Tomatoville® Gardening Forums


Notices

Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old March 20, 2013   #1
socalgardengal
Tomatovillian™
 
socalgardengal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: San Diego,Ca
Posts: 462
Default Using baking soda for powdery mildew??

I noticed a few small spots of mildew on my plants,probably from watering. Is this method safe and organic? My mom told me about it but just want to be sure it's ok first and if so, how do I make it? Thanks.
socalgardengal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 20, 2013   #2
Durgan
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Brantford, ON, Canada
Posts: 1,341
Default

My experience is soda does nothing. About four years ago my area was devastated with Downey mildew. Nothing worked to stop it. My view is you have to live with it and your plants will die.

The only precaution that I take is to never wet the vegetation if watering. Of course, this avails nothing if one has a very wet season.
Durgan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 20, 2013   #3
carolyn137
Moderator Emeritus
 
carolyn137's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by socalgardengal View Post
I noticed a few small spots of mildew on my plants,probably from watering. Is this method safe and organic? My mom told me about it but just want to be sure it's ok first and if so, how do I make it? Thanks.
Baking Soda works marginally to help prevent mildew on Zinnias andMonarda ( beebalm) andsomeothers, bu tall that I know who have used it for Powdery Mildew, and there are two kinds of that, has not been successful.

Different fungi that cause Powdery Mildew have different genera and species and expressions and so all cannot be treated the same.

Carolyn
__________________
Carolyn
carolyn137 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 20, 2013   #4
socalgardengal
Tomatovillian™
 
socalgardengal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: San Diego,Ca
Posts: 462
Default

Any suggestions???Or should I just pull off the leaves that have it?
socalgardengal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 20, 2013   #5
LDx4
Tomatovillian™
 
LDx4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 321
Default

You can buy some Neem oil spray or 3-in-1 spray made by GardenSafe at either HD or Lowe's in our area. I usually get it at Lowe's. Follow the directions on the bottle and spray your plants. Are your plants already outside? It does have a strong odor, so you'll want to do it outside and in the early morning hours. Neem oil is a good product and also organic.

Lyn
LDx4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 20, 2013   #6
mdvpc
Tomatoville® Moderator
 
mdvpc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 4,386
Default

Take a look at GreenCure and see if you want to try it. I use it on cukes and it works on them.
__________________
Michael
mdvpc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 20, 2013   #7
Tonio
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 148
Default

Powdery mildew got all my toms and cukes, zukes last year.
With tom's I got a good harvest in june-considering the PM, and cukes just a few pickin's- root knot nematodes also helped end the plants. And the zukes( just 1 plant) I got 5 zukies. They all succumbed to PM.

I tried serenade- it was too late, I tried baking soda- nada, then I tried neem oil- and it appeared to slow down the PM spread, but it does not cure it. From researching, I found nothing cures PM.

This year pushing the early planting envelope, I just transplanted my toms today- woo hoo- and yes I had a brew after done) Will I ever learn to not start seeds so early?? I do have a few back ups I inoculated with actinovate- in the pots prior to transplant, in the hole, and after planting. I also pre treated the beds and tom's, while hardening off, 1 week prior with actinovate and molasses to get the microbes working.

Will see how it goes, but for PM, you need to pre treat it, and PM still might take down the plants. When I say take down, you can slow the progress, and may get marginal fruiting- at least to ripen them, but eventually the plants will need to be pulled as not to spread the disease to other beds if close by. At least in my microclimate
Tonio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 20, 2013   #8
Tonio
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 148
Default

I've been checking out Greencure, may give it a go.
Tonio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 20, 2013   #9
LDx4
Tomatovillian™
 
LDx4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 321
Default

Tonio,

I had the same experience as you did with the PM, but then last year I started the season by spraying Neem every 5 -7 days, without fail, and then I started alternating weeks with Actinovate+Excel. Last year was the first year that PM didn't take down my cukes! I still had problems with early blight and other fungus crud, but at least the PM stayed under control. Of course, my microclimate might be a little dryer than yours. Staying on a regular spraying schedule worked the best for me.
Lyn
LDx4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 20, 2013   #10
socalgardengal
Tomatovillian™
 
socalgardengal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: San Diego,Ca
Posts: 462
Default

Neem oil is on my list. Gonna check out Greencure for sure. So for the moment I'm taking off the leaves and throwing it in the trash. It was a small spot. I should water from the bottom also Thank you
socalgardengal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 20, 2013   #11
Cole_Robbie
Tomatovillian™
 
Cole_Robbie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
Default

I have read about spraying a milk and water mixture but have not tried it.
Cole_Robbie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 20, 2013   #12
Tonio
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 148
Default

definately do not overhead water, and avoid wetting the foliage and stem at all costs .
Lyn, I think I do get more pressure from the south and being closer to the ocean and a slope/mini valley -enclosed setting, I get alot mildew and crap floating in and stays. Neighbors weeds are of no help with vectoring other possible viruses. Last year was a doozie.
Keeping on schedule make be the key.
Tonio is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 20, 2013   #13
bwaynef
Tomatovillian™
 
bwaynef's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Clemson SC
Posts: 143
Default

I've treated Powdery Mildew on Crape Myrtles w/ a milk-water mix (1:10). It was pretty late in the year, but the PM didn't come back after treatment before the leaves fell off.

Is PM on CM the same as PM on tomatoes?
bwaynef is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 20, 2013   #14
socalgardengal
Tomatovillian™
 
socalgardengal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: San Diego,Ca
Posts: 462
Default

I also live at the coast. Lots of fog and cloudy days and salty air. I have to read about the milk mixture.
socalgardengal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 20, 2013   #15
emcd124
Tomatovillian™
 
emcd124's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: South Bend, IN
Posts: 104
Default

If I remember right, i've read somewhere that you can also sprinkle corn meal or corn grits on the soil early in the season as a preventative. Its supposed to cultivate a kind of bacteria thats harmful to the PM but doesnt affect the plants. I've not yet tried it myself, but going to try it as a preventative this year.
emcd124 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:12 PM.


★ Tomatoville® is a registered trademark of Commerce Holdings, LLC ★ All Content ©2022 Commerce Holdings, LLC ★