Information and discussion regarding garden diseases, insects and other unwelcome critters.
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July 24, 2010 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North Charleston,South Carolina, USA
Posts: 1,803
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I did take off the branches which were yellow yesterday, we had a huge thunderstorm last evening , more water it was looking better until this afternoon, now the green branches left are turning yellow, the leafs are dead I think. i will get the plants out tomorrow morning.the fruit have more red color, i may save the fruit
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July 25, 2010 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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I have seen fusarium wilt a single branch almost overnight. It is usually preceded by some yellowing of the lower leaves followed by gradual wilting of the whole branch; but sometimes with sudden temperature rises where the temps get in the upper 90s it will strike very quickly. It can wilt an entire young plant in a matter of days in that situation. Thank goodness it usually acts slower than that or I wouldn't get many tomatoes. I have a couple of plants still hanging on after having it for almost 2 months.
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July 25, 2010 | #18 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 692
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Quote:
My plants with BioVam and Trichoderma are still doing well, setting lots of fruit, whereas the non-treated are starting to fail, again. I am particularly pleased with the 'Big Beef' plants, quite huge fruit. |
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July 25, 2010 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: MT
Posts: 438
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Sorry, I should have said a glass is best, I was just thinking about what might work if one didn't feel like fetching a glass. ;0).
Caroline- do think it's possible that Northerners living in subdivisions and houses built in the last 30 years or so could be growing on imported dirt? I had a pool filled in here, and the dirt is so funky, that until this year I couldn't even get crab grass to grow in it. Also, my FIL had dirt brought in to built a house up higher, and everything around the imported dirt dies as well. Just a hypothesis. :0) (a generalized one- not nec. about this scenario)
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Sara Last edited by hasshoes; July 25, 2010 at 12:04 PM. Reason: adding |
July 25, 2010 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Beeman, Big Beef is one of the more disease tolerant and dependable tomatoes you will ever find. It is also very good tasting for a hybrid. One thing also you will find is it can tolerate most early frosts at the end of the year and keep producing longer than most. Over the years I have had a few fall to fusarium before their time but most just keep on pumping out tomatoes for a very long time. I just set out 4 of them for fall last week so I will be assured of some tomatoes right up til a hard freeze.
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July 25, 2010 | #21 | |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
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When I had my garage built in 2004 lots of fill was drawn in and it's mainly gravel, small pebbles and a smidgeon of real dirt. I had Freda put some daylilies in front of the garage and they were awful, so had her dig them up, bought a boatload of bagged top soil from Agway and replanted everything with the top soil at the bottom of the new planting holes. You could also contact some of the major contractors in your area and ask about fill sources over the last 30 years or so.
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Carolyn |
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July 25, 2010 | #22 | |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
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Quote:
Unusual in the same sense that I posted above about pockets of Fusarium being found in NYS and MA as well as VT, and persiting for short periods of time since Fusarium can't overwinter where the ground freezes deeply. And some of those pockets were from imported plants that had Fusaium. And some folks do it themselves by using seed that hasn't been treated that has Fusarium on the seed coat with seed they perhaps got by trading with folks who live in the South or along the Gulf Coast and up into CA who saved seed from Fusarium infected plants and didn't process the seed.
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Carolyn |
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July 25, 2010 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Santa Clara CA
Posts: 1,125
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This is very similar to what happened to my Goose Creek in a pot, but mine has progressed much more and the plant is just about done. The water teste revealed nothing. Has anybody suggested pests? From what I understand and researched is that russet mites (which are so small you cant even see them with the naked eye) can do damage like this too in a hurry.
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July 25, 2010 | #24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Elizabethtown, Kentucky 6a
Posts: 754
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Looks like Fusarium? Is that the main stem in the glass? Fusarium causes a discoloration of the vascular tissue that would be evident when you cut the main stem.
Last edited by Timmah!; July 25, 2010 at 03:41 PM. |
July 25, 2010 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North Charleston,South Carolina, USA
Posts: 1,803
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I pulled it out of the ground the roots had a very small base, the fruits were getting red also
Last edited by FILMNET; July 26, 2010 at 07:16 AM. |
July 25, 2010 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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Damon,
I've experienced the same thing here (about 6 miles from you) this Season. First, it was German Red Strawberry, then Paul Robeson went down. Then Brandywine Cowlicks and now 2 of my 8 Goose Creek. Big Beef, Purple Haze F4, JD Special C-Tex are all doing fine. I might have a combination of insect (Psyllids) as well as fungal problems in parallel this Season. Funny thing, not a trace of Powdery Leaf Mold / Mildew which has hammered me for the past 4 years. A quarter of my plants were purchased from Nurseries, and the other 3/4 were started from seeds - both saved as well as from third parties. Still trying to figure this out to prevent next year... Raybo |
July 25, 2010 | #27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: MT
Posts: 438
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Caroline- yeah, traded seeds and out of state plants are another thing I'm suspicious of. I got seeds last year that had been previously traded and never tried, also I've talked to four or five other people that ordered their plants from one of my sources that had very similar wilting and leaf problems as mine. I also know there was a greenhouse disease there a few years before that wiped out many plants. . . unfortunately everyone else pulled their plants before they got to the stage mine did, so it's all rather up in the air- could totally just be chance.
Sorry to keep pestering you with questions - but what types of temps and time are needed are needed to get rid of soil funk? I'm sure a normal winter would maybe do it here (would it obliterate bacterial diseases as well?), but we were one of the few areas that got off with a warmer winter this year and not much snow, so I tried out containers this year. And sorry too for *my* horrible sentences. After weeding my carpal tunnel just kills me (maybe I should buy a hoe? lol) and all I can think about while typing is "ow ow ow." Thanks again.
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Sara |
July 25, 2010 | #28 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 692
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Quote:
My big question is not where it came from, but how to get rid of it? Or even how to prevent losing plants year after year. You say it can't exist where the ground freezes deep, but mine comes back every year, and it's getting to be a pain. |
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July 26, 2010 | #29 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Santa Clara CA
Posts: 1,125
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Raybo- I'm just really bumded that its my CG, out of all the plants it had to be the GC.
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July 26, 2010 | #30 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
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Damon,
I should still be pulling Goose Creek off the remaining plants for another month or so. I'll "trade" you some for Paul Robeson?? Raybo |
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