Putting in a bed, moving away from containers

[KathyDC]

Hello!

For the past two years, I've been growing my tomatoes in containers, because I don't have a bed laid out or prepared. Next spring, I'd like to do away with the containers and put in a bed. It will be used almost exclusively for tomatoes, but I may sneak in a pumpkin or eggplant here and there. It will probably be about 16'x10' but the dimensions I haven't quite decided on yet. It may end up being larger.

The way my yard is arranged, and the closeness of my house to other houses, will preclude using much (any) equipment. Getting a tiller back there may be possible, but could also be problematic. However I get it done, if I'm going to do it myself I won't be able to use much in the way of large equipment.

In terms of soil and amendments, I'd like to keep it as simple as possible. Once the bed is prepared, I may look to getting fancier in subsequent years.

I've read a bit about no-till methods for building a bed, but only snippets here and there. I would welcome your suggestions, or pointers toward other links on Tomatoville.

Thanks in advance!

[mdvpc]

Kathy

When we moved to San Antonio, I put raised beds into our house. I had always gardened in containers, and was very comfortable doing so. This fall, I have some trial tomatoes as well as peas and beans. I have a fertigation system built into my drips, so that is how I fertilize.

I have to tell you, its a joy gardening like this! Its much less work.

One tip I can give you-the media that you are going to put into the beds will be there a long time, and you need to make sure you don't get any with residual herbicide. There are threads here with horror stories about residual herbicide media going into raised beds and all the tomatoes dying.

I was lucky here in San Antonio-one of our members had pointed me towards a source of composted media. I went there, got them to give me a sample of what I was thinking about using, then did the pea test-basically, you plant peas in the media and see if they live-I did that, they were fine, and purchased the media. My tomato plants are doing fine.

[Redbaron]

Originally Posted by KathyDC

I've read a bit about no-till methods for building a bed, but only snippets here and there. I would welcome your suggestions, or pointers toward other links on Tomatoville.

Thanks in advance!

The Red Baron Project

[kurt]

One of the advantages of a raised bed is access around it,so at 10ft a center walkway/stepping stones might be needed.
If using a wood frame some failures in my past I can post here.

1.Coat the interior and bottom of wood member with a thick layer of roofing spreadable mix to prevent wet rot and if possible use pressure treated wood(coated also).
2.On the 4 corners of bed use right (90 degree)metal angles(placed inside) with stainless steel thru nut and bolts to keep them secure from opening up over the years.Aluminum angles(coated also) will last longer in the soil than iron based metals.
3.On the long sides of bed every 2 foot on the inside some good stakes driven into ground to prevent bellying from soil "out" pressuring.
4.Solarization of area if possible for root knot nematode control "if present".
5.Weed block material laid down after a check for any large roots from adjacent trees if any.


6.One day later,DO NOT FORGET LAYOUT OF BED VERSUS HEIGHT OF GIVEN PLANTS AND POSITIONING OF SUN TRAVEL OVER BED DURING DAY/SEASON DURATION.

[Worth1]

What is the total area you have to work with, and is it on the side of the house or in the back.
How far is your house from the property line front and side?

The reason is I have an idea for raised beds that you just might like.

Worth

[KathyDC]

If I wanted, I could probably make it about 30x20. But I don't think I'll use that much space. Maybe half that, for right now. But one note, I'm not planning on making raised beds, I think I may have been confusing in my first post- - I just meant, I want to convert a part of my yard into a planting space, as opposed to the grass/weeds it is right now.

[Misfit]

Here's a link to a thread of a bed I started last May. It's doing quite nicely btw. I took a lot of tips from RedBaron, so many kudos to him.

http://tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=33787

Best of luck!

-Jimmy

[habitat_gardener]

Even if you're not using raised beds, you can mound the soil in the center of the beds and dig permanent walking paths. This keeps the soil fluffier (so it does not get compacted by being walked on) and enables you to use defined paths (mulched or whatever -- also helps avoid walking in mud). You'd then add amendments or compost only to the garden beds, not the path area. And you could lay down cardboard or other weed-blocking material in the paths, covered with mulch.

About 4-5 ft. wide is optimal, which is the amount you can reach across from 2 sides. If you can only access one side of the bed, then 3 ft. max. width. Beds can be any length. It does help to have a path or at least a steppingstone in the middle of a very long bed, although it's a tradeoff vs. planting space.

