Transplants

AlittleSalt · February 3, 2015

Today, I've been researching planting dates for my area. I'm using multiple sources, and making my personal planting chart/document. Progressing through the sites and printed materials, they all agree with certain vegetable/fruit types need to be planted as transplants. The list is short so I'll include the varieties in bold that I don't plan on growing.

Broccoli
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Chard, Swiss
Eggplant
Kohlrabi
Onion
Pepper
Tomato

Swiss Chard, I had never heard of growing it from transplant. I guess that's why only about half the seeds I direct sowed came up last year? How do you guys start Swiss Chard? The variety I have is Rainbow or Five Color Silverbeet.

Kohlrabi, Other than the picture on the seed pack, I've never seen it much less grown and eat it. Only two of the five sources suggested growing them from transplant. Again, any suggestions would be appreciated. The seed pack I have is Early White Vienna, and is a 20 cent pack. Just wanted to try it.

Thanks

shelleybean · February 3, 2015

I start some of my lettuce, all of my spinach and all of my chard indoors in 2 1/2 inch pots, thinning to one plant. Keep them inside 4-6 weeks and in March, out they go. I harden off for about a week and then they're planted into the garden. I use these two beds for beans later in the season and I like to get the leafy stuff in early so when some of that space clears out, I can plant beans in April. I will keep planting more of the lettuce and greens directly outside but my first round is started indoors to get a jump on things. I used the same seed starting mix I use for tomatoes, peppers and eggplant.

Hunt-Grow-Cook · February 3, 2015

I started soaking my chard and beet seeds prior to direct sowing and have noticed some quicker/better germination. I use warm water and only soak for an hour or so. Still have some that arent showing, guess thats to be expected. I do belive chard "seeds" are actual capsules if you will. Containing multiple seeds within each one. Hence the "cut and take" method for some varieties works well. Harvest the outer leaves and they continure to re-generate and send up new shoots. It seems silly to start chard indoors here, its cold tolerant and produces in abundance for me. Quicker and more effective to direct-sow. I actually did a comparison with spincah last year, and everything that was direct sowed, not only caught up to, but passed all of the "indoor started plants" in terms of size and production.

Your milage may vary.....

shelleybean · February 3, 2015

My indoor sown lettuce was ready a month before what I sowed directly, but I can't comment on the spinach or chard because I didn't grow both indoor and outdoor seeded plants to compare. In 2013, I sowed it all outdoors but by the time the spinach and chard got to a size that I could cut off of, I didn't have them very long because the heat caused them to go to seed quickly, especially the spinach. So that's part of the reason I decided to start them indoors last year. It worked well for me so I am repeating this year. Sometimes we seem to go straight from winter to summer, skipping over the milder spring temps.

Hunt-Grow-Cook · February 3, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by shelleybean

My indoor sown lettuce was ready a month before what I sowed directly, but I can't comment on the spinach or chard because I didn't grow both indoor and outdoor seeded plants to compare. In 2013, I sowed it all outdoors but by the time the spinach and chard got to a size that I could cut off of, I didn't have them very long because the heat caused them to go to seed quickly, especially the spinach. So that's part of the reason I decided to start them indoors last year. It worked well for me so I am repeating this year. Sometimes we seem to go straight from winter to summer, skipping over the milder spring temps.

Don't want you to think any of my response was directed at you. Growing is most certainly a regional thing with a million and one variables. I noticed the OP was in Texas so figured his springs were fairly warm much like ours here in northern CA. The nurseries where Im from do carry starts for chard and spinach, but they carry very small quantities in comparison to other spring veggies. I assume some feel the started plants are more convenient, while others are cursed with black thumbs. Lettuces, chards, spinach and the like have just been too easy in my experience and in my climate. Biggest thing being surface sowing and not starting seeds to deep.

I do agree in changing seasons, some seeming much shorter/longer than before. This "winter" in particular has been unseasonably warm and short here in CA. It's almost scary. Sorry to get off track. Best of luck to all!

AlittleSalt · February 3, 2015

Every season here has hot days +75. Our forecast is: Tomorrow 46F with a cold front, Friday, 64, Saturday - Tuesday 78F with lows near 50. Of course, it usually snows or ices once in February here too. Two years ago, it got down to 29F on May 2nd.

I think I'll try both ways of planting to see what happens.

