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Old May 16, 2015   #1
isuhunter
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Default Help me raise the best tomatoes!

You guys have convinced me to make my garden bigger, so I will be doing that. As I've been lurking around the site everyone has something they do that "helps" their tomatoes. Critique my "process" of growing tomatoes.

I plant in a garden which I keep slowly amending the soil and am starting my compost pile for future amendments.

I plant a variety of tomatoes, some heirlooms and hybrids, some from seed and some store/online purchased.

I typically mulch with grass clippings.

I water as I see needed. I use miracle grow tomato fertilizer.

I've never pruned.

I have rebar cages -- this year I'm going to go to the "florida weave" i think to save space.

Should I look at fish emulsion? Pruning? Different mulch?
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Old May 16, 2015   #2
isuhunter
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Here are some pics of how I started my seed.
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Old May 16, 2015   #3
drew51
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Looks like you're doing fine. Be careful of grass if sprayed with weed killers. Cover the bed in leaves in the fall. Work them in or use as a mulch in the spring. Leaves are a great source of trace minerals. I shred them well first. They breakdown super fast that way. I cover with some compost to hold in place.
Watch that the grass doesn't mat up on you. Keep it broken up.
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Old May 16, 2015   #4
Blueaussi
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If you're already using Miracle Grow, I wouldn't use fish emulsion. That's a lot of nitrogen, and a lot of nitrogen is like ringing the dinner bell for aphids.
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Old May 16, 2015   #5
isuhunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blueaussi View Post
If you're already using Miracle Grow, I wouldn't use fish emulsion. That's a lot of nitrogen, and a lot of nitrogen is like ringing the dinner bell for aphids.
I used an extremely diluted miracle grow when they were still in solo cups, I haven't used anything since.
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Old May 16, 2015   #6
b54red
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I recommend you do some judicious pruning and keep your plants to no more than four stems and keep most of the suckers off. This will encourage larger fruit and better fruit set as well as allow better air flow. I feed my tomatoes weekly with a hose end sprayer and I use TTF because of the heavier fruit set I get with it; but I used MG for many years with very good results. I found that when I started keeping the plants pruned and fed them weekly I got far better results than when I only fed them once a month or so. I also suggest you apply a good fungicide every week or so to help prevent foliage diseases although that may not be as critical where you are as it is down here.

Good luck and have a great season.

Bill
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Old May 16, 2015   #7
isuhunter
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Here are some pics of my individual tomatoes. Just took today.
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Old May 16, 2015   #8
isuhunter
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Continued
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Old May 16, 2015   #9
Labradors2
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Looking great! I would get your stakes in soon, before you accidentally spear some roots with them later when the plants are bigger and the roots have spread.

I hope you will have a fantastic crop this year!

Linda
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Old May 16, 2015   #10
isuhunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Labradors2 View Post
Looking great! I would get your stakes in soon, before you accidentally spear some roots with them later when the plants are bigger and the roots have spread.

I hope you will have a fantastic crop this year!

Linda
Should I weave them place cages on all of them?
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Old May 16, 2015   #11
Salsacharley
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You could start a weave now but they are so small it might be a lot of effort. They do need support of some kind. They are at the stage where a good wind will break them. You could tie them to small stakes and start the weave later. That's what I do.

Your grass clippings are pretty green which might provide too much nitrogen. This could impair calcium uptake as well as attract aphids as mentioned above. If they clump together they will become anaerobic, causing odor and bad bacteria. Make sure they don't clump up.

Good luck!




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Should I weave them place cages on all of them?
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Old May 16, 2015   #12
Gardeneer
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You are doing just fine. Your soil looks like BLACK GOLD.

About fertilizing, in an already established garden, you have to read the lips of your plants (in the absence of elaborate soil analysis). MG is what I use also, but with reduced strength and less often. "K" and "P" are durable and can accumulate over time. But it is "N" that needs to be fed gradually b/c being highly water soluble, it can leach out. But if your soil has fair amount of organic mater, "N" also can be trapped and released slowly. That is one of the advantages of organic matter, easy on your wallet and friend of the environment.

ON THE MULCHING>

I like what you've don in that pot : PINE BARK NUGGETS. That is what I prefer to use.
I tried grass clippings (after sun drying). Did not like it. It get mushy when wet (haven for slugs..bugs) and cakes up when dry. Well ,of course , it is free but other than that not impressive IMO.

Gardener
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Old May 16, 2015   #13
Labradors2
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If you're going to weave them you need stakes at each end and (I think) one in the middle (assuming that you have four plants in each row). Otherwise, each plant will need it's own cage, but I hope you already know that those store-bought cages are wimpy. Indeterminate tomatoes will grow up to the top of them and then fall back down again so they are not ideal. That is why people make their own cages, weave or string their plants.

Linda
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Old May 27, 2015   #14
squirrel789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Labradors2 View Post
If you're going to weave them you need stakes at each end and (I think) one in the middle (assuming that you have four plants in each row). Otherwise, each plant will need it's own cage, but I hope you already know that those store-bought cages are wimpy. Indeterminate tomatoes will grow up to the top of them and then fall back down again so they are not ideal. That is why people make their own cages, weave or string their plants.

Linda
There are tons of brilliant, and easy support methods here on TV, but I always found cages inadequate, although I haven't used some of the quality, home-made ones seen in the forum from CRW, or the expensive heavy-gauge ones you can buy. I've used the cheap folding kind, but used some 8' tall heavy stakes for more stability and for when the vines outgrow the cages. Search around, there are some really good ideas here from other people who are handier than I

I've had good luck with a trellis system using cattle panels, which can be placed above ground level on metal posts for greater height, or perhaps try other large-opening fencing and fence posts.

Ultimately, the design of your rows and how/if you plan to prune would dictate how useful the multitude of different methods might be.

Best of luck to what looks like a great start!
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Old May 17, 2015   #15
isuhunter
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Low of 35* on Monday night!
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