I've often tried to optimize planting space at community gardens at the expense of path space, and by the middle of the season, I've often wished that I'd planned the space better. The plants in the center of the jungle get neglected or are very difficult to pick and tend.

[Worth1]

If you border the growing ares and put in stone or paver walkways you will eventually end up with raised beds whether you like it or not.
Here is an Idea It is 16 long and 11 wide.
Everything is in a one foot grid for your convenience.
The big circles are tomatoes the medium peppers and the small circles are what ever you would like
The middle is paver stones or gravel.
I would go with the 1 square foot paver stones they will cost about $100 and be well worth it.
Besides they will help you lay out the garden and look fantastic.

With this method and layout you will be able to move around reach everything and have plenty of room to grow your crop.

You asked for ideas so here is mine.


Square Foot Garden 2.jpg

[Barbee]

Originally Posted by KathyDC

Hello!

For the past two years, I've been growing my tomatoes in containers, because I don't have a bed laid out or prepared. Next spring, I'd like to do away with the containers and put in a bed. It will be used almost exclusively for tomatoes, but I may sneak in a pumpkin or eggplant here and there. It will probably be about 16'x10' but the dimensions I haven't quite decided on yet. It may end up being larger.

The way my yard is arranged, and the closeness of my house to other houses, will preclude using much (any) equipment. Getting a tiller back there may be possible, but could also be problematic. However I get it done, if I'm going to do it myself I won't be able to use much in the way of large equipment.

In terms of soil and amendments, I'd like to keep it as simple as possible. Once the bed is prepared, I may look to getting fancier in subsequent years.

I've read a bit about no-till methods for building a bed, but only snippets here and there. I would welcome your suggestions, or pointers toward other links on Tomatoville.

Thanks in advance!

OK so basically you need to kill the grass/weeds and lay out the bed this fall. Since you don't have access to using equipment, sections of newspaper with a mulch on top should do the trick. Clear plastic would work, too, but you'd have to remove that in spring and do the newspaper/mulch thing anyway.

http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/spec...om-scratch.htm

http://peterboroughgardens.ca/mg_art...Bed-Dianne.htm

[luigiwu]

I just want to put this out there because I LOVE how this lady did her raised beds in her garden. The pavers seems to be super level - I have no idea how she managed it all!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZofD9hMK3E

[Worth1]

Here is another idea on what you can do with your space.
The Keyhole Salsa Garden.

Keyhole Salsa Garden 2.jpg

[creister]

Kurt,

On your third point, you put stakes on the soil side of your board, or against the outside side of the board? When using the 90 angles on the corners, do you just buy nuts and bolts and not use the screws that come with the angles? If so, would you advise using a lock washer with it?

Thanks for the tips,
Curt

[KathyDC]

Well I jumped in and did one of what will probably be four rows in this section of ground. (I will probably eventually have around 6-7 of these, with room for walking in between).

This is a layer of cardboard -> a layer of growing medium -> a layer of leaf clippings.

Building this one row took all the material I had, so I'm going to have to go grab a few bags of compost and I guess probably beg for other peoples' leaves for the top dressing on the next one. That'll have to wait for another weekend though.

I just wanted to let everybody know how my first stab at it went. Now I need to create some walkways in between -- I guess that'll just be cardboard and mulch. I might be able to get some cheap pavers, but I don't know how that'd go over. Plenty of time for that though, these beds obviously won't get used until spring.

I'll probably also go get some of that hard plastic to line the row and keep the grass out/dirt in.

Just thought I'd send out an update! Thank you for all your help!

Kathy

[kurt]

Originally Posted by creister

Kurt,

On your third point, you put stakes on the soil side of your board, or against the outside side of the board? When using the 90 angles on the corners, do you just buy nuts and bolts and not use the screws that come with the angles? If so, would you advise using a lock washer with it?

Thanks for the tips,
Curt

Outside or inside as long as a positive fasteners(thru Stainless Steel nut ,bolt)is used.Lock washers are usually designed for a vibration,movement(axles,wheels etc.)If going inside be sure to coat the stakes that are below grade.Since I live in Fl aluminum and stainless steel is common practice.Plus you can always reuse SS over again.Outside stakes can become a minimal eyesore and a possible trip hazard.A regular fender washer underneath the outside bolt will stop the bolt head from gouging into the wood,a lock washer can be used to stop the "double turn"when tightening the said components.I always miter the wood 45% to cover the open grain,I always glue the miter ends with that "Gorrilla Glue"Caution do not get the G-glue on hands it will take a long time to remove.