Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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June 21, 2016 | #31 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2008
Location: zone 5 Colorado
Posts: 942
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Quote:
Each to his own, mostly determined by weather/climate. |
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June 21, 2016 | #32 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 6a - NE Tennessee
Posts: 4,538
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Whoa, I didn't mean to strike nerves on this subject. I don't want anyone to think that I am being critical of their methods. I am only explaining that I choose to approach it differently and what I think is more natural. To me, folks who prune heavily are butchering the plant to get the "cut" they want. Same as a steak. I just can't help thinking about all those wounds that can invite in diseases, and my methods are my way of minimizing that.
Well, let's see. In south Alabama, you could prune to allow for ventilation to reduce disease, or we could also set up some fans to blow thru the tomato patch and accomplish the same thing without pruning. My goal is to allow the plant to have all its tools and all its capabilities to deliver to me the truest taste it can. Otherwise, would I reality know just how good or not so good a variety tastes this year. Did the plant assign a certain leaf stem to making one of its important taste components? If it did, and that stem got pruned off, then how would one know how the taste was supposed to be? Could it be that pruning takes away a certain percentage of the flavor makers within the plant? Could having a little bit of fungus add to the quality of the taste? These are things that I wonder about from time to time. So, no offense was meant to anyone and I hope none was taken.
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Ted ________________________ Owner & Sole Operator Of The Muddy Bucket Farm and Tomato Ranch |
June 21, 2016 | #33 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: SC & NC
Posts: 258
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I pinch suckers the first couple weeks after transplanting in the garden. Want to insure all energy is concentrated establishing the roots and developing stem. After a max of three weeks, it is "katie bar the door" as I let them run. My method has worked for me for many years.
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June 21, 2016 | #34 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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Those poor butchers are getting a bad name. Worth |
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June 21, 2016 | #35 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Illinois
Posts: 162
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I am in the non-pruners camp, and only prune bottom growth to prevent rain splashing dirt on the leaves that may cause fungal issues. I certainly don't judge anyone who does prune. I mean it's their plants, therefore their choice. But I have a serious query for all who prune heavily. How do you not get sunscald and green shoulders from removing the shade caused by the heavy leaf cover? Seriously, I would like some answers on that issue, because back when I had to prune heavily because of fungal disease, I had a major a problem with sunscald and green shoulders. |
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June 21, 2016 | #36 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 1,710
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No worries.Ted, just having a little fun.
Grew up in NY so sarcasm comes a little too easy. Last edited by Nematode; June 21, 2016 at 05:13 PM. Reason: Because |
June 21, 2016 | #37 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 1,710
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Next year I may reduce stem density to 6sq ft/plant. Its hydroponic so sunlight is the limiting input on production. |
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June 21, 2016 | #38 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 6a - NE Tennessee
Posts: 4,538
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Nematode, my rows are at least 5 feet apart and the tomatoes are 4 feet apart in the rows. Now, with the rugose foliage dwarf types, I have the rows 4 feet apart and the plants 30 inches apart.
An 18 gallon container will get two indeterminates or three compact bushy types. But they get lots of TLC and extra water and ferts. I also do some micros from time to time. This year, I'll have seed for one called "Peardrop". Got the first blooms on the 18" plants and waiting for fruit now. Now that I know you are hydroponic, I'll make allowances for your approach to all this stuff.
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Ted ________________________ Owner & Sole Operator Of The Muddy Bucket Farm and Tomato Ranch |
June 21, 2016 | #39 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Wasilla Alaska
Posts: 2,010
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I don't think anyone was offended, I sure hope not, because the good part is obvious, there is more than one way to grow tomatoes.
Yes, I am a butcher, I crew cut for lack of a better definition. I do it because I can grow more plants in any given space, I can also manage them much better, that includes checking for disease, and also lowering them when they get to tall to work with. I also keep production continuous for 6 months, and in the end the vines are about 20 feet. Now here is what we strive for, absorb this, leaf, leaf, leaf, truss, leaf, leaf, leaf, truss, for 20 feet, or whatever we get out of the plants. We also prune off the tiny tomatoes at the ends of the truss, and keep leaves pruned off up to the bottom of a truss, this makes the fruit ripen faster. Now this is fact, at least from side by side observation, taste is unchanged, at least when 14-17 sets of leaves remain, which is my goal, others I know prune more strict, but they are confused. LOL I have other tomato friends that do not prune, they also have tomatoes, my own Dad does not prune, we are one big happy tomato family too However, this is part of my greenhouse business, I sell tomatoes, and I am always trying to increase production, or find an easier way to manage my plants, which brought me to look and see how I could do that. Now I am going to try the spools, and guide wire trick, it was explained, but I was not ready to listen, well after lowering as many plants as I do, I am going to try it now. My horticulture friend just grins, he is patient with my stubborn self. At any rate, I hope my lines are thought provoking, as are the other growers who comment on their method. We should be able to have a vigorous debate/ discussion, and smile, and maybe each of us can learn a bit too, I sure do. This is such a wonderful website to visit, to make friends on, to share, and to enjoy a super fruit from all of the varieties mentioned. Peace out my tomato brother and sisters. |
June 21, 2016 | #40 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Illinois
Posts: 162
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Quote:
Now I feel kinda dumb, LMAO But that's ok, I enjoy a good laugh at my own expense. |
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June 21, 2016 | #41 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 1,710
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Not dumb, lots of different ways to do it. When you get someone like me thats allergic to doing it just like everyone else, well its not always obvious. And yes you got it right.
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June 21, 2016 | #42 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,924
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This is a subject that comes up all the time " To Prune or Not To Prune"
The best I can answer is that it is a different gardening school. Some believe in letting the plant grow "Naturally". Others (me included) believe that a gardeners needs to take a pro active approach. "natural" often does not serve our purpose of growing things. Gardeneer |
June 21, 2016 | #43 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Illinois
Posts: 162
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I'll just leave this here: This is a good article that talks about both ways:
http://www.heirloom-organics.com/gui...mishpaste.html This is one of the varieties I'm growing this year. |
June 21, 2016 | #44 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2014
Location: illinois
Posts: 281
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Ted
I'm a bit of a lazy gardener, and agree with your approach. Plant, pluck and enjoy. |
June 22, 2016 | #45 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Illinois
Posts: 162
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Same here. My trellis system allows my plants to vine out as much as they want, holds them off the ground and allows good air circulation. So I just grow, pluck and eat little orbs of sheer heaven. Any pruning I do is the lower leaves, not the suckers. As the suckers grow out, they force the leaves downward, and I don't want them in the dirt. So off they go.
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