I've also noticed local nurseries carrying odd-to-me transplants. I've found okra, squash, and even beans as transplants the past few years. I'm thinking that is geared more for square foot gardening and small raised beds?

shelleybean · February 4, 2015

I will admit, I like to start some of these cool weather things indoors when it's too soon for tomatoes or peppers. I can finally plant something, not just plan the garden. I find winter depressing and kind of boring. Starting them inside helps that a little.

gregory · February 4, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by shelleybean

I will admit, I like to start some of these cool weather things indoors when it's too soon for tomatoes or peppers. I can finally plant something, not just plan the garden. I find winter depressing and kind of boring. Starting them inside helps that a little.

Yep it sure helps
Not sure my wife appreciates my set up in the dining room

Misfit · February 11, 2015

Quote:

Originally Posted by gregory

Yep it sure helps
Not sure my wife appreciates my set up in the dining room

Your castle is your domain... don't tell your wife that though!!!

-Jimmy

jmsieglaff · February 4, 2015

I start Swiss Chard indoors at the same time I start my lettuce and it does fine. I start them in 4-pack cell trays.

whistech · February 4, 2015

I have started kohlrabi in 3 inch pots for the past 2 years. They did fine and I had no problem when transplanting. Year before last I grew the early white Vienna and they seemed to be very fiberous. Last fall I grew Winners kohlrabi and they are very good and not woody at all. I have only ate them two ways. First, I just sliced then thinly and ate them raw with a little salt. Secondly, I sliced them about one quarter inch thick drizzled with olive oil and sauteed them until the edges were crispy. I liked them both ways thought they tasted something like a cross between broccoli and cauliflower. Where I live, they are only recommended for fall planting. The Winners kohlrabi gets about a four inch bulb whereas the Vienna only gets about two inches.

Rairdog · February 4, 2015

Funny Hunt Grow Fish. When I first started chard I thinned them and thought...How could I have put more that one seed in a cell when they're that big. I grow all my chard in the aquaponics and they never bolt. It will finally freeze and wilt but sometime it snaps back for a little while. It must be the cool water temps that keep my beds from getting to warm to seed. I thing they hog all the K from the rest of my plants in the AP beds. The greens I put in the dirt get demolished by cabbage moths so they are target plants. I have tried several times to get greens going in the fall and it has never worked.

Whistec, I need to try some of the Winner kohlrabi. Mine don't get too woody, but like you say, they are small. I always direct sowed them. This year I have some started in cells thinking they needed a little more grow time before it got warm. Thanks for the tip.

AlittleSalt · February 4, 2015

Thank you everyone for the replies. We went shopping today. I was telling my wife about what you all had written when we stopped by a Dollar Tree. I picked up a couple 12 cell planters and discussed what all we could try growing transplants for. I put the two 12 cell planters back and went over to Wally World and bought another 72 cell Pro-Hex. That makes 4 of them.

Now, I need to read up on what can and cannot be transplanted.

kath · February 4, 2015

I've never grown Swiss Chard from transplants. Since it's a relative of beets, I assumed it had a taproot that would be hard to transplant. Mine did well from seed. I've also grown kohlrabi from seed, never transplants. Onions can be direct seeded, but usually aren't because they have to reach a certain size by the time the daylight initiates the bulbing process. I've grown small early onions, scallions, etc. from seed w/o any problem. One year I grew Rutgers tomato plants from seed in the garden and got lots of fruits!

Cole_Robbie · February 4, 2015

You want your Kohlrabi to finish and be harvested before it gets too hot. It's a heat-tolerant cruciferous vegetable, compared to the rest of them; I've only had collard greens do well in heat, as far as cruciferous vegetables go, but hot weather makes the quality of kohlrabi go down. The inside goes from tender to woody.

February 3, 2015	#1
AlittleSalt BANNED FOR LIFE Join Date: May 2014 Posts: 13,333	Transplants Today, I've been researching planting dates for my area. I'm using multiple sources, and making my personal planting chart/document. Progressing through the sites and printed materials, they all agree with certain vegetable/fruit types need to be planted as transplants. The list is short so I'll include the varieties in bold that I don't plan on growing. Broccoli Cabbage Cauliflower Chard, Swiss Eggplant Kohlrabi Onion Pepper Tomato Swiss Chard, I had never heard of growing it from transplant. I guess that's why only about half the seeds I direct sowed came up last year? How do you guys start Swiss Chard? The variety I have is Rainbow or Five Color Silverbeet. Kohlrabi, Other than the picture on the seed pack, I've never seen it much less grown and eat it. Only two of the five sources suggested growing them from transplant. Again, any suggestions would be appreciated. The seed pack I have is Early White Vienna, and is a 20 cent pack. Just wanted to try it. Thanks

