A garden is only as good as the ground that it's planted in. Discussion forum for the many ways to improve the soil where we plant our gardens.
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June 4, 2013 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Zone 5B Illinois
Posts: 402
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I decided to try a community garden, need some help...
As the title says, I ran out of room and decided to try a local community garden. I have no idea what the soil is like. Should I test it? Or just start amending it?
I would like to improve the soil...what should I add to it? Mushroom compost, etc? I intend to plant 6 heirloom tomato plants. Some pole beans, squash, zucchini, etc. it is 20' x 20' Any tips/suggestions are greatly appreciated. Andrea Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
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Andrea |
June 4, 2013 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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By all means test it. However it is a bit late to make any big changes. By the time the results are back your plants should already be growing!
But there are some generic things you can do. 1) Incorporate some good composted organic material in the transplant holes and the squash hills before you seed. 2) Inoculate the beans as you plant the seeds to fix nitrogen. 3) Use a good compost tea (AACT) or seaweed/emulsified fish extract as foliar spray. 4) Paper and mulch the whole 20X20 area. 5) Observe closely when you work the area. Look for signs of anything that might be a problem later. For example: How many worms are in the soil? Is the soil rich and loamy? Drainage? Insects, spiders, etc... good or bad? Try to pay attention to everything. 6) Talk to the other gardeners in the community plot. They know the particular conditions there better than anyone. 7) Good luck!
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Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture Last edited by Redbaron; June 4, 2013 at 03:00 PM. |
June 4, 2013 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Zone 5B Illinois
Posts: 402
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Thanks, Scott!!!
Here are the guidelines for the Community Garden... Garden Guidelines: By accepting this community garden plot, you agree to the following rules for the garden: 1. Gardening courtesy and communication: One of the main goals in community gardening is to work together or next to each other in relative harmony. Please be courteous in all interactions. Respect the peace of neighbors; no loud noise or music, foul language or disrespectful conduct, alcohol or drug use is permitted at the Community Garden. Smoking must be kept outside the garden area as tobacco can carry viruses which are harmful to vegetables. Garden managers will check plots regularly to encourage productive use by participants. 2. Definition of a “working garden”: A garden plot must be maintained, planted or mulched, and stay within its boundaries. Plots must not be consistently weedy, untended or filled with debris. During the growing season, gardeners are expected to spend at least two hours per week (on average) tending the plot. 3. Gardening Hours: Gardening hours are from 6:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. The use of power equipment is restricted to the hours of 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. 4. What is appropriate to grow: Vegetables, herbs, flowers and small fruit plants for home consumption and donation are appropriate. No large structures, trees, or large collection of non-plant items are allowed. Crops must be legal and for personal use or donation. 5. Gardening Season: Gardeners are responsible for keeping the plot gardened, cover-cropped or mulched. For most gardeners, the growing season will be from April or May until August or September. Some gardeners, however, will put in early spring crops as early as February, and others may have crops growing late in the fall. No matter what crops you decide to plant, you are responsible for basic plot maintenance. Weedy plots are subject to warning and loss of garden privileges. Perennial crops and some annual hardy winter crops may be over-wintered, but should be maintained. 6. Water Availability: Water in the gardens is turned on by April 1 and shut-off by October 31. 7. Spring Preparation & Planting: By May 15 your garden should be in the “getting started” stage. This deadline exists to motivate our gardeners to show that they are going to use the garden plot, and not waste it. Some garden plots are reserved with the best of intentions, but end up not being planted. If you haven’t started preparations by this date, there is probably someone who would be willing to take over your plot. The minimum requirements of “getting started” include: o Weeding and planting; edging weeds along borders o Working the soil in preparation for planting o Harvesting of crops, if appropriate o Pathway clean-up 8. Summer Planting and Growing: PLANTING: By June 1, there should be substantial progress towards a productive garden, which includes: o At least half of the plot(s) worked and planted o Removal of remaining weeds o Establishing and caring for plants o Continued pathway maintenance By June 15, there should be gardening activity, and weeding throughout the entire plot. If these deadlines are not met, you plot will be offered to the next person(s) on the waiting list and your registration fee will be forfeited. 9. Fall Harvest and Clean-up: Annual crops should be harvested and the plants cleaned up and composted. Garden plots should be cover-cropped, and/or mulched around perennial plants by October 31. 10. No Garbage Service: There is no garbage service at the Community Garden. Please keep trash and litter cleared from your plot and take it home for disposal. 11. Garden Debris: Garden compost bins are available for your use from mid-spring until harvest time in the fall. Please use these compost bins ONLY for garden debris waste (no garbage or plastic) and ONLY for materials from the Community gardens – not from your home. 12. Pets in the Garden: Dogs and other pets are not allowed in the garden area. 13. Plot Registration and Fee Required Annually: Plots are $25.00 each annually and are not transferable without the permission of the Environmental Commission Community Garden Committee. Gardeners are responsible for keeping addresses and phone numbers current with the coordinator. 14. No refunds: The garden registration fee you pay only partially covers the costs of operating the Community Garden Program. If you give up your garden plot after you have registered or if you fail to maintain your plot and it is transferred to another gardener, your plot fee will not be refunded. 