Rosella Purple

[Labradors2]

I planted Dwarf Rosella Purple and Dwarf Arctic Rose seeds on November 8th. RP sprouted first and the two seedlings looked the most robust so I had high hopes for them.

I potted both varieties up, when they were ready, into larger containers at about the same time and both seemed happy.

Now I am concerned because AR has two 2" wide green tomatoes and lots of yellow flowers while RP seems prone to sunscald (on those rare 60 degree days when she is allowed outside), and has barely any flower buds. There is only one flower bud that is only just about to open, and the rest are still miniscule. Interestingly, some of the flower buds are growing along the stem, rather than in the leaf axis.

Is there something wrong with my RP or is she just a heck of a lot later to perform than AR?

Linda

[nctomatoman]

Rosella Purple is a significantly later tomato than Dwarf Arctic Rose, in my view....but we are learning about such things as they are more widely grown and people in different areas start reporting back.

[carolyn137]

Originally Posted by Labradors2

I planted Dwarf Rosella Purple and Dwarf Arctic Rose seeds on November 8th. RP sprouted first and the two seedlings looked the most robust so I had high hopes for them.

I potted both varieties up, when they were ready, into larger containers at about the same time and both seemed happy.

Now I am concerned because AR has two 2" wide green tomatoes and lots of yellow flowers while RP seems prone to sunscald (on those rare 60 degree days when she is allowed outside), and has barely any flower buds. There is only one flower bud that is only just about to open, and the rest are still miniscule. Interestingly, some of the flower buds are growing along the stem, rather than in the leaf axis.

Is there something wrong with my RP or is she just a heck of a lot later to perform than AR?

Linda

Linda, I haven't grow either of those varieties, but I do have two questions.

Are you going to be raising the plants to maturity in a greenhouse? Otherwise I'm wondering why you sowed the seeds in early November.

Second, what is the evidence for sunscald? And putting them out on 60F sunny days. Yes, sunscald can occur on foliage but the strength of the suns rays at this time of the year cannot result in sunscald, the sun is just too low in the sky. And obviously no fruits yet, but sunscald is more often seen on fruits than foliage, and if on foliage it's nothing to worry about.

Carolyn

[Labradors2]

Hi Craig,

I wonder if it's just that Dwarf Arctic Rose is extremely early. I'm also growing Red Robins and a very early yellow cherry, so poor Rosella is being shown up and causing me concern because she has NO FRUIT - boo hoo!

Carolyn,

I'm growing these tomatoes to eat (hopefully, in March/early April) before we return home to the frozen north. It's a lot of work for such little reward, but I was very curious to try these two dwarfs, so why not? I think the Red Robins, are a better idea as they are loaded with green fruit.

The sunscald is weird. None of the others has this problem. I just went and looked again and I wonder if it's a bit of variegation? I took some pics and will see if I can figure out how to attach them. The leaves are very brittle. I just broke one myself while photographing it, and I have to be very careful that my Labrador doesn't get too close with that lethal waggy tail.

Linda

[carolyn137]

Originally Posted by Labradors2

Hi Craig,

I wonder if it's just that Dwarf Arctic Rose is extremely early. I'm also growing Red Robins and a very early yellow cherry, so poor Rosella is being shown up and causing me concern because she has NO FRUIT - boo hoo!

Carolyn,

I'm growing these tomatoes to eat (hopefully, in March/early April) before we return home to the frozen north. It's a lot of work for such little reward, but I was very curious to try these two dwarfs, so why not? I think the Red Robins, are a better idea as they are loaded with green fruit.

The sunscald is weird. None of the others has this problem. I just went and looked again and I wonder if it's a bit of variegation? I took some pics and will see if I can figure out how to attach them. The leaves are very brittle. I just broke one myself while photographing it, and I have to be very careful that my Labrador doesn't get too close with that lethal waggy tail.

Linda

Somehow I missed the fact that you were not in Ontario, so I understand now why you planted when you did.

Carolyn

[Labradors2]

Pictures of Rosella Purple leaves.

[Heritage]

Linda,

Dwarf Arctic Rose is a very early determinate and sets fruit readily (it may be parthenocarpic). Rosella Purple can be finicky and may not set fruit predictably when grown indoors. Hand vibration of the trusses will improve the percentage of fruit set with Rosella Purple.

