Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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April 18, 2016 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pulaski County, Arkansas
Posts: 1,239
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TTF Liquid + Plant Tone=Too Much Fert?
I'm using plant tone this year to fertilizer the veggies and everything else, but am intrigued by this texas TF in the liquid form.
Probably never been accused of OVER fertilizing anything, and the plant tone seems to provide adequate supplement, .....but, maybe a few drinks of the texas cocktail might boost. thoughts? |
April 18, 2016 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Zone 6a Denver North Metro
Posts: 1,910
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Got meter? That's my first thought. What's your pH doing because of the extra ferts and what's your total dissolved solids ppm would be my concerns.
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April 18, 2016 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pulaski County, Arkansas
Posts: 1,239
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I do, haven't checked the ph in a bit, but not a problem. earlier this year they were within the 6.5 range +/- 0.2 on average. However, growing in a raised bed, wouldn't think fertilizer would have a big effect on overall ph, as it will eventually get washed out. The cypress tree on the low end of the garden has grown 40ft in 5 years though........ lovin' it.
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April 18, 2016 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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When I prepare my beds I add chicken manure when available, cottonseed meal, alfalfa pellets, and as much compost as I can to provide some long term fertilizer along with a rich diet for my earthworms which love the combo. Soon after I plant I start fertilizing with a weaker ratio of TTF or their Veg. or A&O weekly until they start blooming. Then I start on a program of fertilizing with TTF every week to ten days depending on how the plants are doing and the weather. I start off setting my hose end sprayer at 2 tsp per gallon until the plants get around three feet high and then go to the full strength of 1 Tbs to the gallon. As the plants get larger I just give them a longer soak since the larger plants need more fertilizer and as the season goes on I continue to increase the amount because the things I added initially are getting depleted or leached out. By doing this and keeping them sprayed with fungicides regularly I have been able to keep most of my plants producing all the way through our very long season. I must admit they tend to drop off dramatically in production in August and September only to pick up again in October.
Not only has my production of tomatoes increased dramatically the flavor of the tomatoes has gotten better with this regimen of feeding with TTF. The other great advantage has been the massive increase in fruit set which is a major benefit down here where the heat and humidity in mid and late summer can kill fruit set ordinarily. It does cost a bit more but the results have been amazing for me. You can over fertilize young plants so that is why I use a reduced amount when they are small and increase according to the plants size and demand for food. I have learned to read my plants and increase or decrease according to what I see when I check them out. If the plants are looking a bit pale or not setting enough then I will increase the amount of solution I give them but if they start looking too dark a shade of green or being overly vegetative then I will cut back or reduce the mix ratio until they level off. Bill |
April 18, 2016 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Zone 6a Denver North Metro
Posts: 1,910
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I was thinking you wuz in containers. Strike my comment, I'm snow blind and delirious from shoveling.
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April 18, 2016 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pulaski County, Arkansas
Posts: 1,239
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Hang in there Rickey, weather is about to turn the corner.
b54red, thanks for the votary on ttf and use. Strong testimony and can relate to getting fruit early before the heat. I don't plan on using until things get a bit more mature and the weather (rain) starts to dissipate some, don't see the reason to wash expensive fertilizer down the drain, but when the plants start to fruit (don't have my first mater yet), mixing a gallon jug and giving them a drink around the root edge. I only have 30 plants and some other stuff, so do-able. All my hose-end sprayers are kaput. Just wondering if applying basically on top of granular plant tone fert would be overkill or beneficial, as in too much of a good thing. I have introduced plant tone on initial planting (in the hole) on everything, but haven't even applied my first fertilizer application yet. Just thinking ahead and trying to get the best production and healthy garden this year, but wondering if it was either one or the other, or if both could be used. |
April 18, 2016 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,069
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I've always been warned away from too much nitrogen after a plant starts flowering and fruiting, as too much nitrogen supposedly keeps plants in a vegetative mindset and inhibits fruiting.
I fertilize with a fish fertilizer (will use something like Plant Tone in future, I think) after I get my plants in the ground, and then, when I get flowering, I start regularly fertilizing with something that has better ratios for tomato fruiting (was using Jobe granular and happy with it, but I may try TTF this year). But I plant out with fairly young plants, so I don't deal with the conundrum of plants that are already flowering when they're put in the ground. |
April 18, 2016 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pulaski County, Arkansas
Posts: 1,239
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TTF is 4.0-2.9-6.7, so not over the top nitro. Seems like an applicable rate of fertilizer for vegetables.
How much is too much, and how much is not enough? I guess you just go by plant profile. Seem like the TTF liquid on a gallon hand pour would go deeper than the surface scratched plant tone fertilizer. IDK |
April 18, 2016 | #9 | |||
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,069
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April 18, 2016 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pulaski County, Arkansas
Posts: 1,239
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Good points. Think I may be falling into the, "if a little is good, than more is better," trap.
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April 18, 2016 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,069
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Personally, I guess I do "double fertilize", if you count compost/vermicompost. But I consider that more "soil building" and not really fertilizing, even though those do add some nutrients.
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April 18, 2016 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pulaski County, Arkansas
Posts: 1,239
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& considering that I am raised (b/c I am on hard clay), that the water and nutrients run off on the ground & make the weed eatin' & mowin' a P.I.T.A. .... but the bald cypress sucks it up like a champ.
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April 18, 2016 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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Does anyone know what the analysis is of Texas Tomato Food?
Think about this for a minute. All I keep seeing here and other places is the NPK ratio. Here are some questions you need to ask yourself before you do anything with fertilizer. What kind of nitrogen is it? 'They aren't all the same. Read up on them and then look at what you are using. What do I have in my soil already? It is often found that the soil already has too high a number in some of this stuff. Do I use a lot of compost and what kind? From what I have over use of certain compost can bring P and K levels too high. How long have I been using a low N and high P and K fertilizer? How soon to do I want the plants to respond to the fertilizer? What kind of water do I use and is it full of calcium. Could the pH be effecting the uptake of the fertilizer? 'this can lead to over fertilization and will only be known after the pH is corrected. Now this is what I do, I know pretty much what I have going on at my place due to experience and plant response. I use plant tone for the long term effect and a liquid fertilizer that has readily available nitrogen starting out. And at any other time the plants need a boost. Other places I dont use it at all or very little of it. Worth |
April 18, 2016 | #14 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chapin, SC
Posts: 143
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April 18, 2016 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pulaski County, Arkansas
Posts: 1,239
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http://www.tomatoville.com/showthrea...t=27229&page=6
I did read through this past thread that was very educational about the texas food. However, you are right Worth1, it is generally more complex in relation to what your needs are. Truthfully, I don't know what is really going on, as I haven't done a soil test. A cheap ph meter doesn't really tell me much, but just that I am in the range. The BER which is being hammered, has not been a problem for me, save the occasional tomato; as if the weather cooperates, I am pretty regular on my soaker hose watering. With the plant tone (I suppose if similar to tomato tone), it is really not that fast acting, but gives overall health. So, yes, I would like a "boosting" fertilizer if the plant looks stressed. The biggest attractant is that is easily water soluable. Other liquid mixes (esp. granuals) seems to get gunky. I also use compost, but truthfully not sure of it's "makeup." Bottom line is I don't know jack squat and soil chemistry is a weak link. Part of me wants to be joe schmuck and just dump some "stuff" around the plants and miraculously have healthy plants and a bumper crop, ta-da!! But there is a part of me that yearns for a more indepth look - but not on a Monday. |
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