Longest your same tomato plant kept producing?

[garyc1234]

I live in the Bay Area in Northern California where the temperatures are pretty moderate all year round. I've noticed that some of my tomato plants that pretty much "died" are actually giving out new stems and are looking green again. (I've attached a picture with one example.) I'm thinking of trying an experiment to see how long some of these plants last and whether they will give another productive crop. With the temperatures in the Bay area, we might not have a frost at all, so it's possible these plants might be completely fine.

I'm just curious to see if anyone else has tried this (in one of those regions where frost is rare or inside a greenhouse). This would be the same tomato plant with the same original root system and not a new planting via a sucker from the original one.

[Jimbotomateo]

Gary, I'm in similar position. Think I'll pull mine and replant. I believe that's what Gerardo does and since this is my first year I should probably follow the experts.Let me know how yours tun out. Could get interesting! Best of luck, Jimbo

[dmforcier]

I'd like to hear more about the "pull and replant" technique vs. the "let them regrow" technique. Seems to me that a plant with an established root system will have a decided advantage over a sprout.

Of course, with replanting you get to select a new mix of varieties...

[Jimbotomateo]

Originally Posted by dmforcier

I'd like to hear more about the "pull and replant" technique vs. the "let them regrow" technique. Seems to me that a plant with an established root system will have a decided advantage over a sprout.

Of course, with replanting you get to select a new mix of varieties...

Dmforcier, I believe your correct on both counts. I only had 4 varietys this year and although I liked them all i think I'd like to move on by trying at least 12 to 15 new ones. I enjoy your wit and humor very much! If your posting I'm reading! Jimbo

[schill93]

I hate to mention the name, but I have a Celebrity plant out back that I thought was toast, and actually turned the water off for about ten days, until I saw blossoms forming. So I turned the water back on, and now I have about 30 medium size green tomatoes hanging on it. I hope some will turn before temperatures get too low.

[dmforcier]

Originally Posted by Jimbotomateo

I enjoy your wit and humor very much! If your posting I'm reading!

Thanks, Jimbo. I'm flattered. But it won't go to my head since I have a reality check. Minnie is bored to sleep by this whole enterprise, and is passed out with her head on the keyboard.





Every potential megalomaniac should be required to have a cat.

[b54red]

Originally Posted by dmforcier

I'd like to hear more about the "pull and replant" technique vs. the "let them regrow" technique. Seems to me that a plant with an established root system will have a decided advantage over a sprout.

Of course, with replanting you get to select a new mix of varieties...

Although I have had quite a few plants produce tomatoes for 8 months I now prefer to pull and replant.

The reason for this is that the lower trusses generally produce the most and the largest fruit. The lower trusses also set a higher percentage of fruit than the ones much further up the stem. This is especially important down here in the late summer and fall when fruit set can be very sparse due to the heat, disease pressure and pests.

I now try to remove my plants when they are around 5 to 6 months old. When they get that big they are much harder to manage and take care of compared to younger plants. It is much easier to spray and tie up the younger plants and they don't require as much pruning which is hard work in the heat.

I am now picking fruit only from the plants set out in late May(these are about finished), June and July. Right now the bulk of the tomatoes I am getting off my vines are coming from the plants set out in late July.

Bill

[Jimbotomateo]

Originally Posted by b54red

Although I have had quite a few plants produce tomatoes for 8 months I now prefer to pull and replant.

The reason for this is that the lower trusses generally produce the most and the largest fruit. The lower trusses also set a higher percentage of fruit than the ones much further up the stem. This is especially important down here in the late summer and fall when fruit set can be very sparse due to the heat, disease pressure and pests.

I now try to remove my plants when they are around 5 to 6 months old. When they get that big they are much harder to manage and take care of compared to younger plants. It is much easier to spray and tie up the younger plants and they don't require as much pruning which is hard work in the heat.

I am now picking fruit only from the plants set out in late May(these are about finished), June and July. Right now the bulk of the tomatoes I am getting off my vines are coming from the plants set out in late July.

Bill

[Jimbotomateo]

Pulling over here boss! Dang, I had just decided to keep em too. Thanks bill for insight.

[b54red]

It finally dawned on me after decades of growing tomatoes that the best production came from the lower trusses. I can't believe it took me so long to see the obvious. With our long season and high disease pressure the amount of work in maintaining old vines is so obviously not the smartest thing to do. As I've said before I learn best the hard way.

If you have room to plant multiple beds of tomatoes it only makes sense to stagger the planting dates so you are constantly bringing on new high producing plants. The obvious exceptions to this method are if you don't have the space or if you are looking to have maximum production in the shortest time possible for canning or preserving. Since I have the room the only other consideration is preserving my harvest so my largest planting is my first or second one so we have plenty of tomatoes to put up. The later plantings which naturally in our climate are usually less productive are to provide us with a good supply of vine ripened fresh tomatoes to enjoy til the first hard freeze.
I start pulling the vines out of the old beds when their production drops off dramatically and they become a lot of work to maintain. By that time some of my later plantings are coming on strong. This allows me more time to prepare those beds for fall planting.

Bill

[rhoder551]

I'm surprised yours look so good. I'm in Marin and all my plants are dead will be very soon. I'm taking them all out, I don't think tomatoes will survive our winters, just a tad too cold.

[peppero]

My sun sugar plants are still producing and are about 10 ft long with many blooms. They do well every year.

Jon

[MarianneW]

For me, 18 months. It was a volunteer from my compost. No frost protection, no special treatment. It finally died this summer after a week of +115f temps, I don't blame it. I tried to save seeds and from those I've got one plant going now. It's some determinate red that tastes amazing when roasted.

[pmcgrady]

What about cloning some of the plants that started growing again? Pretty easy to do.

[Gardeneer]

I agree; Trying to prolong the life of an already old plant is not the better option.
In my previous location (PNW) the season was too short ( may plant out to early October cooling down). That was about 5.5 months. But moved to NC, I will take Bill's advice and try to do some staggering and also second season planting ( July to November) in 2017.