Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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June 23, 2016 | #61 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Diego-Tijuana
Posts: 2,598
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My plants are close together so I have to trim them. If necessary, they can overlap each other and protect against sunscald.
Container growing allows you to rearrange and minimize sunscald. |
June 23, 2016 | #62 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Czech republic
Posts: 2,546
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Quote:
Vladimír |
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June 23, 2016 | #63 | ||
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,924
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Quote:
I think loulac quoted your comment with regard to using pruners / shears. He wrote : Quote:
So I would not take loulac's comment in anyway to mean to criticize you. JMO Gardeneer |
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June 23, 2016 | #64 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: France
Posts: 554
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Thanks for showing my post in a correct light. Tville is a perfect field for comparing experiences, then every gardener is free to make his own opinion. Mrbig46 asked readers to give their opinions about using pruners/shears, I just gave mine without the slightest trace of any kind of criticism !
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June 23, 2016 | #65 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Illinois
Posts: 162
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I'll chime in here and say even though I'm not a pruner, I do have to remove bottom leaves from time to time, and I use a scissors, snip, snip. I always feel like Edward Scissorhands when I do it.
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June 23, 2016 | #66 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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June 24, 2016 | #67 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,924
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Quote:
Vladimir I dont understand the question. Worth[/QUOTE] Well, as I understand it, Vladimir said (that) he only uses shears (pruner) to prune fruit trees NOT tomato plants.... waht about you ? I dont have fruit trees and I DON"T use pruner on tomato plants that much either. I use a cheap serrated scissors that I keep in the garden for general use. Gardeneer |
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June 24, 2016 | #68 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: SC Ohio(proctorville)
Posts: 192
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True that you can snap a sucker once and then 180 degrees the other way and get a clean break until they are too tough. Then I use a hand tool. I sucker a lot but still wind up with 3-5 stems on half or more of my 90 plants. I think I get bigger fruit but fewer of them by pruning. With that many plants I don't need 30-50 from each one. I mostly just give them away by the bag full. Good community spirit. Family gets a small percentage.
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June 24, 2016 | #69 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,924
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Quote:
I also never use pruner or any hand tool to remove sucker. Snapping does it when done on time. I use scissors to prune the lower leaf branches. Gardeneer |
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November 14, 2016 | #70 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: North Florida
Posts: 7
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Thank goodness for this thread. It was wonderful to see both sides of the coin. I rarely grow (in my 2 years of gardening lol) indeterminate plants so this helped immensely.
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December 10, 2016 | #71 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,924
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This thread is at its 5th page. I don't remember if I have said How I do it and what is my opinion on pruning or NOT pruning.
Pruning depends on ones's gardening style and how tomato plants are supported. If you grow, for example, by stringing and layering you have to prune into a single stem and also need to prune all the leave branches below the lowest truss. Bout if you use big sturdy case and the plants are spaced generously then you can forget about pruning. Maybe except for the very lower leaf branches that are touching the soil or are to close to it and you want some air flow under the plant. Another NO pruning would be if you let your plant sprawl. I have used stakes and small cage that I had to prune to reduce number of stems and foliage. So generally if you allocate a lot of space/ground for your plants then you can opt no pruning or very little pruning. No pruning is much convenient and requires less work as opposed to heavy regular pruning. This is no lazy gardener's method.
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Gardeneer Happy Gardening ! |
December 10, 2016 | #72 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Tomato Cornhole
Posts: 2,550
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I'm doing a new method of pruning now on an Owen's Purple plant in a container/self watering bucket I made. It might not be new but this is the 1st time I tried it. I let the plant grow with 2 main shoots then I let the sucker grow and make flower buds and I top that sucker. I'm letting the main shoot grow but all the others are topped after bud development. The plant is about 4' tall and today I counted 11 clusters of buds and the lower cluster have small fruit forming. I hope that made sense.
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December 13, 2016 | #73 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Quote:
The longer I have gardened in the oppressive heat and humidity of the deep south the more sure I am of the benefits of pruning for long term production. For maximum production in a short time like for canning then limited pruning is much more sensible even down here. Actually pruning heavily reduces the amount of work and time I have to spend tending my plants. A large unpruned plant has to be supported here in the deep south because letting them sprawl is a disaster with all our pests and diseases. Even when well supported it is only a matter of time before an unpruned plant becomes fatally diseased and or overwhelmed by pests. In areas with less disease and pest pressure I am sure pruning heavily would be needed far less. If you want sustained production you have to keep the plant healthy. If you want good sustained production late into the season you need to keep plants sprayed with fungicides down here and a well pruned plant is so much easier to spray. Another benefit of pruning is that even though you have less clusters of blooms you get a much better percentage of fruit set with a pruned plant than an unpruned one especially once it gets hot. It seems to me every year gets easier to maintain the plants the more I prune them and my workload has decreased. It is far easier for me to spend a little time doing a bit of pruning than to spend hours and hours trying to support multiple stems and caring for disease ridden plants. Since I have gone to the drop line method and single stem only the amount of actual labor involved in caring for and maintaining my plants during the growing season has dropped considerably; but the downside is it takes more work initially in the cool weather of spring to get it all set up before planting. Bill |
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December 13, 2016 | #74 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Posts: 10
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Bill,
Where are you in the "Deep South"? I'm near Tuscaloosa Alabama. |
December 13, 2016 | #75 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Tomato Cornhole
Posts: 2,550
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I know what you mean Bill. I've been stringing plants in the GH for the last 3 years and I tried it last year in a RB but I just let the plant grow and didn't prune hard so I had a jungle.
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