What Soil to start seedlings?

bny806 · March 2, 2014

Hello! I am new to all of this... I started with seeds a month or so ago, warming mats, grow lights etc.. but I think I over watered, as My tomato plants started looking bad (I will try to attach a pic). .. Anyhow, I used miracle grow seed starting potting soil for most of them, and used the organic miracle grow one for others - the organic one must have had larvae in it, as these tiny white/purplish gnat looking things were ll over the soil! They eventually went away - but I don't know if they contributed to the damage...

So, I am starting my tomatoes over - so sad to have lost all that hard work!!! Is the miracle grow a bad mix to use? I am afraid my tomatos have a fungus, so I do want quality mix to start these new ones .. THanks for any advice!

(if anyone can tell me what my tomatoes look like on the attached pic - Virus, fungus? or just plain over watering?, I'd appreciate it! I don't want to make the same mistake with this new batch)!!!

RayR · March 6, 2014

The picture resolution is a bit too small to see any detail. A side view of the plants would be helpful too as well as a closeup of the bottom of the affected leaves.
I'm just guessing but you might have spider mites. They are too small to see with the naked eye, you'll need a 10X or better magnifier and examine the bottom surface of the leaves.
Also what have you been using to fertilize the seedlings—if anything?

Cole_Robbie · March 8, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by RayR

I'm just guessing but you might have spider mites. They are too small to see with the naked eye, you'll need a 10X or better magnifier and examine the bottom surface of the leaves.

There are I think two most common types of spider mites. One looks black and the other is reddish. I know the black ones can be seen fairly easily without magnification; I think the red can, too, although obviously using a magnifying glass doesn't hurt.

People miss seeing them because they hide on the underside of leaves. When I first got mites, I didn't realize they were mites, because I thought mites were invisible. The ones I had were just nice and fat from eating my plants.

matilda'skid · March 6, 2014

Poor drainage can do bad things to your plants. When the roots don't get enough air because they are water logged, they die. Then the top of the plant looks awful. Sometimes when they start looking bad, you do other things to try to fix them - like more fertilizer or Epson salts etc. I would mix some perlite in with your potting mix. Also it is easier for me to use potting mix that has a little fertilizer in it. Some seed starters have no fertilizer at all. Fine mixes are harder for me. I start my seeds in soil less potting mix with added perlite because I have had no luck with things like Jiffy Mix.

ScottinAtlanta · March 6, 2014

We've all been, so don't despair. Over watering is a common mistake for seedlings, as was pointed out above. Be careful!

Labradors2 · March 6, 2014

I've had bad luck with Miracle Grow seed starter. It seems to me that it's always full of fungus gnat eggs which hatch and cause problems. My tomato seedlings usually survive the onslaught, but the Basil seems to be more bothered by them and the gnats are difficult to get rid of.

One winter I bought MG "organic", and when I turned over the massive bag (after I had filled all my containers) I noticed that it said "not for containers". I used it anyway, and my tomatoes did very poorly. Never again! I think that was my fault, as I have learned here that containers should only be filled with "soil less mix".

Linda

Durgan · March 6, 2014

May I suggest there is too much emphasis on the soil medium. In most cases it is almost irrelevant as long as it is not too heavy. At one time I use to use plain old garden soil. Now I modify since ingredients are readily available.
http://www.durgan.org/URL/?IEVCS 11 September 2013 Seedling Soil

Variables which are the most important for germination are heat and moisture. Light is not necessary. For growth the plant needs light, and pure sunlight being the most desireable. Over watering is a common occurrence.

RJGlew · March 6, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Durgan

May I suggest there is too much emphasis on the soil medium.

