General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.
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#1 |
Crosstalk™ Forum Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: 8407 18th Ave West 7-203 Everett, Washington 98204
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Harry Olson is a promoter of grafted tomatoes in containers who lives in Salem, OR.
We gave a presentation together at the Portland Nursery together and his wisdom might come in handy for those with a small backyard. Some of my friends like two leaders in their potted tomatoes but Harry demonstrates why four leaders might be better for his conditions. Let me know what you think...I promised him some feedback. I invited him to work with me in some high row tunnels just 25 minutes from him and work with me on the four leader proposal. I have 177 varieties down there now and will have countless more soon. Harry is growing my Skykomish and Sky Reacher in his limited back yard. http://www.statesmanjournal.com/stor...grow/10380865/ |
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#2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Somis, Ca
Posts: 649
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The whole idea of pruning or not pruning is always a hotly debated subject. Obviously, taking off the main leader is pretty radical pruning. I understand the concept of "spreading out" the vitality to four equally vigorous leaders. I never argue with anyone who has done it both ways. I think there are variables that can lead to success or failure...which do not always meet the eye. Some varieties are obviously more aggressive than others. Some are shy bearers (naturally)...some prolific. I do not always count...but four leaders is close to what I usually end up with.
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#3 | |
Crosstalk™ Forum Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: 8407 18th Ave West 7-203 Everett, Washington 98204
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#4 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Wasilla Alaska
Posts: 2,010
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Anyway, here is where I was at with it, (Small tomatoes- 6 branches, (standard tomatoes- 4 branches, (beefsteaks- 2-3, but a Cowlick's that has 4 is producing like a tomato factory, slabs too. The main problem up here, in a greenhouse, becomes leaf density, then grey mold, if you don't spread them out or remove leaves if they touch. I have found in a greenhouse, that removing quite a few leaves allows me to keep branches closer together, even crossed over each other and saves space, it is about the square foot in a greenhouse, and not by choice. I also think that branch growth evens out rather quickly as long, as a sucker gets space and adequate light to grow. I also have let 2-3 branches grow, chop them when the plants huge, and then let a sucker lower on the plant grow as the main top. This works well for big strains, and when upward growth is halted fruit sets like crazy, then the lower sucker starts the process over again, only works for a long season though. I only had one cup of coffee this morning, so first off... I hope this babble is on topic, and I hope it can be deciphered. This is from greenhouse experience, so take it for what it is, I am small fry. Last edited by AKmark; June 17, 2014 at 01:13 PM. |
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#5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2013
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 135
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I've only tried a few grafted plants and can see where this approach would work, as the grafted plants I have in containers seem to have 4 or 5 leaders all by themselves. Most of the varieties I plant are heirlooms and they seem to be kind of temperamental; so you can't expect the same growth pattern that you usually get from grafted plants. I kind of follow the same pruning as AKmark, except for the spacing (I have none). Wind is more of factor for me, both good and bad. The more I prune, the more my plants are exposed to wind damage. If I leave them be, they start to intertwine and support each other. The flip side is I don't need to worry about mold or insects.
Last edited by Balr14; June 17, 2014 at 03:21 PM. |
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#6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E
Posts: 5,041
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Our French neighbors prune similar to what Harry is doing.
Ami http://tomodori.com/3culture/taill_sur_2-tiges.htm
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Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘...Holy Crap .....What a ride!' |
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#7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: St Paul, MN
Posts: 158
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Tom, do you know why it would make a difference that the plant he's trying this on is grafted?
Gary |
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#8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 1,992
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Tom,
I enjoyed the video. Would love to see a video or series tracking the progress over the course of the season. The concept makes a lot of sense. How much more production per plant is Harry getting? The pruning labor vs. production ratio is important (to me anyway). Gary, Some of the commercial rootstocks are incredibly vigorous. Think turbocharging an engine. |
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#9 |
Crosstalk™ Forum Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: 8407 18th Ave West 7-203 Everett, Washington 98204
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Harry has been promoting grafted tomatoes for about five years or more. He gets larger plants and yields and finds that four leaders are able to take the extra vigor from the root stock and gets larger tomatoes along with total production with four leaders rather than one or two and certainly more than if left unpruned.
I plan on visiting Harry at his Salem, OR home sometime this summer. |
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#10 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Hoboken, NJ USA
Posts: 347
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I'm GardeningAloft.blogspot.com (container growing apartment dweller) |
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