15. Pathways: The Village does not mow or provide regular upkeep to the pathways or other common areas at the Community Garden. Rather, each gardener is responsible for keeping the surrounding pathways weeded and well tended. Your garden space may stop at the edge of your plot—but your responsibility includes the pathways surrounding your garden . Everything you plant must remain within the perimeters of the designated plots, allowing adequate space for growth and keeping pathways clear. Allow for access within your own plot. 16. Vegetable Theft: Any gardener reported for taking vegetables, flowers or supplies from another’s plot may have their garden privileges revoked. Gardeners are encouraged to harvest your crop regularly to reduce the temptation of theft by others. 17. Natural Gardening Encouraged: Use of herbicides and/or weed killers is prohibited. Use of chemicals or propellants banned by the federal, state, or local government, shall be grounds for forfeiture of the privilege to use the Community Garden. Gardeners are encouraged to use natural gardening techniques. Free brochures will be available with suggestions for natural gardening techniques. 18. Children in the Garden: Children are encouraged to garden with their parents or grandparents, but they must stay on the paths of their assigned garden without going through the plots of other gardeners. 19. Rodents, Other Animals and Fences: Because rodents and other wild animals may be prevalent in the undeveloped area surrounding the various garden sites, it will be the responsibility of the individual gardener to control these pests within their own garden space. Non-permanent fencing is allowed, but may not cross garden pathways. 20. Composting: On-site composting is encouraged, but must be limited to compostable materials produced at the community garden site . 21. Newspaper Mulching: Newspaper is not allowed as a mulching agent/weed barrier. Although this may be an acceptable practice in home-gardens, the Environmental Commission does not want complaints from other gardeners and from area residents, about newspapers blowing around the area because they were not adequately covered up and maintained. 22. Gleaning Program: Often times a problem that arises with community gardens is that produce goes to waste in the field during harvest time. We will be partnering with"" by collecting “extra” produce for donation to the food pantry which serves approximately 200 families per week. Gardeners wishing to participate in the “Growing & Giving” gleaning effort will be notified in advance when to harvest what they need. Any ripe produce left in your plot will be collected, washed, chilled, prepared and delivered to "" the next day.
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Andrea Last edited by Dork Fish; June 4, 2013 at 04:52 PM. |
June 4, 2013 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Crystal Lake IL
Posts: 2,484
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Mushroom compost is always good.
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Tracy |
June 4, 2013 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,488
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No News Papers! Bummer! Time to roll out the cardboard or bogus paper!
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Scott AKA The Redbaron "Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system." Bill Mollison co-founder of permaculture |
June 4, 2013 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Crystal Lake IL
Posts: 2,484
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Sams Club has a giant roll of heavy black garden cloth, you'd need the little stakes too. That works pretty well.
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Tracy |
June 4, 2013 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Zone 5B Illinois
Posts: 402
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Hmmm, I think I might have some...
Now I need to find some 4x4 posts. Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
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Andrea |
June 4, 2013 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Zone 5B Illinois
Posts: 402
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Actually, I think I will use T- posts. They will be easier to store.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
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Andrea |
June 4, 2013 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Crystal Lake IL
Posts: 2,484
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T-posts are great for florida weave - you'd need 4 for your 6 tomatoes in a row. You need really tall ones though for the heirloom plants. I've usually got the best deal at Farm and Fleet lately - I've got an email coupon for 13% off, I'll send it to you just in case.
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Tracy |
June 4, 2013 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Zone 5B Illinois
Posts: 402
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Awesome! Thank you
I have five in a row. Kind of messes things up a bit.
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Andrea |
June 5, 2013 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Crystal Lake IL
Posts: 2,484
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Hmmm... I'd have thought 20 feet would be perfection for 6 plants
Well I'm sure it'll work out great.
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Tracy |
June 5, 2013 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Zone 5B Illinois
Posts: 402
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Lol, maybe I looked at it wrong. :rolleyes: I can probably make that work.
I have to go rent a tiller today, I can't get the one a borrowed to stay running. I do have fabric for weeds. Yeah Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
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Andrea |
June 5, 2013 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Zone 5B Illinois
Posts: 402
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Ugh, finally finished. I planted 24 tomato plants (eye roll). I was only going to plant 12. I hope I can put 3 U posts per row instead of 4. That will save a little money.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
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Andrea |
June 5, 2013 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Crystal Lake IL
Posts: 2,484
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hahaha there's always room for more
You may get away with 3 plants between each post, I haven't tried that before. I'd think the worst that would happen would be that it would sag more.
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Tracy |
June 6, 2013 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Zone 5B Illinois
Posts: 402
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I didn't plant cucumbers, pole beans, lettuce and Swiss chard like I wanted to. Lol maybe I should get another plot!
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
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Andrea |
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