Agreed for me. I simply buy on-sale bags of good potting at the end of the season to use in the following spring - this year it will be President's Choice Magic Soil. Perhaps I have just been lucky since I only start simple stuff like tomatoes, peppers, cucumber, dahlia, zinnia, marigold, gazania, cosmos etc.

bny806 · March 6, 2014

Thank yall so much! I really appreciate it! It's my first year of starting from seed, and I really want to have success!!! I ended up getting rid of the seedlings.. the top leaves/new growth started getting spots on them too.. though they were continuing to grow, I didnt' like that they were losing leaves and had these spots.. I had backed off watering them a lot in the past week or two.. I was worried if they had a fungus or something that I didnt' want to continue putting effort in them , just to put them in my garden bed and contaminate my garden bed.. soo figured I'd better just start over sooner than later and not risk if it's blight or wilt or something contaimating the beds.. So, I got ferti-lome ultimate soil and new seed ill start and water much less this time around! Any other advice is greatly appreciated, I will be super upset if this round goes badly too! We use a lot of tomatoes!

RJGlew · March 6, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by bny806

Any other advice is greatly appreciated, I will be super upset if this round goes badly too! We use a lot of tomatoes!

This site is worth a quick look:

http://www.waynesthisandthat.com/transplants.htm

feldon30 · March 6, 2014

My advice is, you cannot pay ENOUGH attention to the soil medium. Seeds are extremely sensitive to soilborne disease. A sterile, soilless starting mix is strongly recommended, as are correct watering techniques and using sterilized tools and pots.

Urbanfarmer · March 6, 2014

Take the head-scratching out of the equation: use horticultural-grade rockwool cubes or stuff bulk rockwool in starter pots. Water from germination every time with a complete fertilizer at 1/3-1/2 strength. Go to full-strength when they reach 4" tall. Presto! Healthy, no-worry tomato plants.

As long as you have drain holes, you can't overwater rockwool. No bugs, no inherent disease, no drainage problems, no guesswork. Even when soaked, rockwool has a lot of oxygen. Used in professional greenhouses world-wide.

We've used potting mixes, but rockwool is consistent, predictable, and produces massive root growth. Transplants into any medium.

Bladefan · March 6, 2014

Fox farms light warrior if you can find it in your area. I have had great success using it...

MissS · March 6, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Urbanfarmer

Take the head-scratching out of the equation: use horticultural-grade rockwool cubes or stuff bulk rockwool in starter pots. Water from germination every time with a complete fertilizer at 1/3-1/2 strength. Go to full-strength when they reach 4" tall. Presto! Healthy, no-worry tomato plants.

As long as you have drain holes, you can't overwater rockwool. No bugs, no inherent disease, no drainage problems, no guesswork. Even when soaked, rockwool has a lot of oxygen. Used in professional greenhouses world-wide.

We've used potting mixes, but rockwool is consistent, predictable, and produces massive root growth. Transplants into any medium.

Thank you for posting this. I always wondered what that little cube of stuff was that was in my store bought starts. Now I know. I am looking into this stuff.
Patti

tnpeppers · March 8, 2014

Is anyone else using Urban Farms' Vegetable Fertilizer on their seedlings? I sowed my seed with a misting of a weak VF solution (1/2 tsp/gallon), and the results have been spectacular. I will continue using the Urban Farm products this year, just to see what happens. The Texas Tomato Food worked wonders for me last year, and I am anxious to see what an entire season of using their products does for my tomatoes (and peppers).

March 6, 2014	#11
feldon30 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2006 Location: Rock Hill, SC Posts: 5,346	My advice is, you cannot pay ENOUGH attention to the soil medium. Seeds are extremely sensitive to soilborne disease. A sterile, soilless starting mix is strongly recommended, as are correct watering techniques and using sterilized tools and pots. __________________ [SIZE="3"]I've relaunched my gardening website -- [B]TheUnconventionalTomato.com[/B][/SIZE] * [I][SIZE="1"]*I'm not allowed to post weblinks so you'll have to copy-paste it manually.[/SIZE][/I]

March 6, 2014	#12
Urbanfarmer Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Freeport, Texas Posts: 134	Take the head-scratching out of the equation: use horticultural-grade rockwool cubes or stuff bulk rockwool in starter pots. Water from germination every time with a complete fertilizer at 1/3-1/2 strength. Go to full-strength when they reach 4" tall. Presto! Healthy, no-worry tomato plants. As long as you have drain holes, you can't overwater rockwool. No bugs, no inherent disease, no drainage problems, no guesswork. Even when soaked, rockwool has a lot of oxygen. Used in professional greenhouses world-wide. We've used potting mixes, but rockwool is consistent, predictable, and produces massive root growth. Transplants into any medium. __________________ theurbanfarm.com