The variegation you show is not sunburn, and it is not normal for Rosella Purple. How many days was the plant introduced to the outdoors before the variegation appeared, or was it variegated as a seedling? Have you seen any aphids or thrips on the plants?

Steve

[carolyn137]

Originally Posted by Heritage

Linda,

Dwarf Arctic Rose is a very early determinate and sets fruit readily (it may be parthenocarpic). Rosella Purple can be finicky and may not set fruit predictably when grown indoors. Hand vibration of the trusses will improve the percentage of fruit set with Rosella Purple.

The variegation you show is not sunburn, and it is not normal for Rosella Purple. How many days was the plant introduced to the outdoors before the variegation appeared, or was it variegated as a seedling? Have you seen any aphids or thrips on the plants?

Steve

I just looked at the foliage pictures and agree with Steve that it's not sunburn. But it doesn't appear to look like any variegation I've seen either.

Is it possible that in some way it's weather related b'c I can see that the midribs look kinda bleached out as do other areas on the leaves, especially near the edges.

Carolyn

[Labradors2]

I don't know anything about variegation in tomatoes, but it seems odd to me that the larger leaves would show it when the younger (well-formed) leaves do not.

I only put the pots outside when my temperature gauge reads around 60 degrees, which means it could be cooler, but the sun brings the temperature up, and I place the containers in a sheltered spot. There is often some wind, but they have not been out in any kind of precipitation.

Linda

Originally Posted by carolyn137

I just looked at the foliage pictures and agree with Steve that it's not sunburn. But it doesn't appear to look like any variegation I've seen either.

Is it possible that in some way it's weather related b'c I can see that the midribs look kinda bleached out as do other areas on the leaves, especially near the edges.

Carolyn

[Labradors2]

Thanks Steve,

I'll definitely jiggle the flowers on Rosella Purple once they open up! She was not variegated as a seedling and was quite large when I first noticed the "variegation". I haven't seen aphids on her but they ARE around. Could they have caused it?

Linda

[Heritage]

Linda,

Is it possible to post a photo of the new growth from that Rosella Purple? Also, a close up of one of the 'most variegated' leaves would be helpful. You have an interesting looking plant.

Steve

[Heritage]

Also, is it safe to assume Red Robin, the yellow cherry, and Dwarf Arctic Rose are getting the same treatment (potting soil, outdoor exposure, fertilizer, water, etc) as the Rosella Purple plant, and yet show no symptoms? Thanks.

[Labradors2]

Hi Steve,

I tried to take some photo's, but they didn't come out very well at night so I'll try again tomorrow in daylight.

Yes, the dwarfs and the cherry are getting the same treatment. The Red Robins are in smaller pots and go under a grow light in the evenings.

Linda

[Labradors2]

Here are two more pictures. One is the top of the plant with the flower bud that looks perfectly normal and green. The second is my attempt at a close-up of the "variegation". Despite taking numerous pictures using macro, super macro, flash and no-flash, it was harder than I thought to get a decent close-up pic. This is the best I could manage - sorry.

Linda

[Heritage]

Originally Posted by Labradors2

Here are two more pictures. One is the top of the plant with the flower bud that looks perfectly normal and green. The second is my attempt at a close-up of the "variegation". Despite taking numerous pictures using macro, super macro, flash and no-flash, it was harder than I thought to get a decent close-up pic. This is the best I could manage - sorry.

Linda

Thanks, Linda. Web photos, even at their best, are not a good substitute for actually having the plant in hand, but I will make a recommendation anyway

If you were growing several hundred plants I would recommend you pull the plant, bag it, and put it in the trash. (Actually, I would recommend a workup for the virus diseases of tomato first) The combination of a brittle leaf/stem with a mosaic pattern is generally not a good sign and if I had a plant showing those symptoms I would destroy it.

However, if you only have 4 plants and they have been around each since the seedling stage, then there is a chance they are all already infected IF what you have is one of the mechanically transmitted viruses. Also, there are other, less harmful, conditions/diseases that can cause the same symptoms I see in your photo. So, in your case there probably isn't any advantage to destroying the plant since any harmful cross infection has probably already occurred. However, if you are curious, there is a county extension agency near you that may be helpful in diagnosing the symptoms you are showing. PM me if you want the link to your local agency.

Good luck!
Steve