Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
June 12, 2016 | #1 |
BANNED FOR LIFE
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 13,333
|
When to Pull Them
I know I have written a lot about what is going on with all the rain and the plants being stunted - etc.. I got up early to look at the plants, and realized, if I cut off any more yellow leaves - there won't be any left...or not many. So instead of pruning and hoping they will grow out of it - I took pictures with this thread in mind. The pictures actually make the cherry tomato plants look better than they actually look.
First the stunted plants. Bumblebees, Ambrosias, others. They are between 2 and 3' tall at best, and were planted out back in early March. The last picture is what I think they should look like - the last picture is Porter. What would you do with these plants? |
June 12, 2016 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
|
I'd give them a good feeding of kelp/fish emulsion as well as a foliar spray of kelp/neem oil. They look like they may recover if they get a break. All that rain probably depleted your fertilizer.
|
June 12, 2016 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,460
|
I would not have picked off the yellow leaves. I only remove leaves that are diseased or dried up. I would give the yellow leaves a chance to green up again with less water and more sun and nitrogen if needed. I might replace a few if you can still find large plants in pots to purchase locally, but if not, and its too late in your season to start over, what do you have to loose by leaving them in place and seeing if they recover?
|
June 12, 2016 | #4 |
BANNED FOR LIFE
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 13,333
|
The forecast is for rain today. I haven't watered since April.
I did start seeds in a 36 cell tray yesterday to attempt growing a fall garden. Some are cherry tomatoes that will replace at least some of these in the 34' long raised bed. I have been spraying the bleach/soap water on them and using Daconil, but the leaves keep yellowing and there are some plants out in the main garden that do have dried up leaves that I remove daily. Below are pictures of a plant that I'm hoping you all can look at and say, "That is ____" |
June 12, 2016 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Ontario
Posts: 3,896
|
The root looks humungous! I guess the rest of it simply rotted!
Your plot looked so nice from your pictures. The only thing that you forgot to add was a cover over the top to keep all the darned rain out! Sorry that you are having such a difficult time with your plants..... Linda |
June 12, 2016 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 329
|
I saw those Fat roots and it might not be textbook classic, but I still thought RKN. I been wanting to pull up a plant for other reasons so I forked up a cherry tom root ball, here is a pic. It was planted out on 2/27. If yours is RKN, they will get worse in the Fall, might want to start some Big Beef and Celebrity. I been growing resistant stuff like Elbon Rye, blackeye peas in the tomato patch, between tomatoes seasons, seems to work OK.
__________________
500 sq ft of raised rows zone 8a Last edited by decherdt; June 12, 2016 at 02:13 PM. |
June 20, 2016 | #7 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 620
|
Quote:
Good Luck, Last edited by Zone9b; June 21, 2016 at 12:17 PM. |
|
June 21, 2016 | #8 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 620
|
Quote:
I need to take more photos of the roots of plants I pull. If I see thick roots on plants that I consider quite nematodes resistant then I might consider the thick root do to something other than nematodes but if I don't see them on seriously nematode resistant plants but do see them on others which I don't consider particularly resistant then I would have to come to the conclusion that the thick roots are do to nematodes. Or better yet, someone who is quite knowledgeable on the subject may be able to tell us categorically that these types of roots are do to nematodes. I would love to hear others opinion on this subject because I am sure all of us would like to have the ability to objectively determine what is nematode damage and what isn't. Thanks, Larry Last edited by Zone9b; June 21, 2016 at 12:21 PM. |
|
June 21, 2016 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 329
|
Any time I see ginger looking roots on tomato plants I'm thinking RKN. Salt's were lumpy enough to call 'em naughty,. It does bother me that several brands of Big Beef all were susceptible, have to just hope they are not monster nematodes from Comanche Peak
__________________
500 sq ft of raised rows zone 8a Last edited by decherdt; June 21, 2016 at 04:33 PM. |
June 21, 2016 | #10 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 620
|
Quote:
With other varieties such as Champion II, First Prize, and Jetsetter, which are all indeterminate vining varieties, I don't see this at all. At the end of the season their main stems are still green and healthy and if I let them they will continually grow larger into the summer or winter but not set tomatoes. It appears to me that just going by the N in a seed vendors description,while somewhat useful, may not provide complete information. With only an N one does not know, in my opinion, whether this variety is low, intermediate or high resistance to nematodes. For example I grew a variety this spring called Giant Beef. It was said to be N but when I pulled the plants which hadn't performed particularly well, the roots were covered with root galls. Thanks, Your description helps increase my knowledge of how to identify nematode damage. Larry Last edited by Zone9b; June 21, 2016 at 04:22 PM. |
|
June 12, 2016 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Ontario
Posts: 3,896
|
Just in case it is Root Knot Nematodes, I found this interesting website. Do I see Marigolds in your future garden?
http://blackgold.bz/mighty-marigolds...nic-gardening/ Linda |
June 12, 2016 | #12 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pulaski County, Arkansas
Posts: 1,239
|
Quote:
|
|
June 12, 2016 | #13 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
|
Quote:
Solarization kills them, but only for 3 months or so. I like a container with a barrier to the soil. Still, this season one of my Earthboxes became infested because the yard man weed whacked at an angle, and spattered native soil over the earthboxes, some fell into the planting hole opening in the plastic mulch topper, and that was that. |
|
June 12, 2016 | #14 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pulaski County, Arkansas
Posts: 1,239
|
Quote:
|
|
June 21, 2016 | #15 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 620
|
Quote:
Larry |
|
|
|