Good liquid fertilizer

[uno]

Last year I mixed pro mix and compost together for my seed starting mix like I usually do and I messed it up pretty bad and had some really bad looking plants as a result.

This season I want to go back to using liquid fertilizer (organic if possible) to start my plants off indoors and I wanted some suggestions on what seems to work well.

Thanks

Jim

[peebee]

Not a fertilizer recommendation but have you tried sowing in a different medium? I've used Ultrsorb ever since RayR posted this here:

http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=22329

Never looked back; works like a dream every time and I have never had damping off since. You can use fertilizer after you pot them up in your choice of potting mix later. I like Promix at this stage, not for seed starting.

I use very diluted fish emulsion or combo fish/seaweed fert, bottom feeding if I feel the seedlings need a boost.

[Cole_Robbie]

All you really need is inert media like pro mix, and a wee tiny bit of the "blue stuff." I cover my seeds with vermiculite. Peat will form a crust that is hard for the sprouts to break.

My hat is off to the people on here who can have success with compost in their media and using organic fertilizers for seedlings. I think that is great, but it does not work for me. I think the difference is that my seedlings are grown in an unheated greenhouse that dips into the high 30's and low 40's at times. The cold messes with the correct bacterial balance you need to use organics - at least that is my guess. If I tried it again, with organic ferts, I would keep everything warm on cold nights. A low temp of 60 would be the minimum for best results...just my guess.

[Labradors2]

Originally Posted by Cole_Robbie

My hat is off to the people on here who can have success with compost in their media and using organic fertilizers for seedlings. I think that is great, but it does not work for me. I think the difference is that my seedlings are grown in an unheated greenhouse that dips into the high 30's and low 40's at times. The cold messes with the correct bacterial balance you need to use organics - at least that is my guess. If I tried it again, with organic ferts, I would keep everything warm on cold nights. A low temp of 60 would be the minimum for best results...just my guess.

That is most interesting concept Cole! I tried using an "Organic" Pro Mix which contains nutrients, as well as some kelp in a few of my seedling pots last spring. For the first time ever, I had damping off in my cool, 50F basement.

Linda

[bower]

I have to say I hated Promix. So peaty it stayed way too wet for the conditions here. I don't water much because it's cold where my seedlings are, but when you water you also want it to drain off and not just stay like a sponge. And when you let it dry out, it's downright nasty and inhospitable to the plants. I tried two types and the one with mycos wasn't any better.
As regards organic nutrients for seedlings, I use a pinch of bone meal in the cell packs and then about a teaspoon in the beer cup or 4 inch pot. I mix it in when the cell or pot is 3/4 full, then top off with plain potting mix. It's important to mix it down, otherwise you will end up with a ring of roots only where the bone meal was (yes I forgot to mix once... it was pretty obvious what happened! ). Main reason for using dry instead of wet ferts, is the need to tailor watering to the actual water needs when seedlings are in the cold. This way I'm also sure that each seedling got the same amount, vs watering needs which depend on the vigor of the seedling and other factors (no they never seem to dry out at the same rate entirely. )
For liquid organic ferts, I mix up fish emulsion with some blackstrap molasses. The blackstrap is a potassium source plus micronutrients, and it has the added benefit of neutralizing the fish smell. Big score for indoor use.

[zipcode]

Liquid organics cost too much or smell too bad, or both. For transplants you can use a starter slow release granular, works great, no guessing how much to water with it.

[Father'sDaughter]

I use the Texas Tomato Food Vegetable formula very diluted for seedlings (not seed starting), a little stronger dilution after up potting, then regular strength when they go out to the garden. Once they start flowering, I switch over to the Tomato Food. Not labeled organic, but close enough for me.

[BigVanVader]

I can second TTF, I also use fish emulsion/kelp blend. For starts the best organic fert is urine. Dilute 10/1 for seedlings. Be careful about using it outdoors because dogs will want to pee where you use it. I typically only use it for seedlings and the compost pile.

[Ricky Shaw]

FloraNova, Grow 7-4-10, $30qrt and makes 350gals at full strength, like 8cents a gallon

For seedlings, I go 3/4 strength at 1tsp per gallon. Which translates to about a shot glass per 5gallon bucket.

Also, just as important to me is a mix that is difficult to over-water. Overly damp media increases the possibility of disease, which is increased even further by cold conditions.

High porosity, non-fertilized, sterile as possible mix. I like: ProMixHP, Coir70%/Perlite30%, Peat70%/Perlite30%, Peat70%/Perlite20%/Vermiculite10%

[bower]

Yeah, re: the potting mix or media, I am still struggling to replicate the discontinued local potting mix that worked perfectly for me in the past. Nominally a mix of their high quality compost with peat at about 30% compost, no perlite. Tried making mix with a bale of sphagnum peat, it was awful. The quality of the local peat is completely different. It is much finer grained, nearly black in color, and has never been put through the commercial drying process which makes it so difficult to wet again. The commercial peat dries out again in the worst way. I think it needs to break down and soak for a long time before it would be close to useable for me. The local peat is only available in bulk not by the bag, so I got some last spring and this year will try mixing my own again. The compost on its own is too crumbly and dries out in the indoor environment, it needs some peat but quality of the peat makes all the difference. And a bit of lime is needed too I think. I believe my pH was off a bit this past year, misjudged how much lime is required.

