New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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March 19, 2007 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Long Beach, Calif
Posts: 144
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March 19, 2007 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 162
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Plus, you can put it right where you need it...it stays there, and you don't have to un-necessarily have to wet the seed mix or anything else...(I obsess about too much moisture too)
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March 19, 2007 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NJ Bayshore
Posts: 3,848
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lol Dcarch ~ too funny
Tom
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My green thumb came only as a result of the mistakes I made while learning to see things from the plant's point of view. ~ H. Fred Ale |
March 20, 2007 | #19 |
Cross Hemisphere Dwarf Project™ Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: New South Wales, Australia
Posts: 3,094
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The spit enzymes probably work on weakening the coat as well as giving it some moisture
PP
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March 20, 2007 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: UK.
Posts: 960
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I used to use spit, but these days I have found that if you leave them for about ten days for the seed leaves to grow a bit out of the husk,if its still stuck I just nip off the last eighth of an inch of the tip complete with seed husk and then spread the two leaves apart, and they grow quite normaly after that.
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March 20, 2007 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NJ Bayshore
Posts: 3,848
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After all this talk and no stuck on helmets, I got one this morning !
Time for the old "spit" trick ~ Tom
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My green thumb came only as a result of the mistakes I made while learning to see things from the plant's point of view. ~ H. Fred Ale |
March 26, 2007 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: UK.
Posts: 960
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I have tried the old spit trick, which seems to work in some cases.
But if you get a bit of green leaf showing and the seed husk just stuck on the end, I find its quicker just to nip off the tip near the seed husk and spread out the two cotyledons leaves and they soon recover and carry on growing normaly. Last edited by michael johnson; March 26, 2007 at 05:29 AM. |
March 28, 2007 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Kansas, zone 5
Posts: 524
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Last year I had quite a few sticking seed coats for some reason. After asking here, I also used the "spit" method and it worked like a charm. It is my hypothesis that I removed the dome on my seedling tray quite early to accomodate a row of seeds that came up super fast. While the medium stayed moist enough for the others to germinate, it was drier than it normally would have been and the seeds didn't want to let go.
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March 29, 2007 | #24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Zone 10b
Posts: 67
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oh man i just love stuck seed coats. i used the spit technique and got this little v shaped cuticle thingy that basically hooked into the coat and let me pull the leaves gently out. However, unless the seeds are really old I try not to do this anymore since they generally get a little ripped from me doing this and eventually they come out on their own just fine. But I must say pulling them out is soooo fun that sometimes it is kind of hard to resist.
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March 29, 2007 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: UK.
Posts: 960
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I have often wondered- if one mixed up some of that whetting agent that you can buy for mixing in compost, or the gel they sell for the same thing, that keeps things moist and retains the water etc, just enough in a small egg cup size container, and used this on the stuck helmets as it would keep them moist for longer, or even a thick mix of just plain old fairy washing up liquid might also dothe trick-its worth the time to experiment with.
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