Raised bed product options

[Cole_Robbie]

Some friends of mine want to build raised beds in the back yard of their new house. They want to avoid treated lumber. What are their options for the sidewalls of the beds? I am familiar with synthetic decking boards, but they would want a more rigid synthetic board product. Cedar is also an option, as well as any untreated wood products.

I will pass along all of your ideas. Thanks.

[NewWestGardener]

Cinder blocks.

[adewilliams]

Mine are built out of untreated cedar. It wasn't necessarily inexpensive, but the beds are beautiful and they are a feature in the yard. I also love the way that cedar ages. If they decide they don't want to build their own, they might want to consider Farmstead raised beds, which are easy to assemble and made of untreated white cedar. They're also really lovely too. (I work in interior design, so everything has to be attractive to me as well. )

[Gardeneer]

I have made from inexpensive cedar boards : 5/8" x 5 1/2 " x 6ft. Each boar cost under 2 buck.
With 6 of them I made a 3ft x 6ft ( 11 " deep) bed. I had 12 of them.
Total cost (per bed )including 2"x2" cedar for the corner and screws ~~ $15. That is 85 cents per square foot of planting surface. Say a buck. Another buck per sq-ft for soil to fill: TOTAL COST PER SQ-FT = $2. If you make 100 square foot of planting are , it will cost you $200. But, wait! You have to do it yourself. !!
For some of you 5/8" thick might sound like too thin !! Well, when I left my previous location, the beds that I had made 4 seasons ago were intact in the wet PNW climate. .

[Greatgardens]

Where did you find cedar boards that cheap? And 5/8" sounds like a non-standard thickness, so these boards sound like something that you couldn't go into a Lowes (etc.) and buy. (?)

I've been wrestling with the idea of building a raised bed, also to add to my EarthBoxes. And I always come back to cedar as the first choice.


-GG

[Gardeneer]

Originally Posted by Greatgardens

Where did you find cedar boards that cheap? And 5/8" sounds like a non-standard thickness, so these boards sound like something that you couldn't go into a Lowes (etc.) and buy. (?)

-GG

In Seattle WA. Those are commonly used to make fence.
Both HD and Lowes sell them up there. Down here in NC, Lowes is selling them too.

[jmsieglaff]

Definitely a matter of cost vs. life as well as the amount of effort to expend.

I used cinder blocks, they should last for basically ever:
http://www.tomatoville.com/showpost....9&postcount=54

Now for a couple raised beds this was doable, if one were building a lot of beds it might just cost too much.

I bought the split-faced tan ones, which costed more but I wanted them to look a little nicer since I live on a relatively standard small-ish suburban lot. Plain blocks would be cheaper. They are heavy and I scored and split ones to fit the exact dimensions I wanted, but if you have the space you could let the block dimensions dictate your bed dimensions.

[Ricky Shaw]

Yep, the wide cedar fencing in 1/2 or 5/8 thick work fine. Won't last a long as thick cedar planks, you just change them out as they deteriorate. Backbrace them with some stakes or blocks, I've had those fencing boards last for years.

[Rockporter]

We used pressure treated 2x4 frames for my 8' x 3' raised beds hubby built, I think around 4 years ago, pics attached. I know you said anything untreated is an option, but treated really can come in handy.

We lined them with wood fence cedar planks, these can be removed at anytime and replaced. The boards are not nailed in or screwed in, they are held in by the way he designed them to sit within each other and the soil. I lined them with black weed cloth to hold in the soil. One bed was filled and has been wet with soil for all these years. The other sat empty doing nothing all of this time. It has been filled now and will be in use this season.

Both beds are still in perfect condition, other than the silvery color that cedar happens to get. So, I get the best of both worlds, a nice box with a pressure treated frame, and an inside lined with cedar fence boards I can replace if ever needed. These weren't cheap, but they resemble the first boxes my husband ever made me back in 2000. My friend is still using those old boxes for her flowers and said she has never replaced any boards.

