Soil sample results

[BigVanVader]

Here are my soil results, I cant get the bar graph to post right so I just pasted the rest. Any thoughts? This is my first time testing since moving. What does buffer PH mean? Why are they recommending so much Calcium Nitrate if my Calcium is excessive? I'm going to call them and go over some of this but wanted to get insights from you pros at TV.


Analysis Results
Soil pH 6.1
Buffer pH 7.55
bar graph
Phosphorus (P) 125 lbs/acre Excessive
Potassium (K) 223 lbs/acre High
Calcium (Ca) 2906 lbs/acre Excessive
Magnesium (Mg) 522 lbs/acre Sufficient
Zinc (Zn) 24.8 lbs/acre Sufficient
Manganese (Mn) 81 lbs/acre Sufficient
Boron (B) 1.3 lbs/acre Sufficient
Copper (Cu) 1.1 lbs/acre
Sodium (Na) 23 lbs/
Sulfur (S) lbs/acre
Soluble Salts mmhos/cm
Nitrate Nitrogen ppm
Organic Matter % (LOI)
Calculations Base Saturation
Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) Acidity Ca Mg K Na Total
13.4 meq/100g 3.6 meq/100g 54% 16% 2% 0% 73%
Recommendations Lime
Crop
Home Garden (Inorganic) No Lime Required
See Comments: 118,174,654

Comments
118 Two cups (1 pint) fertilizer is equal to approximately 1 pound. Three-quarter pint limestone weighs approximately 1 pound.

174 Before planting, broadcast and work into the soil either 6 lbs calcium nitrate (15.5-0-0) or 3 lbs 34-0-0 per 1,000 square feet (or for each 300 feet of row). Three weeks after appearance of first new leaves, apply four inches from base of the plants, either 10 lbs calcium nitrate (15.5-0-0) or 5 lbs 34-0-0 per 300 feet or row in a continuous band.

654 Soil test again next year if either phosphorus (P) or potassium (K) is high or excessive to monitor levels.

[Gardeneer]

Looks good. pH is a bit on the low side but it is ok for tomatoes. 6.8 is ideal for most garden vegetables.
ALL soil analysis that I have seen indicated excessive amount of P as it tends to accumulate.
Potassium also often is on the high side. It too sticks around quite a while.
Nitrogen is often low as it is consumed more and/or leaches down. That is why it has to be added continuously.

BTW: I am still waiting for my soil test result. Being my first year garden down here ( converted from native soil/grass, added some leaves and wood ash ) have no idea what to expect but my own pH test looks pretty good.

[PaulF]

Buffer pH: This is a value that is generated in the laboratory, it is not an existing feature of the soil. Laboratories perform this test in order to develop lime recommendations, and it actually has no other practical value.

While you have calcium in the soil, the pH is a little low so additional lime is called for. Nitrogen is also needed to balance things out, therefore calcium nitrate will help get the nitrogen in alignment with the P and K for a balanced soil.

My soil pH is very high so I need sulphur and nitrogen to achieve that balance. Do what the lab says and see what happens. Sometimes it takes years.

[BigVanVader]

Thanks y'all, they said no lime but I had already added 10lbs to my beds before the results came back. I'm also confused by the (Inorganic) notation since I listed the sample as organic.

[Spartanburg123]

The buffer pH is a calibration standard for the pH electrode. It "zeroes" the instrument, so to speak, so the meter will be accurate in its pH measurement of your sample.

Paul is right, your pH should be raised by adding calcium hydroxide (lime). Dolomitic lime (pellet type) is a slower release soil amendment and probably one that I will use here in Spartanburg, not far from you Vader. My soil is also acidic.

[AKmark]

I think the pH is right on the money, I keep my pH at 6.2, that is what Haifa, and HG both call for when producing tomatoes. Higher pH is why they Chelate certain micro elements, I would study up on that a bit too. You also need to look at what elements are mobile and immobile, that will tell you which ones will leach from your soil. Last, remember that K is the most important element that tomatoes require.

Your next step is a leaf analysis, when you can supply one, that will tell you exactly what to add or back off on.

[BigVanVader]

Thanks Mark, good to know. Should I sample the leaf with fertilization or before starting the fert regiment? Was going to use TTF.

[AKmark]

I would start with small doses, watch for any deficiency. Look for the Haifa guide, it has very useful pictures to help you when looking for problems. Get on the HG site, there are two labs you can use, they have very good directions telling you when to do the leaf sample and how.

Good luck, you are doing this the right way.

http://www.newagenutrients.com/educa...ent-chelation/

https://nrcca.cals.cornell.edu/soilF...CA1_print.html

I looked at several sites for you, and since your in soil you can fudge your pH a bit more, and e can see your well within given parameters. However... we want next to perfect right?
http://www.harvesttotable.com/2013/1...ph-tolerances/

[Spartanburg123]

Great links, AKmark! Thanks!

Darin

[AKmark]

Originally Posted by Spartanburg123

Great links, AKmark! Thanks!

Darin

No problem, we are all a team here. I have a bunch of this stuff saved, and read through it frequently, so it seems fit to share it when it applies.

BTW, I found my 5.42 Terhune seeds if you want a couple?

[Spartanburg123]

Originally Posted by AKmark

No problem, we are all a team here. I have a bunch of this stuff saved, and read through it frequently, so it seems fit to share it when it applies.

BTW, I found my 5.42 Terhune seeds if you want a couple?

Sure thing! I have 3 Terhune competitions from Marianna's now 4 inches tall, and the fastest germinating seeds I've ever witnessed! I'll PM you with my address! Thanks

Darin

[Worth1]

I thought the PH of 6.1 was fine too.
I would never add lime to soil unless I knew it needed it by way of a PH test.
Worth

[Gardeneer]

I am not a soil expert but from what I have read over the years, tomato can grow and thrive in a wide pH range ; 5.8 to almost 7. But most garden veggies do well with somewhat acid soil and 6.8 being the ideal.
Waiting fro my soil test. If needed to raise pH, I have lots of wood ash. If needed to lower it I have piles of top soil from under the trees in the wooded area. Tractor Supplies sells some pulverized quick acting lime ( to raise pH) and the price is very reasonable.

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by Gardeneer

I am not a soil expert but from what I have read over the years, tomato can grow and thrive in a wide pH range ; 5.8 to almost 7. But most garden veggies do well with somewhat acid soil and 6.8 being the ideal.
Waiting fro my soil test. If needed to raise pH, I have lots of wood ash. If needed to lower it I have piles of top soil from under the trees in the wooded area. Tractor Supplies sells some pulverized quick acting lime ( to raise pH) and the price is very reasonable.

If I were you I would go with wood ash instead of quick acting lime.
Why because it takes care of potassium too, AKA-K/potash on the big three nutrients.
A little will go a long way so dont get carried away.
I just about bet yours is really close to 7.

Worth

[Gardeneer]

Originally Posted by Worth1

If I were you I would go with wood ash instead of quick acting lime.
Why because it takes care of potassium too, AKA-K/potash on the big three nutrients.
A little will go a long way so dont get carried away.
I just about bet yours is really close to 7.

Worth

Agree, Worth.
I have no reason to buy lime. As you said, wood ash has a host of minerals and elements that exist in wood ash, all in a readily available form.
My own home kit test indicates a pH of about 6.5. We shall see how lab test compares. I have also sent in a mix (~50/50) acidic topsoil and wood ash in addition to garden soil samples.
My cool/cole crops right now doing just fine (onions, garlic, parsley, peas ...). This is with the fact that we are still getting lows around frost line.