[Labradors2]

I feel for you, Bower. I was in the same boat, with a mix I was happy with - until it ran out.....

I'm sure you know that using boiling water is a fast way to moisten dehydrated peat-based potting mixes. I'm always in a rush, and have to wait for mine to cool down enough before planting the tiny seedlings. Btw, I am obsessive, and water my seedlings every day, using a teaspoon.

A friend uses Pro-mix and adds perlite to it. I can't even remember what I bought for seed starting this year, but it wasn't Pro-mix. It may have been Miracle Grow. Fingers crossed that I got a good one! I plan to add a little perlite and vermiculite to it, and your bonemeal idea sounds great too .

Linda
Linda

[bower]

Originally Posted by Labradors2

I'm always in a rush, and have to wait for mine to cool down enough before planting the tiny seedlings. Btw, I am obsessive, and water my seedlings every day, using a teaspoon.

Linda
Linda

Yes I did the deal with the "Sphagnum", hot water and into it with the rubber gloves on squeezing it up. I even used some dish soap. It was brown and fibrous though, even when sopping wet.
I love the image of you obsessively watering with a teaspoon! I am just as obsessive but using a mister. I fuss over the seeds squirting em or at least inspecting wetness twice a day until they germinate but I do back off the tomatoes and peppers once they are into their cell packs. They have to look dry at that point.
No respite for the greens I just sprouted though. Daily rain!

[Koala Doug]

After years of trial and error, I have settled on Pro-Mix HP (the 'high porosity' version) for containers. I get a compressed 3.8 cubic foot bale (it ends up being 7 cubic feet after expanding) for $25 from a local hydro shop.

My fertilizer of choice is Urban Farms' Texas Tomato Food. I got decent, but not great, results with a combination of Roots Organics products... though they just use the same supplier that most of the hydroponic companies use, so it's nothing special. I also had horrible results using the Miracle-Gro Tomato formula (I had to try it!). And now that the testing phase is over, I'm clearly a Texas Tomato Food convert.

[Antipodean]

For seedlings, organic fertilisers aren't that effective as the nutrients are not readily available, it takes time for the micro organisms to break it down and most mixes do not have an much micro activity. Actually many people don't fertilise at all until planted out. If you must, as suggested above, very diluted wee will do.....cheap and easy!

[maxjohnson]

Originally Posted by bower

Yeah, re: the potting mix or media, I am still struggling to replicate the discontinued local potting mix that worked perfectly for me in the past. Nominally a mix of their high quality compost with peat at about 30% compost, no perlite. Tried making mix with a bale of sphagnum peat, it was awful. The quality of the local peat is completely different. It is much finer grained, nearly black in color, and has never been put through the commercial drying process which makes it so difficult to wet again. The commercial peat dries out again in the worst way. I think it needs to break down and soak for a long time before it would be close to useable for me. The local peat is only available in bulk not by the bag, so I got some last spring and this year will try mixing my own again. The compost on its own is too crumbly and dries out in the indoor environment, it needs some peat but quality of the peat makes all the difference. And a bit of lime is needed too I think. I believe my pH was off a bit this past year, misjudged how much lime is required.

I know exactly what you mean by this, as I spent hundreds of dollars on pest moss based mix for my garden raised beds when I first started.

You may want to try FoxFarm Coco Loco potting mix, or something similar, not sure if it's available in Canada. It is dark brown almost black coconut coir that is very fluffy and well aged which mean it doesn't tie up nutrients. Those bags are expensive though I think.

For me, I mix Ecoscraps/Just Natural potting mix with compost (with varying ratio depending on how much drainage needed), then add additional vermiculite and perlite to further improve drainage. I pretty much avoid using peat based mixes to start seeds.

For liquid fertilizer, I bought 25lbs of each of these a while ago for my hydroponic project, which are powdered form to be diluted in warm water. Now I also use it on rare occasions to fix nutrient deficiencies. It's a quarter teaspoon per one gallon of water, although that's rated for hydroponic purpose, but 25lbs of these stuff will last for years for a small time gardener. Note you also need epsom salt and/or calcium nitrite to complete the formulas.
https://hydro-gardens.com/product/ho...s-bag-10-8-22/
https://hydro-gardens.com/product/to...s-bag-4-18-38/

I know FoxFarm have their line of liquid fertilizers too, but I can't justify their cost.

I can't use anything with fish unless I keep it locked indoor because the stray cats and racoon will destroy whatever have it poured on.