[bower]

Cedar would cost the earth here, which is too bad since it lasts so well without treatment. It's probably affordable in Illinois, I would guess.
An alternative is to use a cheaper plank lumber, and treat it yourself on both sides with double boiled linseed oil. This extends the life of a plank for many years, and besides preventing rot it also discourages wood eating insects.

If your friends are concerned to avoid toxic stuff, they would have to look for a linseed oil product without any additives, as many of the products on the market now have added dryers including toxic metals and are not even boiled.
http://www.falconsessentialoils.com/...inseedoil.html
http://www.swingpaints.com/product/2...ed-Linseed-Oil

[Worth1]

Board pondering.
First not all cedar is cedar.
What we call cedar is Ash Juniper and related species.
This is one of the types found throughout the Midwest also and is nothing like true cedars.
The stuff will last for ages and much longer than the western red cedar.
In many places here it is almost exclusively used for fence posts.
You cant get this stuff as lumber in any big box store around here you have to go to the sawmill.
Which by the way is right up the road from me by about 4 miles.

Depending on the money and what a person wanted to spend is where the options are for a raised bed.
It would also depend on if the person was hiring someone to do it or themselves.
And what they are capable of doing.

Lets look at concrete.

A 3.5X10.5 slab of concrete 3 inches thick is approximately 9.88 cubic feet of concrete.
Two cubic yards (2.042) of concrete will make about 6 of these slabs.
Now the sides at 3 inches thick and 18 inches tall.
That will be another 2.25 cubic yards.
So you would need 4.292 cubic yards to make six concrete raised beds with root protection on the bottom.
To make one it would be just about .750 cubic yards or .715 to be exact.
If it were me I would just make them 3.5 inches thick and the sides 3.5 inches because this is the width of a 2X4
10 cubic yards or one truck load of soil will fill all 6 raised beds.

If a person can do this work themselves and rent or buy a mixer they can do two a weekend easily.
In 3 weekends they will have 6 really nice last for many years to come raised beds.
You only need to build the forms once and just reuse them for each bed.


Worth

[Worth1]

Real Tung oil and turpentine to seal the wood is far better but more costly than linseed oil.
Linseed comes in second but is good too.
You can drink real Tung oil it is non toxic.
Mix turpentine and Tung oil 50-50.
The turpentine will evaporate all it is for is to help the Tung oil penetrate the wood.
Linseed oil will not polymerize like real Tung oil.

Why do I say real Tung oil?
Because the stuff you get at the big box stores is not real Tung oil.
It is Tung oil finish and may not have any Tung oil in it at all or if it does very little.
When you buy guns or furniture for example and it says walnut finished stock or wood it is not walnut it is stained to look like walnut.

Tung oil is the number one sealer they use on wooden boats and for good reason it is the best.
Everything else is a cheap substitute.

Worth

[whoose]

http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=43790

This is an attempt to answer many of yours and other questions about raised beds.

[whoose]

How to Construct a Raised Bed with Low Tunnel
How to Construct a Raised Bed with Low Tunnel

This post is intended to be an experiential based discussion of how to make a raised bed. There are many consideration that I will try to cover and some controversies. I will have Tomatoville post for reference from many discussion that already have been had controversial topics.

My credentials: Psychology Professor by trade (retired), I have been a home owner level carpenter all my life, I built a log house, two garages and a greenhouse. I have done maintenance on these building for the last 40 years. I have tools, not that modern, but sufficient for the task. Last year I built seven raised beds, five with low tunnels. I plan one more raised bed for this Spring.

Please feel free to add to the discussion, we all are here to learn from each other.

Why build a raised bed?

Many of us are happy with our container gardens or regular garden spaces. Some of us want to expand to the next level of the raised bed.

Some of the advantages of raised bed are:

• Maximizing the amount of soil for growing plants.
• Allowing for easy applications of compost and fertilizer.
• Easier control of weeds.
• The ability build soil is enhanced.
• Raised beds just look nice.

Where to build a raised bed?

Ideally a south facing exposure on level ground is the most desirable. Many of us are not lucky enough to have this ideal.

Try to avoid these situation.

• Trees, brush, tall grass, large roots.
• Rock outcrops that are not level.
• Long distances for your water source.
• Shade.