February 3, 2015	#2
shelleybean Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Virginia Beach Posts: 2,648	I start some of my lettuce, all of my spinach and all of my chard indoors in 2 1/2 inch pots, thinning to one plant. Keep them inside 4-6 weeks and in March, out they go. I harden off for about a week and then they're planted into the garden. I use these two beds for beans later in the season and I like to get the leafy stuff in early so when some of that space clears out, I can plant beans in April. I will keep planting more of the lettuce and greens directly outside but my first round is started indoors to get a jump on things. I used the same seed starting mix I use for tomatoes, peppers and eggplant. __________________ Michele

February 3, 2015	#4
shelleybean Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Virginia Beach Posts: 2,648	My indoor sown lettuce was ready a month before what I sowed directly, but I can't comment on the spinach or chard because I didn't grow both indoor and outdoor seeded plants to compare. In 2013, I sowed it all outdoors but by the time the spinach and chard got to a size that I could cut off of, I didn't have them very long because the heat caused them to go to seed quickly, especially the spinach. So that's part of the reason I decided to start them indoors last year. It worked well for me so I am repeating this year. Sometimes we seem to go straight from winter to summer, skipping over the milder spring temps. __________________ Michele

February 4, 2015	#7
shelleybean Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Virginia Beach Posts: 2,648	I will admit, I like to start some of these cool weather things indoors when it's too soon for tomatoes or peppers. I can finally plant something, not just plan the garden. I find winter depressing and kind of boring. Starting them inside helps that a little. __________________ Michele

February 3, 2015	#3
Hunt-Grow-Cook Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 360	I started soaking my chard and beet seeds prior to direct sowing and have noticed some quicker/better germination. I use warm water and only soak for an hour or so. Still have some that arent showing, guess thats to be expected. I do belive chard "seeds" are actual capsules if you will. Containing multiple seeds within each one. Hence the "cut and take" method for some varieties works well. Harvest the outer leaves and they continure to re-generate and send up new shoots. It seems silly to start chard indoors here, its cold tolerant and produces in abundance for me. Quicker and more effective to direct-sow. I actually did a comparison with spincah last year, and everything that was direct sowed, not only caught up to, but passed all of the "indoor started plants" in terms of size and production. Your milage may vary.....

February 4, 2015	#10
jmsieglaff Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Southern WI Posts: 2,742	I start Swiss Chard indoors at the same time I start my lettuce and it does fine. I start them in 4-pack cell trays.

February 4, 2015	#11
whistech Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Between The Woodlands and Spring, Texas Posts: 553	I have started kohlrabi in 3 inch pots for the past 2 years. They did fine and I had no problem when transplanting. Year before last I grew the early white Vienna and they seemed to be very fiberous. Last fall I grew Winners kohlrabi and they are very good and not woody at all. I have only ate them two ways. First, I just sliced then thinly and ate them raw with a little salt. Secondly, I sliced them about one quarter inch thick drizzled with olive oil and sauteed them until the edges were crispy. I liked them both ways thought they tasted something like a cross between broccoli and cauliflower. Where I live, they are only recommended for fall planting. The Winners kohlrabi gets about a four inch bulb whereas the Vienna only gets about two inches.

February 4, 2015	#12
Rairdog Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2014 Location: Noblesville, IN Posts: 112	Funny Hunt Grow Fish. When I first started chard I thinned them and thought...How could I have put more that one seed in a cell when they're that big. I grow all my chard in the aquaponics and they never bolt. It will finally freeze and wilt but sometime it snaps back for a little while. It must be the cool water temps that keep my beds from getting to warm to seed. I thing they hog all the K from the rest of my plants in the AP beds. The greens I put in the dirt get demolished by cabbage moths so they are target plants. I have tried several times to get greens going in the fall and it has never worked. Whistec, I need to try some of the Winner kohlrabi. Mine don't get too woody, but like you say, they are small. I always direct sowed them. This year I have some started in cells thinking they needed a little more grow time before it got warm. Thanks for the tip.

February 4, 2015	#14
kath Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: zone 6b, PA Posts: 5,664	I've never grown Swiss Chard from transplants. Since it's a relative of beets, I assumed it had a taproot that would be hard to transplant. Mine did well from seed. I've also grown kohlrabi from seed, never transplants. Onions can be direct seeded, but usually aren't because they have to reach a certain size by the time the daylight initiates the bulbing process. I've grown small early onions, scallions, etc. from seed w/o any problem. One year I grew Rutgers tomato plants from seed in the garden and got lots of fruits!

February 4, 2015	#15
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	You want your Kohlrabi to finish and be harvested before it gets too hot. It's a heat-tolerant cruciferous vegetable, compared to the rest of them; I've only had collard greens do well in heat, as far as cruciferous vegetables go, but hot weather makes the quality of kohlrabi go down. The inside goes from tender to woody.