New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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April 19, 2008 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Liverpool UK
Posts: 34
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Pumpkin & Squash
Hi, I know that this is a tomato fetish website, but I trust you lot and would like to pick your collective brains regarding Squashes & pumkins.
Last year I had a disaterous yeild of pumkins (only 1 decent fruit from 8 plants) and want to avaoid the same result this year. So when is the best time to start the plants off and apart from giving them ample feed & water is there any hting else I can do to get a decent harvest this year? Thanks Wes
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April 19, 2008 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Brownville, Ne
Posts: 3,296
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Was your problem a disease or the result of a pest infestation, or did the plants just not produce fruit? Healthy plants with no fruit would perhaps indicate a pollination problem. Squash and pumpkins need insect pollinators like bees or wasps, etc. If you lack those guys, I don't know what to do to help.
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April 20, 2008 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Central New Jersey Z/6
Posts: 554
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Hello Wesley.
The UK and its' damp climate might prove a difficult locale to grow pumps and squash. Prolonged periods of moisture, without drying sun, will lead to "powdery mildew". Was this a problem last year? JJ61 |
April 20, 2008 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 150
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Like the others suggested please list what problem you were having with the pumpkins.
After my pumpkin vines are a few inches high, I mulch really good with straw, to keep weeds out and it also keeps them drier. Pumpkins like moisture in the roots, but doesn't like them on the foilage. If you do water them, make sure you don't water the foilage. I would leave my hose on low and just let it trickle where the vines were. Drip irrigation works good as well, smack a pipe deep in the ground next to where the pumpkins will be planted. Then just water through the pipe. If you notice some white blotches (mildew) on the leaves, mist the leaves with skim milk. This could also be a sign that you're planting too many pumpkins too close together. Planting 8 pumpkin plants close together restricts airflow and will increase chance of disease. Either space them out, or plant a fewer number. |
April 21, 2008 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Liverpool UK
Posts: 34
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Thanks Guys,
I think the problem last year was the awful weather (one of the wettest on record). The plants started off well but were spindally and weak looking, despite having good fertile soil and plenty of manure. I just thought I may have missed a trick with pollonating (Some other folk have suggested manually pollonating the flowers with a small paint brush(?)) or committed some fatal mistake when transplanting them. I thought I would ask the question here as you all seem to know everything horticultural.
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All I give my garden is muck and love Nature does the rest |
April 22, 2008 | #6 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 150
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Quote:
Pollinating pumpkins is EASY! When you have a female flower open, pull off a male flower (preferably from a different plant), and literally just wipe the male flower all over the female part. No need for brushes . Lastly, don't transplant pumpkins, or any squash for that matter. They hate being transplanted! Wait until your last frost date, then directly sow them in the ground. They will germinate in a couple days and grow fast. No need to start these guys early . |
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April 21, 2008 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Liverpool UK
Posts: 34
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Not much of a problem with Mildew though. They just didnt fruit.
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All I give my garden is muck and love Nature does the rest |
April 22, 2008 | #8 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Liverpool UK
Posts: 34
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Quote:
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April 22, 2008 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 150
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What growing zone are you in? I'm in Zone 5b, and probably have a relatively close climate to the UK. It gets warm around here near the end of May and our growing season goes to near the end of September. It doesn't take long for pumpkins to produce, 2-3 months is all that's needed.
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April 22, 2008 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Liverpool UK
Posts: 34
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Im in the north west of England, On the other side of the Mersey River from Liverpool. But I'll give the direct sowing method a go this yera along with the ones I've already started off indoors.
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April 22, 2008 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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I don't know if I agree with the idea that curcurbits cannot be started indoors. It is true that they must be handled as gently as possible during transplant. But if you can transplant them without disturbing the roots, I don't see how that would be any different than starting outdoors? Case in point, the cucumber seeds I direct sowed did poorly. The seeds I sowed in a 4" pot and transplanted out (once they had opened their cotyledons) are doing fantastic.
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April 22, 2008 | #12 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 150
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April 26, 2008 | #13 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Charlotte
Posts: 25
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Quote:
Starting them indoors shouldn't be a problem. |
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April 26, 2008 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Ireland
Posts: 150
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Hi Wesley, the vast majority of England and Ireland are zone 8. It might give you an idea of when to plant indoors or not. I always start mine indoors in paper pots and plant the whole lot out when frost has passed, usually at the beginning of may.
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April 23, 2008 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: north central B.C.
Posts: 2,310
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...Well, when the soil doesn't warm up till mid June, and the first frost can be at the beginning of August, even a week or two's head start is worth it...
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