What to use to build a raised bed?

Almost anything you can stack, form or pile will work:

• Clay Bricks.
• Concrete walls.
• Cinder blocks.
• Retaining wall blocks.
• Hay bales.
• The buckets from your container garden.
• Wood.

Most of use think of wood as the primary material used for construction of raised beds. There are many types of wood available depending on your location and how much money you are willing to spend.

Types of wood include:

• Redwood.
• Western Red Cedar.
• Eastern Cedar.
• Cyprus.
• Pine.
• Fir.
• Hardwoods.

Just about anything that is natural wood will work.

• No plywood please.
• No railroad ties either.

The amount of time it takes wood to rot in soil depends on the wood type. The most expensive woods (Redwood, and Cedars) last longer than Pine and Fir. So depending on how long you expect the raised bed to last and your budget you can pick the type of wood.

There has been a lot of discussion on using treated wood on this forum.

Pressure treated wood is treated with an arsenic-like compound in most cases.

The some questions to consider:

• How much leeches into the ground?
• How much leeches into your plants?
• How much longer does treated wood last than regular lumber?
• How long does it take for the chemical to break down in the environment?

For question that you will have to consider, see the following:

Pressure treated lumber and raised beds http://www.tomatoville.com/showthrea...t=treated+wood

Treated lumber?http://www.tomatoville.com/showthrea...t=treated+wood

Paint for raised beds?
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=38776&highlight=treated+wood

My view is why take the chance???

For me it is hard to say Organic and treated lumber in the same sentence. So if you are organic probably do not used treated wood. I use 2X Western Red Cedar, very expensive but why take a risk? The cedar beds will out last me for sure. I have two grandkids and prefer not to take any more chances than necessary with their health. If you sell your produce you must consider the implications of using treat wood.


So Lets Build Some Raised beds

You now have decided on the site and type of material. I will discuss using dimensional lumber for raised beds.

Buy your lengths of lumber carefully, this stuff can be really expensive. Use even 2 foot dimensions for the long sides and try to have to make only one cut for the short sides. For example 8'x4' is a no waste bed with only one cut from 3, 8 foot boards. Many of us do not have power carpenter tools like precision saws. A good way to solve this problems is to have the big box or local lumber yard make the cuts for you, only a dollar of two, and very precise cuts, which you will need.

How to join the sides, front and back of the bed?

I use 4X4 posts in each corner and sink large bolts through the 2X into the 4X4, this will not fail for a very long time. The 4X4 method also allows for easy addition of the next course of boards. I leave the 4X4 about 1 inch below the finished soil for a nice look. You can use metal corner braces, get as big as you can, they will also last a long time. Use only treated non-rusting screws, nails loosen and work their way out. I put a 2X4 as a brace between the front and back in the middle to keep the boards from trying to bow out from the weight of the soil. This brace is also a good place to sit.

How high should my bed be?

I start with 2X12 boards for the bottom course and then can add 12, 10, 8, or 6 inch boards for the next course. I find 20 inches is about right for me, try out different heights and find the one you like. Remember to leave your corner 4X4 the correct height for the new course of lumber. The bed makes a great seat, the older you get the more you appreciate a good resting area.

Raised bed height
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=43033&highlight=treated+wood

Building on a sloping area?

You will need to drive large 2X4 stakes in the corners and middle of the bed to keep it from moving down hill. I also place stakes on the uphill side to help slow the movement. Worst case is the bed migrates down hill until it breaks the wood or pulls the screws.

Where to Build the raised beds?

I like to comfort of my garage for the construction of the raised beds. I then put the bed in my truck and take it to the site. I almost always have projects during what we call the "mud season" or Spring here in the West, so nice dry, warm work place is nice. You can build in place but use saw horses to elevate you work.

Screening the bottom?

I use hardware cloth, small metal mesh, on the bottom of my beds. I have Voles, Moles, Gophers, and other burying rodents that I do not want in my beds. The hardware cloth stops them dead. If you are a double digger leave the screen out. See, below.

