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Old April 29, 2018   #1
JoParrott
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Default Can someone help me with insecticide question-

A few years ago I found a liquid concentrate that could be used when transplanting vegetables that prevented spider mites and aphids from getting on the plants- it was very effective for my pole beans which always get mites. Can anyone tell me what it is? Obviously I no longer have any of it and don't recall where I found it! Thanks--
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Old April 29, 2018   #2
clkeiper
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was it a drench you applied to the soil or a spray you sprayed on the plant itself? if it was a drench it was probably imaclodaprid. if it was a spray? no idea. if it was a spray I would think you needed to apply it regularly?
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Old April 29, 2018   #3
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It was a soil drench that was only used once at transplant time and safe for edibles. i have sprays for spider mites but sometimes they get out of control!
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Old April 29, 2018   #4
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sounds like imaclodaprid.
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Old April 29, 2018   #5
Hellmanns
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The Amish around here call imidicloprid tater bug dope.
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Old April 29, 2018   #6
KarenO
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Tater bug dope...indeed

Amateur unregulated unlicensed pesticide application should be long a thing of the past in 2018.
This is a neonicotinoid pesticide highly toxic to bees and other beneficial creatures.
Soon to be Banned in Europe, Canada also swiftly working toward a total ban.


http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/arch...dacloprid.html
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Old April 30, 2018   #7
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Originally Posted by KarenO View Post
Tater bug dope...indeed

Amateur unregulated unlicensed pesticide application should be long a thing of the past in 2018.
This is a neonicotinoid pesticide highly toxic to bees and other beneficial creatures.
Soon to be Banned in Europe, Canada also swiftly working toward a total ban.


http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/arch...dacloprid.html
I'm gonna go buy a couple of cases of it before it's banned! It just takes a miniscule amount to kill tater bugs, and aphids, so 2 cases would last me, then my kids the rest of their lives.
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Old April 30, 2018   #8
KarenO
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Originally Posted by Hellmanns View Post
I'm gonna go buy a couple of cases of it before it's banned! It just takes a miniscule amount to kill tater bugs, and aphids, so 2 cases would last me, then my kids the rest of their lives.
enjoy your poison tomatoes and your dead pollinators.

systemic insecticide in edible plants can go along with the golf course fungicides, also systemic and toxic, frequently used by uneducated growers or those concerned only with profit as well.
I am relieved most of the world sees things differently these days.
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Old April 30, 2018   #9
Hellmanns
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enjoy your poison tomatoes and your dead pollinators.

systemic insecticide in edible plants can go along with the golf course fungicides, also systemic and toxic, frequently used by uneducated growers or those concerned only with profit as well.
I am relieved most of the world sees things differently these days.
Regards,
KarenO
I read somewhere that imidicloprid was present in at least 70% of the fresh, frozen, and canned vegetables in the supermarket. I'm sure you're completely self-sufficient, Karen, and can avoid all pesticide residues?
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Old April 30, 2018   #10
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I read somewhere that imidicloprid was present in at least 70% of the fresh, frozen, and canned vegetables in the supermarket.
If this is true then I certainly wouldn't want to add MORE poisons to the fresh produce that I grow at home.
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Old May 3, 2018   #11
asmx91
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I take:

1 litre water ( a quarter gallon)
1 tabelspoon rapeseed oil ( or an other plant oil) (perhaps neemoil)
1 splash washing-up liquid (to get an emulsion)
a teaspoon spirit (to let the pores of the leafes open)

when fungus are: 5 gram (or a teaspoon) baking soda

spray your plants 3 times in an interval from 3 days.
After that the plants don't look very nice, but after a week they get healthy.
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Old April 30, 2018   #12
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Quote:
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I'm gonna go buy a couple of cases of it before it's banned! It just takes a miniscule amount to kill tater bugs, and aphids, so 2 cases would last me, then my kids the rest of their lives.
For your kids??? I don't think that is such a good idea. Why move to the country just to poison it all? Teach your children well. Take care of what we have been given.
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Old April 30, 2018   #13
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For your kids??? I don't think that is such a good idea. Why move to the country just to poison it all? Teach your children well. Take care of what we have been given.
I used to read about the organic way of life, it's not for me.

The books would talk about how chemical fertilizers were killing the soil and such. I say boloney! The healthiest earth around these parts are the old tobacco fields that had tons of fertilizer dumped on them for decades. When I said tons for decades that is not exaggerating any at all. An acre of tobacco got around a ton of P and K, and around 1000 lbs of N per season. That's not counting the pesticides that were applied constantly.
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Old April 30, 2018   #14
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I used to read about the organic way of life, it's not for me.

The books would talk about how chemical fertilizers were killing the soil and such. I say boloney! The healthiest earth around these parts are the old tobacco fields that had tons of fertilizer dumped on them for decades. When I said tons for decades that is not exaggerating any at all. An acre of tobacco got around a ton of P and K, and around 1000 lbs of N per season. That's not counting the pesticides that were applied constantly.
I certainly don't go along with a lot of the organic theories. Almost everything used whether organic or not is made up of chemicals. I do agree that heavy use of chemical fertilizers will kill a lot of important organisms in the soil that help maintain that soil in a healthy state. When I first started gardening over 40 years ago in the same spot I am still growing in I followed the recommendations of the state agriculture school and the county agents. The result in less than five years was very sandy soil that became less and less productive. I did some research and started trying a lot of the organic methods and slowly but surely my soil returned to a healthy and productive state that I have been able to maintain. I still will use a small amount of chemical fertilizers when I need them but rarely do I need them with the addition of compost, cottonseed meal, greensand, and chicken manure along with soil builders like peat and pine bark fines. A good indicator or whether your soil is healthy is the amount of worms present. Mine is now like a worm bed in many places and they constantly make worm castings to help fertilize my plants. I do use a lot of Texas Tomato Food and their Vegetable formula but they are mostly natural with the exception of some elements that are necessary for plants that may not be totally organic but it works for my plants.

Down here going totally organic to control pests and diseases is a recipe for disastrous production most of the time due to the heavy disease pressure and the abundance of disease carrying bugs that start feeding on my plants; but I still try to use the least poisonous methods with the least lasting residual effects as much as possible.

Bill
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Old April 29, 2018   #15
JoParrott
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I don't think this is what I had- the drench I used was safe for vegetables- what people are describing sounds very dangerous.
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