New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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December 28, 2016 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Invercargill New Zealand
Posts: 1,022
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Need advice at Crucial point..
Hi..I have propagated my seeds under Grow Lights and have now repotted...
It seems to me this is a crucial point of the plants development... WHAT NOW?? Do I keep them underlights ...Put them out in my greenhouse presumably in a shaded area (Remember I am in the middle of summer) or ????? After repotting I gave them 1/4 cup of Miracle Grow a weak solution (the one thats available here) My OBJECTIVE..To develop nice think stems which I understand will depend on their root growth.. Any advice on what is best will be sincerely appreciated...or have I made a mistake so far..... Thanks Ron |
December 28, 2016 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 3,825
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They look pretty good. Given their decent development, I'd leave them under lights for now. Let their little feet get used to their new shoes.
And if you have a way to give them more light, do it. In your recent posts you seem unsure about increasing light intensity. Let me assure you, you can't give them too much (within reason).
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Stupidity got us into this mess. Why can't it get us out? - Will Rogers |
December 28, 2016 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Invercargill New Zealand
Posts: 1,022
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Hi...Thakyou..its nice to know one is on the right track...I am doing so many things at the moment its hard to keep track of everything ...of course I see (have seen) the commercially grown plants with their thick stems and healthy foliage in the gardening centres with envy ...but a lot of them soon get leaf problems probably due to overhead watering....
I am at present putting mine on a self watering capilary cloth because I have had wonderful results with this in the past ..I wish I knew if doping my reservoir water with a weak solution of a soluable solution...like miracle grow .I have only the best in my photo ..there are some that have a slower growth rate but they are all looking strong...I did lose some one in the propagator as well as a few no show so depending on what they were i may do a limited reseed.. BTW..I am unsure about everything...I would suggest you have no idea what I get from the garden centres here...its almost at the point of my doing what they tell me not to do and there is always a conflict in opinion seeking help from them as I get here on Tomatoville...of course there appears to me to be a very limited range of fungicides with many relying on baking soda....If one does a proper research one can find what I think is an equivilant to Daconil and Serenade but only in commercial growing quatity...Later I am going to check all this...and then see if there is any way I can buy from a grower in my area.. Cheers Ron |
December 29, 2016 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MA/NH Border
Posts: 4,919
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Lights and a slightly cooler temp will help keep them from stretching out too much and getting leggy. Once they get "settled" in their new homes, start putting a fan on them for a couple of hours every day--just enough to move the leaves around a bit. And if you use a fan, pay attention to moisture levels as the breeze might dry them out quicker.
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December 29, 2016 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Invercargill New Zealand
Posts: 1,022
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Hi..Thankyou ...I wonder where I caould find a cooler place in the house,wash-house or in the garage ..I saw one of my new plants quickly shrivel due to the wind cause we get burning winds in the summer IE the sun does not have to be out and shining ....and thats why I am going to be xtra careful where I put them...I think the wash house would be best....Cheers Ron..
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December 29, 2016 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MA/NH Border
Posts: 4,919
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Based on some info posted a while back, around 65F/18C is a good temp for slowing down seedling growth, so don't go too cool.
And like I said, a fan to just gently move the leaves is really all you need. Or some people just use their hand to brush the tops of the plants several times throughout the day. |
December 29, 2016 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E
Posts: 5,041
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Ron, check this out.
Last edited by amideutch; December 29, 2016 at 08:39 AM. Reason: You were already given the cold treatment thread |
December 31, 2016 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Invercargill New Zealand
Posts: 1,022
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What do you mean?
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December 31, 2016 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pewaukee, Wisconsin
Posts: 3,150
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The link was given to you in another thread where you had already asked the exact same question. The answers were the more light, cold treatment, (and you were given the link to a thread about that subject) fans and the addition of calcium.
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~ Patti ~ Last edited by MissS; December 31, 2016 at 10:50 AM. |
December 31, 2016 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Invercargill New Zealand
Posts: 1,022
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Patti...Its always puzzled me ..."cold Treatment"....do i put them in a fridge ...?? My house is basicly the same temperature throughout ...I do not have home heating or anything like that ....Cheers Ron
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January 2, 2017 | #11 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pewaukee, Wisconsin
Posts: 3,150
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Quote:
The "cold treatment" is one of the best methods to promote sturdy, thick stems. Unfortunately it is not an option for you unless you have an air conditioner available. This would not only supply the wind which also promotes thick stems but also give the plants the cooler temps. Most people start their seeds 6-12 weeks BEFORE their last frost date not 12 weeks after which is what you are doing. If the seeds are started BEFORE the last frost, then there is plenty of opportunity to allow the plants to be exposed to cooler but not freezing temperatures before planting out. It is now the equivalent of our July where you live which is not an ideal time to be starting any tomato seeds. At this point I would have chosen 10 or so of your healthiest plants to work with. I would try to clean them up and grow them out well. I would have waited until March or April to start a FEW more seeds to grow as an indoor crop, if you are going to be having one this year.
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~ Patti ~ |
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December 29, 2016 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NewYork 5a
Posts: 2,303
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I'm not familiar with your growing season. You mentioned it is the middle of your summer? My seedlings are that size well ahead of my summer. Then spend a month or more under grow lights, adjusting plants and lights so the top of the plants are 2-3 inches close under the light bank. That helps to grow stronger stems so the plants do not reach and get leggy seeking the light.
Maybe they will do best for a week or two under your lights. Let them dry out a bit before watering...they get a good watering, nice amount and top watered when transplanting to get the soil nice and compacted removing air pockets. Then bottom watered form now on. -sit pots in a water tray for 5 min until they feel heavy again. Possibly a completely different system for your climate. What are your indoor/outdoor/greenhouse temps? |
December 29, 2016 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
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I move everything outside into my greenhouse as soon as weather permits, so the plants can get acclimated to the UV rays of natural sunlight. The bigger the plant is, the more effort is required to harden it off to UV rays, otherwise all the growth that happened inside just burns off in the sun.
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December 31, 2016 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: south carolina
Posts: 175
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Starting healthy plants
I live in South Carolina and start my own seeds in March.Average daily temp 60's while Sun is up.As soon as I see seeds beginning to sprout I put in Sun for all day.I only use grow lights on cloudy days.Plants start growing under Sun light from very beginning.You get a sturdy dark green plant with that purple base.No hardening off needed.Transplant to 6 in. pots when first true leaves have developed.As plants grow I will pick some to go in 1 gal. pots.Still all outside during the day.At night I put back on heating mats and plants do very well until ready for the garden.
Last frost date April 1 but do not put plants in garden until night time low is at or above 50 dgs. for 6 - 7 days. I plant 2 flats 72 each so I can move in and out very easy. If you start your plants 1 mth. before last frost I would think you could put your plants outside in direct Sun during the day.Why use grow lights if they are not needed? I do realize all growing zones are not the same.Just my way. |
December 31, 2016 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: u/k
Posts: 41
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Hi Ron ,sorry I got it wrong about moss on a closer look at the pic it looks like rockwool, as regards grow lights as you are in the heights of summer in N Z I cannot think for the life of me why you need them you must be getting 18 hours of daylight there now. Stand your plants in the greenhouse on staging and VENTILATE IT
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