AKMARK, RickyShaw, other MasterBlend, FloraNova users - AKMAR

[Barb_FL]

I have a few questions re: using MasterBlend, FloraNova, MaxiGrow.


MasterBlend - I'm good to go with the mixing with calcium nitrate, Epsom salts, adjusting the ph, but somewhat confused on the PPM.

The PPM from what I understand is comprised on the amount of product used and the source water. When I've read comments such as "Running the PPM to xxxx" does that mean you adjusted the amount of product to arrive at that desired PPM? I'm mixing the 12g/12g/6g of product in 5 gallon containers,
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FloraNova Grow - I've read that Cal / Mag is needed to make it complete. How much cal/mag is added?
I also bought FloraNova Bloom but never seen it mentioned on TV so assume it isn't ever used.

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MaxiGro - Anyone with experience using this?


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Any advice is appreciated.

[Ricky Shaw]

Yes you would reduce the fertilizer amount. The source water ppm + fert ppm = recommended. This is what I've seen from all mfgs and a seeming consensus on growing forums.

Once you start to get over 200ppm source water the usual recommendation is use reverse osmosis water. Assuming past this point there's too many unknowns as to reasonable quality.

Floranova is quirky to me, the ppm numbers bounce a lot no matter how well I shake. I use the Grow formula and added Cal/Mag liquid at 1/2 strength and bringing the total ppm into the same EC millisiemen as the ChemGrow solution. 1800-2000 on mature plants. The Floranova Bloom has more Cal/Mag than Grow, but the nitrogen is maybe too low for tomatoes.

I've got plenty of thoughts on this stuff, but need to run out for a while today for some chores. Hope this turns into a good discussion.

[AKmark]

I minus out the source water PPM, it would be hard for fert companies to recommend a dose otherwise, I have seen source water range from 170 PPM to 450 PPM. In other words, if I want 1500 PPM and my source is 170 PPM, I shoot for 1670 PPM. A PPM meter just measures total dissloved solids, and who knows what they are unless you send in a water sample. Anyway, that is how I was taught to use it by our state Agronomist. This should also match the recommended EC. I run 1200-1400 on seedlings and small plants, by the 4th- 5th flower cluster I am at 1700 PPM, not including source, it matches the recommended EC of 2.27

Flora Nova is great for hobby growers, and Ricky is correct, it is tough to get an exact measurement to match each time. Mix up several gallons with your Cal-Mag supplement and measure it, maybe a weeks worth. Measure each batch you mix up, and test it with a meter. I like the grow best, it has a great formula for tomatoes, high K, and use about 3 ml for your Cal- Mag, then test it.

I would also look at HG's Hobby formula, you just need to add some MgSO4

Good luck

[newgardener_tx]

Where do you buy Calcium and Magnesium supplement Ca(No3)2 and MgSO4? No big box store sells them.

[AKmark]

You can find Cal-Mag at any hydroponics store. For Dry stuff, look at a farm outlet

[newgardener_tx]

Originally Posted by AKmark

You can find Cal-Mag at any hydroponics store. For Dry stuff, look at a farm outlet

Thank you!

[Cole_Robbie]

Botanicare makes a good cal-mag product:


Dissolved solids in tap water are primarily calcium and magnesium, so Cal Mag would be most important if one was using RO-filtered water.

Well water, if anyone uses that, is a crap shoot based upon your location. I had well water in Georgia, and it was high in iron. There are some hydroponic nutrient products that are designated "hard water formula" for growers using well water.

[Ricky Shaw]

I also agree with Mark's not adding in the source water ppm, because a couple hundred ppm either way isn't the end of the world, and if you're going to err it's better to have a little too much nutrient than not enough. And especially when the plant starts to load up on fruit.

In general, tomato plants take moderate over-fertilization well, seedlings too. At least in my experiments.

[Rajun Gardener]

I use Masterblend, calnit and epsom in dutch buckets, I always get different readings with different water temperature. I try to keep it between 700-900 and if I measure it in the mornings during winter the reading drops down to the 400-500 range but afternoons after it warms up it's right.

Has anybody else noticed this?

[Cole_Robbie]

I think many of the electronic meters are calibrated to work at one temperature, and the extent to which they vary by temp change would likely depend on brand. The cost of digital meters has dropped a lot in previous years, but so has the quality in the cheaper units.

[Barb_FL]

Thanks everyone for responding. Ricky - come back with your other thoughts.

Tomatoes are setting fruit now (a function of low enough night time temperatures) and I want to have one long season like Marsha does vs running out of gas and doing a shortened spring season.

[AKmark]

It is really pretty simple, but it can be daunting trying to figure out meters, fertilizers, watering, etc, etc.
Take a look in the container section at a thread about varieties that work and don't work in containers. Ricky Shaw posted a pic of a plant in there he grew this year, and it is a great example of a healthy tomato plant.
I am not sure how long Ricky has grown tomatoes, but he sure asked a lot of questions before this season, he obviously paid attention and did his homework too, the results are awesome. It seems that everyone who uses HG's 4-18-38 correctly get super results, I have several people in my area who do well too.
Good luck with your adventure

[Nematode]

FWIW I use ppm to calculate weight of salts to get ratios correct, and EC to set solution strength.
Measuring ppm requires the selection of a conversion factor which seems nobody can agree on.
EC is EC, no confusing factors involved.

[PureHarvest]

Ricky, I still don't get the PPM and EC charts LOL! Even though we've discussed the conversions and different brand meters etc. My PPM never matched the EC on my meter even when I used the conversion from Truncheon.
My source water on a new well is 50 ppm. Since it is so low, I think I am just gonna follow the rates on the bag next year and just use the meter to adjust the pH.
As for the comment earlier about fluctuating readings, the more expensive meters are temperature compensating. You just have to wait a minute or so for it to adjust to the temp of the solution versus what your meter's probe temp was.

[Ricky Shaw]

EC is EC

I also want to give a shout-out to millisiemens everywhere. Definitely my favorite way to express values.


*And easy to convert to mhos, another expression you often see.

1500 millisiemen = 1.5 mhos