March 6, 2014	#2
RayR Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Cheektowaga, NY Posts: 2,466	The picture resolution is a bit too small to see any detail. A side view of the plants would be helpful too as well as a closeup of the bottom of the affected leaves. I'm just guessing but you might have spider mites. They are too small to see with the naked eye, you'll need a 10X or better magnifier and examine the bottom surface of the leaves. Also what have you been using to fertilize the seedlings—if anything?

March 6, 2014	#4
matilda'skid Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Missouri Posts: 309	Poor drainage can do bad things to your plants. When the roots don't get enough air because they are water logged, they die. Then the top of the plant looks awful. Sometimes when they start looking bad, you do other things to try to fix them - like more fertilizer or Epson salts etc. I would mix some perlite in with your potting mix. Also it is easier for me to use potting mix that has a little fertilizer in it. Some seed starters have no fertilizer at all. Fine mixes are harder for me. I start my seeds in soil less potting mix with added perlite because I have had no luck with things like Jiffy Mix.

March 6, 2014	#5
ScottinAtlanta Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Atlanta, Georgia Posts: 2,593	We've all been, so don't despair. Over watering is a common mistake for seedlings, as was pointed out above. Be careful!

March 6, 2014	#6
Labradors2 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Ontario Posts: 3,896	I've had bad luck with Miracle Grow seed starter. It seems to me that it's always full of fungus gnat eggs which hatch and cause problems. My tomato seedlings usually survive the onslaught, but the Basil seems to be more bothered by them and the gnats are difficult to get rid of. One winter I bought MG "organic", and when I turned over the massive bag (after I had filled all my containers) I noticed that it said "not for containers". I used it anyway, and my tomatoes did very poorly. Never again! I think that was my fault, as I have learned here that containers should only be filled with "soil less mix". Linda

March 6, 2014	#7
Durgan Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Brantford, ON, Canada Posts: 1,341	May I suggest there is too much emphasis on the soil medium. In most cases it is almost irrelevant as long as it is not too heavy. At one time I use to use plain old garden soil. Now I modify since ingredients are readily available. http://www.durgan.org/URL/?IEVCS 11 September 2013 Seedling Soil Variables which are the most important for germination are heat and moisture. Light is not necessary. For growth the plant needs light, and pure sunlight being the most desireable. Over watering is a common occurrence.

March 6, 2014	#9
bny806 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: me Posts: 7	Thank yall so much! I really appreciate it! It's my first year of starting from seed, and I really want to have success!!! I ended up getting rid of the seedlings.. the top leaves/new growth started getting spots on them too.. though they were continuing to grow, I didnt' like that they were losing leaves and had these spots.. I had backed off watering them a lot in the past week or two.. I was worried if they had a fungus or something that I didnt' want to continue putting effort in them , just to put them in my garden bed and contaminate my garden bed.. soo figured I'd better just start over sooner than later and not risk if it's blight or wilt or something contaimating the beds.. So, I got ferti-lome ultimate soil and new seed ill start and water much less this time around! Any other advice is greatly appreciated, I will be super upset if this round goes badly too! We use a lot of tomatoes!

March 6, 2014	#13
Bladefan Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Clarkrange, TN Posts: 68	Fox farms light warrior if you can find it in your area. I have had great success using it...

March 8, 2014	#15
tnpeppers Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Zone 6 Posts: 365	Is anyone else using Urban Farms' Vegetable Fertilizer on their seedlings? I sowed my seed with a misting of a weak VF solution (1/2 tsp/gallon), and the results have been spectacular. I will continue using the Urban Farm products this year, just to see what happens. The Texas Tomato Food worked wonders for me last year, and I am anxious to see what an entire season of using their products does for my tomatoes (and peppers).