Birds? Mice? Rats? Squirrels?
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=42604&highlight=mice

Landscape fabric

Also consider using landscape fabric in the bottom of the beds to help control any weeds trying to grow from the bottom of the raised bed.

The soil?

First decision, organic or not. Your call, see.

Organic/growing compendium and resource listing
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=4636

How to buy soil?

Bags are easy but expensive. Landscape contractors are cheaper and have good access to very good soil. They will also will deliver large amounts to you site relatively cheaply. Try to make your own compost going forward. See.

Compost bin and building compost question
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=36787&highlight=treated+wood

Chicken poo and sawdust
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=40453&highlight=treated+wood

Additives

Another consideration with commercial soil is the uses of bio solids, sewer bi-products (sludge) in soil mixes. The manufacturer must list bio solids in the list of ingredients. Very different views by different people, but it is you choice. See:

Sewage (bio solids) in your compost?
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=42694&highlight=whoose


Low Tunnel

While you are at it add some low tunnels to your raised beds. Very easy, quick and relatively inexpensive. The advantages of low tunnels are about 1 month early planting in the Spring and 1 month longer before killer frost in the Fall. That is a big deal at 6000 feet in the Northern Rockies.

You also get what I consider to be a very important edge, higher soil and air temperatures. These might be the missing ingredients in a successful garden, especially at higher altitudes with short seasons. Where I live the temperature rarely gets over 80f and 50f at night, so hot soil and air really area must.

Lets build a low tunnel

I use schedule 40 white 1/2" PVC plastic pipe for the hoops in a low tunnel. For the end supports of the hoops I use 1' schedule 40 white PVC plastic pipe, attached with galvanized brackets. Very easy to install and last for a long time. Be sure to try and bend the pipe for the hoops after it has been in the sun for a while, or use a heat gun. Schedule 40 is tough stuff but you can break cold pipe. Stay away from the cheaper thin wall pipe, it is bound to fail. I disassemble my hoops for the winter and store out of the weather.

Covering for a low tunnel

I use 6 mil clear poly plastic. Lumber yards sell very large roles of the stuff, it is not cheap, but worth it. Do not try to save money with 2 or 4 mil it will fail far too soon. The 6 mil will last one season and then it is off to recycling. Some specialty green house stores have higher quality plastic but I find the cost too high.

You live in a HOT climate and do not need the heat provided by a low tunnel or the extended season. But you can still use the low tunnel, you will want to stop lost of uninvited guests. See:

Birds? Mice? Rats? Squirrels?
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=42604&highlight=mice

You can use netting/screening to stop most mammals, insects, birds for destroying your plants.

Too hot in the summer is a problem many of us would like to have but if you do have too high temperatures you need to mitigate the problem. You can put shade cloth over the low tunnel and provide shade and lower temperature. See:

Thoughts on shade cloth
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=43248&highlight=whoose


Ending Thoughts

So let me know your experiences and how to improve my basic raised beds and low tunnels.
Attached Images


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[cwavec]

Sawmill is the best idea if you want to avoid treated lumber.
Are there any Amish in your vicinity. A lot of them run sawmills
and they do know their wood. They might take small orders too.
And probably deliver.

I'm planning to make raised beds later (after I get my fencing done)
and not planting boxes as shown earlier. Sides only and open bottoms.
I will ask at the mill for exclusively white oak, 4/4 ( that's one inch thick),
unplaned.

The more flexibility you can allow the mill operator, the more likelihood
you will get a deal. For a planting bed I do not need the best looking
lumber. It can have knots, splits and so on. There will be some waste.
I will look for width around 8" but will take variations. Length around
8 to 12 feet, again allowing variations.

Logs are a natural product and what is inside is largely unknown
until the log is opened. The sawyer will always select for the highest
quality because that is where he will get the best price. Usually there
is a lot left over that will never make any grade. If you can live with that
and don't have to make detailed specifications, including size, you
could do very well. If you absolutely must have precise dimensions,
go to Lowe's and pay the price. Just remember, the log those nice
8' boards came out of was never exactly 8' long. It was always longer
and what's left over after you get your grades and dimensions out
is still stacked somewhere waiting for somebody to make raised beds.