Tomato Ranch Last edited by ContainerTed; March 6, 2013 at 06:33 PM. |
March 6, 2013 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: South Bend, IN
Posts: 104
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Zone 5 northern Indiana. I have only ever started tomatoes from seed by the wintersowing method (in recyclable plastic jugs sitting outside under the snow). I sow tomato seeds between the end of December and the middle of March. I can open the tops on especially warm days and close them if frosts threaten overnight. They live outside in their mini green houses until after our last frost free date (mid May) and then they get planted into the ground. They never require any hardening off and in my limited experience produce robust seedlings of a comparable size to those available for sale at farmers markets and elsewhere.
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March 6, 2013 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MA/NH Border
Posts: 4,919
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Massachusetts, on the line between zones 5b and 6a, in the northwest corner of Middlesex county.
Start seeds on or near St. Patty's Day. Transplant to larger pots on Patriot's Day (third Monday in April). Plant out to raised beds or grow bags by Memorial Day. Typically I start them in single cells with MG Seed Starting Mix, but this year I'm going with DE. It has worked fantastically for the peppers and eggplants. When they go to larger pots I use MG Potting Mix. The early varieties ripen in early to mid July, but the bulk of the harvest comes in mid-August through mid-September. I will continue to get some poor quality ripening fruit into very early October, but that's about when the plants get pulled. |
March 6, 2013 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Durhamville,NY
Posts: 2,706
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Zone 5b maybe 6a last few years. Temperatures here are triple moderated by water. I'm in a swamp and the ground cools and warms a little slow, I'm about 1 1/2 miles east of Oneida Lake which has some influence and about 40 from Lake Ontario. Last year I started tomatoes 3/31 to 4/5 with the intention I could put them out anywhere out from May 15 to June 10 at the latest. They actually when in 6/13 and 6/14, just in time for the drought. I did get tomatoes just not as many as I should have. When they go out has more to when I can get in the garden with it being wet. Last year it was a combination of rain right when I wanted to plant them and the fact that I stepped on a nail and drove it about two inches into the back of my heal. It took three weeks to heal so I wasn't hobbling and friends helped me get my tomatoes in.
I like to wait until the soil has reached 60ºF to plant most things out. Last edited by Doug9345; March 7, 2013 at 01:41 AM. |
March 6, 2013 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 321
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San Diego County - on the borderline between marine-dominated Southern CA Coast and the Inland Valleys - Zone 10a and climate zone 23.
Many of the same characteristics as Crandrew's location, but a few differences: Growing season: all year, but periodic freezes in Dec and Jan. Last frost date is usually late Jan. Seed planting starts around Jan 15 and continues monthly until June 1st Multiple seeds in single-cell trays; seedlings are separated out into 4 inch containers and then potted up to larger cups once. Planting out usually starts the 2nd or 3rd week of March and continues monthly until early July. Harvest begins in mid June and continues until fall. Later plant outs in June-July are for fall plants that can survive the winter, if there are no really hard freezes. Tomato quality declines in Nov-Dec, as night temps get down into the 40s. Fruit maturation does initially take more time due to the marine-influenced mild climate and morning/all day marine layer in May and June. Plus, we never have truly warm nights (usually lows are in the 60s) until August. So really large beefsteak varieties don't do as well here. Lyn Last edited by LDx4; March 7, 2013 at 01:39 AM. Reason: typo |
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